Peak Bagging Rainier: 8/9-12/2023

I took advantage of continuing decent weather to bag some more peaks on the Rainier 100 list, parking my van in the RV lot at Crystal Mountain and staging out of there. On Wednesday morning (8/9/23) I drove to the turnoff on Crystal Mountain Blvd to access the Norse Peak trail. This is a pleasant trail with views that open up as one climbs into the Norse Peak fire zone (2017). Highlights: talking to 3 immature elk and being photo bombed by a hummingbird. As I approached the summit there was a stiff wind but pleasant nonetheless. I wandered the flat summit area for a bit, then ran back down to the van. I checked in at the RV lot at 6 PM and set up shop...hot shower, snacks, meal etc. There were only 3 RVs in the lot so it was a quiet night. Stats: 10.5 miles/3100'

Top of Chair 6 and Forest Queen lodge from Silver King Peak (6998’)

Day 2 (8/10/23): Silver King (6998') The surrounding peaks were socked in when I awoke so I lounged for a bit that morning hoping for some clearing as the day progressed. Twice I had a mind to tag Silver King when I was skiing with a buddy, but each time there was a low cloud deck with no views from the Peak. It's a bit of a slog to get over there schlepping skis so didn't happen. On this day I took the Silver Creek trail to Elizabeth Lake, then proceeded to scramble up to the South Ridge to gain the summit. I looked down Brain Damage ski run, thinking you gotta have brain damage to board or ski that, or just mad skills. I'm lacking in at least one department there. After watching 2 C-17s go by on a low level, I transited the ridge towards Campbell Basin and descended to the lodge, hiking the road and some trails back to the van. Stats: 9.5 miles/3300'

Crystal Lake and Rainier from the summit of Three Way Peak (6796’)

Day 3 (8/11/23): Three Way Peak (6796') To access Three Way from Crystal, I once again took the Silver Creek Trail to a connector to the PCT, then proceeded south on the PCT to Three Way. Since the PCT transits the base of Three Way, anytime I looked up to see where the col was it all just looked the same...steep meadow to rock ridges. After contemplating a bit, I just started up below the summit, angling right as I went via appropriate crappy gullies until I intersected the "right" way. A short jaunt to the summit block with an airy step or two had me communing with the resident insects, which always seem to populate these summits. When I started the descent, I was thinking I would take the "usual" way down to the col, but although I transited the flattish sandy area described, the way off wasn't real clear...steep rock faces. So once again I committed to a crappy gully that eventually deposited me on the meadow above the PCT. Once again I trotted the entire way back (on excellent trail) to my van, and once again I took a hot shower, poured a glass of wine, made some munchies, watched a movie, made dinner, read a little and bedded down. Love that thing. Stats: 10 miles/2900'

Mt Rainier from the summit of Chinook Peak (6904’)

Day 4 (8/12/23): Chinook Peak (6904')/Crystal Peak (6595’) As this was a Saturday, I got up early and packed up the van to get to the Crystal Peak trailhead before the madhouse was in full swing. No problem getting a spot but I was surprised at the amount of traffic on 410 at 7:30 AM. I had breakfast and coffee and got on the trail around 8 AM and enjoyed solitude on the Crystal Peak trail, hopping off at the first switchback for Chinook. The sloping meadow area was not steep, in fact very pleasant, and I gained the ridge to Chinook to the right of peak 6706'. Chinook's description was "easy scramble", so I knew I was off on a class 3 section. Par for course for me it seems. I descended and contoured around the base some more until an obvious way presented itself. Despite the intimidating rocky pillars, the way up was indeed easy and I spent some time here (what, no bugs?) lounging and trying to ID peaks in the area. I could see the top of Chair 6 glinting in the sun, with Three Way and Silver King in view. The way back to the trail was gentle with huge views to the mountain with every step. The last time I was on Crystal Peak it was snowing so I thought I'd go take another look to see the views, the best of which is on the trail below the peak...an expansive 180 vista with the mountain in the middle; superb! As expected, there were a few people on the summit and I ran into increasing numbers of hikers as I ran back down to the completely packed parking area. Somehow I managed to back onto 410 and made my escape. Stats: 11 miles/4400'

