Tatoosh Peak (6310')

June 23, 2026 by Willis Wall

Tatoosh Peak is classified as a hike because there is a trail all the way to the summit. This is a peak on the Mountaineers 100 Peaks in Mt. Rainier National Park list, and brings my total to 77. To access the trailhead, one must negotiate FS 5270, which is in fairly good condition but does have a gully section in the road that would be problematic for a lower slung vehicle, along with some pretty deep potholes. I touched bottom in my vehicle with 8" of clearance, but on the return managed a better route. This hike occurred on the solstice, June 21st, 2026 with absolutely beautiful weather. I joined Michelle (fellow peak bagger) for this hike. Filmed in 4k, run time 11 minutes.

*Hiking partner Björn checking the map on Strudelkopf, Dolomites*

Italy: E5 and the Dolomites

June 06, 2026 by Willis Wall

TWO years ago I hiked section 1 of the GR10, and on that trip I met Björn and his wife. Björn and I hit it off right away, and we ended up hiking the last 2 days together. Some months ago it struck me that it would be cool to get together again for a hike somewhere in Europe, and I floated the idea in such a way that he could have easily passed. Luckily, he jumped right on it, proposing plans for hiking in Italy for a week, as this was on his radar for a May vacation anyway. Soon he provided a detailed itinerary for hiking 3 days on the E5 in Italy (The E5 spans 3,200 km across Europe, from France to Italy), then making our way to Toblach/Dobbiaco for 4 days of day hiking. Convinced he was serious, I (actually my wife) immediately planned transportation to and from Milan. From Milan trains would do the trick.

Why Toblach/Dobbiaco? People from South Tyrol are Italian citizens legally, but culturally and ethnically they are predominantly German-speakers with an Austrian history. Because the region was annexed by Italy from Austria after World War I, most residents possess a unique, dual binational identity. You will see dual names in this region, one German and another Italian. Björn got a kick out of our Monte Specie hike because the German name is Strudelkopf.

We planned on meeting the afternoon of May 22nd in Bolzano (Bolzen) where we had accommodations, and our arrival times by train were close enough to meet at the train station. After check in, we roamed the town, very vibrant with many eateries and bars with outdoor seating. The atmosphere was cool and young. Our plan was to set off from Bolzano around 8 the next morning for our first day of hiking (and my first day of hiking this year) with an ambitious day of 15 miles with 6,500’ of climb (1981 meters).

*My 20 lb pack legal carry on for a 10 day trip*

But first, let’s talk about packing. In 2024 I did two back to back events, the first one biking across the Pyrenees, the second hiking section 1 of the GR10. Despite the two disciplines, packing for that was easy; one suitcase and one backpack. During the bike portion our luggage was transported to each night’s lodging, and for the hike I hired Respyrenees. Not only did they provide all the hiking details, with maps and phone GPS for a self guided tour, they also transported my rollaboard to each night’s accommodation. A simple day pack did the trick whilst on foot. Not so for this hike: I needed to carry everything with me for the entire trip. 3 days on E5, then multiple trains to get to Dobbiaco, where we stayed for 4 nights to day hike, then trains back to Milan for my flight home. I wanted a legal airline carry on sized pack (40L) which would be comfortable enough to hike all day and also have organizational compartments akin to a dedicated travel pack. A Nemo pack ticked off all the boxes. It even had a separate shoe compartment, as my wife suggested I should not be wearing gross, smelly hiking shoes on the airplane(s). My final result: the Nemo pack came in at just under 20 pounds, including a 4.7 ounce day pack, rolled up nicely inside, which was good for the day hikes out of Dobbiaco.

E5 DAY 1: Bolzano to Madonna di Pietralba We started off (Saturday, May 23rd) with concerns of heat that morning, but it never got too bad for us, especially considering the huge climb at the beginning (4,000’/1200 meters). The day had a mix of forest and road walking, actually quite pleasant. Cricket sound reminded me of growing up in New England, and Cuckoo calls fit right in for my Austrian buddy. Speaking of Björn, his multilingual chops were very handy. German? good; Italian? fine; French? he got by. English? probably better than mine. Also, what really clicked, we were simpatico with pace, breaks, coffee stops etc. Neither one of us had to speed up or slow down to accommodate the other. No one grumbled or got testy. This was true for every day. But this Day 1 had us arriving at our hotel close to 9 PM, something I am intimately acquainted with but not the usual thing for Björn. No matter, he never complained and our arrival with low sun hitting the mountains beyond was sublime. We were happy we had eaten dinner in one of the towns a few hours earlier, though, so all we had to attend to was cleaning up and getting some shuteye. STATS: 15 miles (24 kilometers) with 6,500’ (1980 meters) of climbing.