Three Way Peak (6796’) from the summit of Chinook Peak (6904’)

Descending on the Crystal Peak trail

Mt. Wow (6040')

Finally...this was a tough one for me. In 2019 I attempted it early November from the West Side Road, lost my Whippet in some dense brush schwacking to reach the upper meadows, and found fresh snow on the steep meadows. I turned back there as the days were short and finding that Lake Allen "trail" in the dark was not appealing. I made another half hearted attempt with a buddy the next year but he had concerns so we turned back. And a few weeks ago I scouted the route from the Boundary Trail (Nisqually entrance) and turned around below the ridge because of snow. I opted for the WSR/Lake Allen approach again as I was at least familiar with the difficulties involved.

The upper meadows below the Mt. Wow ridge

This is an unrelenting climb...6.7 miles RT with 5000' of elevation gain/loss, at least according to my track on Strava. This time I was able to proceed up the upper meadows (mtn goat sighting) and easily gain the ridge to Wow. As I crested and Rainier came into view, the words that escaped my mouth were "Holy Crap!" The mountain is massive from this vantage point and you can gaze down on the course of Tahoma Creek from its origins. After a break on the summit (6040') I reluctantly left this glorious perch and steeled myself for the descent. The Lake Allen trail is in poor shape and is easily lost/reacquired in the descent. I found myself on my backside a few times sliding down the hill and I won't repeat the epithets that spewed forth from my pie hole. When I finally regained my van on the road I felt completely worked, but very glad not to have to go up there again. This was #67 on my Rainier 100 list. The next day I recovered by biking the West Side Road and Paradise from Cougar Rock, a delightful and zen like day for 60 miles and 6600' of no sidehilling on my MTB pedals.

Mt. Adams to the south

Mt. Wow ridge

Florence Peak (5508')

Well worn path at the beginning of the hike on the Rainforest Loop

The shorter drive to the Carbon River entrance at Mt. Rainier National Park enticed me to tag Florence Peak (5501’) as it is one of the easier peaks to access and has a way trail all the way along Alki Crest, making travel pleasant. The Boundary Trail starts right at the Carbon River entrance, and the park is maintaining at least the first section to the creek crossing and falls. Irish Creek was running fast and I dropped a bit below to cross, but it was still a bit dicey on the slippery scale. On the way up the trail I saw a well used log that would be a much better alternative on the way back.

The great thing about Florence is that the Boundary Trail takes you right to the saddle, and a social trail continues up Alki Crest right to the false summit of Florence; no ‘schwacking at all beyond stepping around or over a fallen tree. An easy scramble to the summit bloc proper allows 360 degree views. Although somewhat cloudy, the main mass of Rainier was visible as one peered at it across the ridge housing Tolmie Peak fire lookout and, beyond that, Observation and Echo Rocks. A big plus was that it was still early enough in the season (May 26) that there were no bugs to deal with. I lingered for a while, got my drink and snack on, took some pics and 360 video, then retraced the path. There was an aborted attempt to access Sweet Peak but I found myself in gawdawful slide alder and devils club, sometimes over blowdown, snow and mossy rocks. I figured I had made some poor navigation decisions and determined that best course of action was to make my way back to the trail and leave Sweet Peak for another day.

Irish Creek waterfall on the Carbon River Boundary Trail

Florence was my first peak of 2023 and is number 66 on my 100 list. With luck, I may be able to top out on 10 more peaks this season amidst a very busy summer and fall. Happy Hiking and be safe out there!

Florence Peak summit area, Mt. Rainier National Park

Willis Wall 2020 Year In Review

2020, the year of COVID. Lots of changes in the Willis Wall World….retirement, selling our house, purchase of a Class B RV a few years ahead of schedule, and temporarily residing in Colorado. I traveled and lived full time in the RV for 3 months, traveling from Washington to California (spending two weeks hiking with my daughter), then back to Washington. While back in my home state I spent some time in the Olympics but the majority of my hiking was in Mt. Rainier National Park; peak bagging, hiking the Northern Loop Trail and my 32nd time around the 93 mile Wonderland Trail. I departed at the end of October and made my way to Colorado to rejoin my wife, stopping in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. From 9,000 miles of driving, 1000 miles of foot travel and over 174,000 feet of climbing come snippets packed into a 6 minute video. My thanks to my son and my friends who allowed me to spend a few nights in their driveways during this time. Please enjoy, and stay safe!

Mt. Rainier NP: Tamanos Mountain (6790') 10/04/2020

I woke at 3:30 to tend to old man matters. Soon after crawling back into bed, I heard "rustle scritch scritch rustle." We all know what that means; a mouse had found its way into my castle. My day pack was up between the front seats and it still had a bag of snacks in it. Lights on, shoe in hand, I saw the little b@stard scurry under the drivers seat. I opened the door and slammed the floor with a shoe, trying to force him outside. I still don't know if it worked, but I went back to sleep with the lights on and awoke to my 6 AM alarm. The White River overnight parking lot was still pretty full, being a Sunday morning with this incredible weather. I wanted to get to the Owyhigh Lakes trailhead early to have a parking spot. I needn't have worried. I was the only one there when I left, and the only one there when I arrived back from the hike. I checked my container of food under the bed for evidence of mouse chewing but found none, so I got to work cooking up a huge breakfast to last me the day.

With my earliest start since doing the Wonderland, I set off at 7:23 AM to Owyhigh Lakes and soon found the way trail that would lead me to the saddle for Tamanos. I had been here before so knew the view that awaited me, climbing the golden meadow as Rainier crowned and arose in the distance. What a view, with Goat Island Mountain, Summerland, the Sarvant glacier with Banshee and the Cowlitz Chimneys stealing the show below The Rock. I also had a clear view to Whitman Crest and the ski route I did last year. As impressive as the saddle view was, I was hoping for a topper on Tamanos so set off in that direction. There is a nice clear path most of the way to the top, skirting the rocky outcroppings on the left when necessary. Even with little exposure I felt a little giddy transiting the rocks to the summit. I never have enjoyed heights, but I sure enjoy the views! And in keeping with what is now tradition, I FaceTimed my daughter and shared the views with her, this being another 4 bar summit. The skies were severe clear, the breeze was light and cool, the body was tuned to all the sensory input (big bird caws and howling coyotes!). A day in the mountains doesn't get any better than this. The descent was just as enjoyable and when I arrived at the saddle again, I laid in the grass for 30 minutes munching on peanut butter M&Ms and double stuff Oreo cookies, all the while taking in the vast expanse before me. I had already decided on a single peak, putting Barrier aside...I needed to get back to civilization and get some mouse traps, just in case. Stats: 11 miles/3400'

Mt. Rainier towers above Summerland from the summit of Tamanos Mountain (6790’)

Fall is upon us below Tamanos Mountain, Mt. Rainier NP

Owyhigh Lakes with Governors Ridge, Mt. Rainier NP

The weather, it be a changin’ (October 4th, 2020)

Mt. Rainier NP: Tahtlum Peak (6567') 10/03/20

After a recovery day in Packwood on Friday, I went back into the thick of weekend traffic in beautiful weather with a trip up 123 to Chinook Pass. I really only had one peak in mind, that being Tahtlum, with Seymour (6337’) as a maybe. My feet were still slightly off kilter, despite soaking them in hot soapy water for 30 minutes the day before. I found a nice spot to park and headed south on the PCT. Although I use a guidebook for these peaks, the descriptions are sometimes vague….”at 5900’ head left for Tahtlum Peak.” It’s probably a good thing, one must make decisions and discover their own way sometimes. That wasn’t really necessary for this peak, as a climbers trail made the navigation quite easy. If I can use poles all the way to the summit then the way isn’t so bad, and Tahtlum fit the bill. I made my way over two bumps and started the ridge upwards. If the trail disappeared it was soon rediscovered by scouting best terrain and using one’s noggin. I was quite pleased to pop up on the summit and find a van sized level spot with astounding 360 degree views, unimpeded by trees. Speaking of van, I was able to see my white beauty glistening in the sun down at Chinook Pass. Soak up them rays, Mr. Solar, gimme dat energy! I rotated constantly….east to Rainier, north following highway 410 as it arrowed towards Yakima, south to Mt. Adams and Goat Rocks….hey look, what a nice view of Dewey Lake! Let’s turn off airplane mode and see if there’s any coverage…..4 bars! Time to FaceTime my wife and my daughter and show them the views. It’s a thing for us now. I sat on the pointy rocks and had a snack, taking in the views and the soft breeze. I studied Seymour and wondered if I could fit it in, so departed and made my way back from whence I came. I turned left (south) on the PCT and thought I might at least check out the way trail to Seymour. After some distance but before Dewey Lake, I spied a faint path that seemed like the right place and launched into the unknown. Although I lost it a few times I soon found it again, and I continued on it for a while until I came to a large blowdown. By now it was 1:30 and I hadn’t even come to a place to head up to the Dewey-Seymour saddle. I just didn’t want to go that late and push it, so I retraced my steps back to the PCT and regained my mobile abode at 2:30. There were (as could be expected) throngs of people on the way back. However, I had lots of alone time when off the main course so didn’t mind. I had a sudden thought to check out Naches Peak, very close to where I parked. Then I read the description….”difficult scramble, short, very exposed section near the top.” Not today. I drove down to the White River entrance and parked in the overnight lot at the campground, which officially closed last weekend on September 27th. One thing about a van that is under 20 feet….I can fit in regular parking spaces. Here I sit, typing this after processing photos and video with a clean body and full belly. What should I do tomorrow? Stats: 8 miles/2600’

Dewey Lake from Tahtlum summit, Mt. Rainier NP

Mt. Adams and Goat Rocks looking south from Tahtlum summit

Mt. Rainier NP: Pinnacle (attempt)/Plummer/Denman Peaks 9/29/20

I guess I’ve been too lazy or occupied to get into my Pany G9 innards and really learn how to take star shots. I made some unsuccessful attempts, including today getting up at 4 AM and heading to Reflection Lakes to try and capture the Aurora and some stars, but I haven’t got the combo right. I need to get on it, this camera should take pretty good shots, it’s my ignorance that’s getting in the way.

I was still feeling thrashed from the 3 peaker the day before, so moved just up the road to the Pinnacle Peak trail head and slept until 8. Thankfully this approach is much shorter (1.3 miles) with much less elevation gain to the saddle (1200’) than the Eagle Peak trail. I put on my helmet and immediately turned left for Pinnacle Peak. In a nutshell, I varied from the plan which cost me the peak. As I ascended it seemed a bit more than a “moderate scramble” and I was concerned I was off route. Despite no evidence, I thought maybe a contour around the base and ascent up the opposite ridge might be the way to go. It wasn’t. That area is a series of thin ledges with minimal good rock to hold onto, so I turned around carefully and made my way back to the pinnacle where I had broken off. Thoughts of getting banged up in a sliding fall so early into retirement danced in my mind. I regained my prior position and looked up the ridge and started to go on, but something in my gut said to bag it. I did not relish the careful down climbing that would be needed from the top, and the time I spent on the ledges taxed my mental reserves. So, for what may be an easy scramble for some people, on this day twasn’t so easy for me. 100 feet below the summit, I made my way back to the saddle.

Looking south from the Tatoosh range, Mt. Rainier NP

The next two climbs were described as easy, and a possible fourth (Lane) was described as difficult, with a long steep gully to ascend. I put Lane aside and did the easy trail up to Plummer (6370’), sporting yet another in your face view of the mountain, then descended on a way trail to access Denman (6006’). Lots of people do Plummer but Denman was not on their list. Denman was a straight forward scramble with poles with a broad summit and….another fantastic view of the mountain, also looking across to Paradise with a gleaming full parking lot. People were really taking advantage of this weather. Although the attempt at Pinnacle had taxed me a bit, generally this day was just laid back and serene, with perfect weather and views in both directions to the Tatoosh peaks, including the ones I had climbed the day before. I regained the van and drove around the mountain, using 123 and 410, which is still closed from the fire 33 miles down the road from the turnoff to the White River entrance. Onward to Sunrise.

Mountain details from Denman Peak (6006’), Mt. Rainier NP

Pinnacle Peak (6562’), Mt. Rainier NP

Sleepy Pika on the Pinnacle Peak trail, Mt. Rainier NP

Wahpenayo, Chutla and Eagle Peaks, Mt. Rainier NP

Mt. Rainier NP: Wahpenayo/Chutla/Eagle Peaks 9/28/20

On Sunday, Sep 27, I drove to Mt. Rainier National Park with a peak bagging plan to take advantage of a superb weather forecast. The first part of the plan was to camp at Cougar Rock again for 2 nights, as I had a permit in hand for the Tyee Peak cross country zone on the night of Sep 30th. That trip will involve most of the Northern Loop Trail, but I needed to be in place at Sunrise on the night of the 29th to get a decent start. Last time I checked Highway 410 was still closed, so on this first day of good weather I could do the short drive to Longmire and park at the Eagle Peak trail head. After breakfast and a good night’s sleep, I hit the trail at 8:17 AM. The Eagle Peak trail is fine, gaining 3200’ without undue stress. However, I broke off the trail at 5000’ and proceeded cross country to the Wahpenayo-Chutla saddle. This off trail stuff is slow going but I picked up a faint boot track off and on which deposited me at the saddle. Lots of huffing and puffing on the steep parts. The description of Wahpenayo (6231’) rates it a moderate scramble with an exposed section but I found it straight forward. The views on the ridge were incredible, with Rainier in your face with a distinct new snow line and the Tatoosh range to the east. Mt Adams and St. Helens were also vying for attention. I spent a short time on the summit, hoping there would be a way to continue from the saddle to Chutla, but it was too cliffy. I descended the way I came and contoured below the cliffs, eventually making my way up a steep meadow. Huff and puff. I was guessing where I could attain the saddle but lucky me, I intercepted the boot path for Chutla and climbed this steepish bit to the saddle. Chutla (6000’) is an easy walk from the saddle but I was starting to get tired from all the steep work. For shitz and grins I took my phone off airplane mode on the summit and voila….4 bars! I called my wife, texted some photos and FaceTimed my daughter. Luckily she picked up at work so I was able to show her the 360 views from the summit. This is the 3rd time I’ve been able to connect with her on a hike, it’s getting to be a thing. So again, no direct route to the Eagle/Chutla saddle so I went back down and continued on the way trail to the saddle.

Now I was hot, thirsty and feeling a little worked. I took a break in the shade and made myself steel up for Eagle, which looked daunting. From the description there was supposed to be an exposed step close to the summit, but I guess I followed the boot path to a ledge lower down, described as somewhat exposed but straight forward scrambling. This proved to be true, my trousers were still empty and after carefully negotiating the ledge the trail led easily to the summit. Yet another in your face view of Rainier, and from each of the summits I could see Paradise. On Eagle (5958’), the Nisqually bridge was also in view. After decades of doing the Muir snowfield and looking at the rugged Tatoosh range on the descent, it was quite satisfying to look back from over here. Now all I had to do was descend and down climb those sections, which I find more difficult than ascending. Once off the ledge I breathed a sigh of relief, especially when I made the saddle and the trail was now before me. I took off my helmet and unpacked my poles for the 3200’ descent, glad to be back in the woods and out of the sun as I had depleted my water and was feeling a little dry. But not dry enough to bother with filling up the bottle at the creek I crossed as I knew I would suck down a couple of Limoncello soda waters at the van. This was a hard day for me with all the scrambling but I figured if I was gonna be up there I needed to bag all three peaks. I write this after a hot shower, a large influx of liquids and a huge dinner with a frozen snickers ice cream bar for dessert. Tonight I’m going to head up to Reflection Lake and see if I can capture the Aurora. After a nap. Stats: 11.3 miles/6600’

Mt. Adams to the south of the Tatoosh Range, Mt. Rainier NP

Eagle Peak (5958’) from Chutla (6000’), Mt. Rainier NP

Mt. Rainier NP: Mt. Ararat (6010') 9/20/2020

I was lucky to get my Wonderland hike done (despite smoke) during good weather. It seems fall is falling quickly here in the Northwest, with lowering freezing and snow levels. As I type this, there is “a series of vigorous frontal systems, bringing wet and windy weather along with cooler temperatures.” However, a few days before the weather was more settled, albeit tempermental when it came to views. I spent 3 days at Mt. Rainier National Park keeping my legs in shape with various outings but in the process was able to tick off one more summit from the 100 list in the park; Mt. Ararat, at 6010’. I started later with the hopes that the skies would clear enough, or have enough holes, to afford me the view over Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground to the mountain beyond. Alas, despite fresh legs and easy navigation, when I arrived on the summit there was but a glimpse of the very tippy top of Rainier through a hole, and another one showcasing part of Iron or Copper…I couldn’t tell which. I stood there for twenty minutes, munching on my sandwich, hoping for that magic moment with the views open up and provide that “wow” factor. Instead, the clouds became thicker and Ararat was engulfed in fog, so I shrugged off my inopportune timing and descended through the soaking flora to rejoin the trail. My views may have been denied, but there’s no denying that a day in the forest, picking one’s way on best terrain to a waiting summit, successfully regaining the trail and trotting all the way down over 3000’ on quads that are getting hardened from nearly two months of hiking….that’s quite a day.

The tippy top of Mt. Rainier from the summit of Mt. Ararat (6010’), Mt. Rainier National Park

MRNP: Anvil Rock (9584')

Lineup for Paradise gate opening

Warmed up from my Cowlitz Rocks skin/ski a few days ago, I hit the snow with a full 1.5 liter bottle spiked with Tailwind this time, heading up the familiar Muir Snowfield to tag Anvil Rock (9584’). I know I took my daughter by here when she was 16 but figured I’d make it official. My scramble guide to Mt. Rainier suggested not trying to stand on the rock that marks the peak, instead tagging it with one’s pole. If you consider the sheer drop on the other side and the crumbly nature of Rainier’s makeup, it sounded like a prudent idea to me.

Take a Saturday with incredible weather, add in the spiking effect of Coronavirus with social distancing and shutdowns galore (meaning people are getting outside probably more than ever), and tweak the mix with free entry to the park, and one gets a bloated parking lot. The whole trip up the snowfield had specks of humans booting, skinning and snow shoeing in nicely spaced lines for the better part of the day. Everywhere I turned the specks were visible both high and low. However, with so much open space it was quite easy to have your own bubble. I opted to boot up Panorama Point as I saw some skiers having difficulty skinning. Besides, there is always a nice boot track here making it easy peasy. It looked like party time at the top with people taking a break and paying homage to the malignant sun god. I snapped a few pics and continued up the remaining short steep two steps to the gentler terrain above. After this it was shush shush shush goes the skins for some time. I broke off from the main thoroughfare, making my own track to the right to position myself for Anvil.

Anvil Rock (9584’) visible from the snowfield above Panorama Point

I found a nice bit of rock to take a break about 500’ below Anvil, eating some chow and quaffing my liquid. I had noticed some chaffing on my Hoji’s (inside ankle side) from my prior trip, so I shed the boots to take a look. I applied some mole skin and changed to thicker socks and this seemed to alleviate the problem, at least until I took the mole skin off in the shower at home. The layer of skin that came with it raised an eyebrow to say the least. From the rocks it was a short skin to just below the summit rock of Anvil, where I found a flat spot to stash the skis. Low angled soft snow made an easy jaunt to the summit rock where I placed my pole atop the top. Tag! Nice views here to while away a few minutes, and far enough off the main route to enjoy solitude whilst watching the ants, noticeably slower now with the higher elevation.

Nisqually icefall

I configured for the downhill, somewhat dreading the conditions. However, it turns out the crud at 9000’ wasn’t nearly as bad as what I encountered below Cowlitz Rocks and was quite manageable. In fact, as I proceeded lower the skiing became less survival and more glidal, with pretty good soft spring conditions all the way to Paradise. Maybe a little choppy in places but fun nonetheless. The steep slope below Panorama point was doable without traversing and was over in short order with tight turns. After that it was cruising to the parking lot, now packed to the gills with people everywhere. I even passed a group in lounge chairs with tables adorned with beer. I weaved through the parking lot to my car staying 15’ from everyone and did the pack up chores….drying the skis, pouring coffee, eating a peanut butter cookie; the usual stuff. Light traffic had me home in short order and my wife treated me to a salmon dinner. Welcome to retirement.

Looking towards Camp Muir from Anvil Rock