E5 DAY 2: Madonna di Pietralba to Redagno di Sopra (May 24th) This was to be a relaxed day, with a later start and an earlier finish with just 6 miles (9.7 kilometers) and 1,300’ (400 meters) of climb. Probably the highlight of the day was traveling through the Bletterbach natural monument, a deep gorge where day hikers were all wearing helmets checked out from the visitors’ center. We stopped for coffee and strudel whenever an establishment was spotted and just enjoyed the stroll. Chirping crickets and birdsong were a constant background in the afternoon hours, and the meal at Thomaserhof was outstanding. Also spotted: horses, donkeys and a giant anthill.

E5 DAY 3: Oberradein to Gfrill This last hike was not especially hard, but we had planned to catch a bus at Gfrill to take us to that night’s lodging. We still had to climb over 3,200’ (975 meters) over 14 miles (22.5 kilometers) so the morning hours were spent with this in mind, not hurrying but eyeing what was ahead. By midafternoon we relaxed in the final hours, knowing we had plenty of time to catch that last bus. More woods, cows, churches, ponds and coffee stops awaited us along with trail and road, beautiful weather and some far reaching vistas. Bus secured, we overnighted at Salorno. The next day we took multiple trains to finally end up in Dobbiaco. The trains and busses we used (care of a Südtirol pass) were included with our lodging, and a day didn’t go by without us on one or the other.

DOBBIACO: Monte Specie/Strudelkopf Once we arrived at Dobbiaco we spent the afternoon wandering the village and shopping for food as our suite had a kitchen. With no real prior plan, we had a sit down to determine where to hike the next day. We decided on tagging this peak, hoping for views, and continuing around to drop back to the valley, making for a horseshoe shaped hike. Off we set on the morning of May 27th, boarding the 7:06 bus to our drop off point. At first we were accompanied by the sound of traffic and distant gun shots(?), echoing off the cliff walls from the valley below. But then the views starting coming, and before we knew it we were yodeling through a tunnel and hugging a sheer cliff track, concentrating on not stumbling but also pretty secure with a hand line along this section. When we reached the plateau of Strudelkopf, we were blown away by the 360 degree views to rocky crags and magnificent mountains. We were also surprised at the number of people up there, hinting that there was an easier way; dogs, infants in backpacks, kids and seemingly unfit people adorning the slopes kinda gave us that impression. However, there was plenty of space for everyone and we found a nice mound to get our snack and coffee on (thanks to Björn for packing a thermos of hot water, which we enjoyed on every hike). We also finally determined where the Tre Cime peaks were, a bit off in the distance but impressive nonetheless. The Dolomites live up to the hype! We finally set off to the other side of the mountain, stopping for coffee and a cold drink along the way. This stretch was mostly on dirt road but still quite pleasant. This was a good day indeed, as rain had been in the forecast for the afternoon but never appeared. STATS: 9 miles (14.5 kilometers)/3,800’ (1160 meters) of climb.

*Junction sign in the Piccola Croda del Becco alpine*

DOBBIACO: Piccola Croda del Becco Circumnavigation Today (May 28th) we decided on a loop hike, starting at Pragser Wildsee (lake and resort) and climbing to the alpine in a clockwise direction. Both the climb and descent on either side of the mount were interesting, with cabled handlines in the morn and slippery scree/rock in the afternoon. The refuge near the high point was not yet open (what, no coffee!), but we still had an ambling trek over the alpine area, again with far reaching mountainous views. Björn had a sharp eye in spotting some ibex on the slopes above, along with the occasional marmot. Prior to the descent, we once again perched on a knoll and snacked on biscuits, sausage, cheese and coffee, having to secure items from the brisk wind. Then it was down the scree and through the lower meadow to finish the loop on the other side of the lake. We made it just in time to catch the next bus back to Dobbiaco. Today’s hike: 9 miles (14.5 kilometers) with 4,100’ (1250 meters) of climb.

THE END For our last day in Dobbiaco, we decided to play the tourist and caught a bus to Cortina, spending the day looking in shops, having snack on a rooftop bar, checking out the local attractions, having lunch on a quiet patio and just gawking. The next day would have me leaving first via train to Milan, and Björn leaving a few hours later for his home in Austria. Here’s what I texted his wife after we parted: “…just wanted you to know that Björn was a great hiking partner, both physically and in spirit. He may tell you otherwise, but two guys who barely know each other in close quarters for a week is a big risk, and I thoroughly enjoyed his company the whole time. He claims to be grumpy but he is a fine, thoughtful person so I know better. Thanks for lending him out for the week!”

*Moonrise from our patio in Dobbiaco, last evening*

*Willis Wall on the first half of a Wonderland 48 hour transit (2010)*

Fastpacking: The Big 4 and the Top 4

March 30, 2026 by Willis Wall

*Doable, but usually 30-35 miles per day*

4 pounds. That’s the goal; pack/pad/bag/shelter, a pound a pop. If I can keep the Big 4 under 4 lbs, then it leaves me about 10 pounds for all the rest. For years I’ve been toting about a 15 pound pack for summer season fastpacking, give or take a pound. A 15 pound pack is unnoticeable on my back, which is my ultimate test; to go all day and never NEED to remove my pack due to discomfort. A 15 pound pack weight is one of the most critical components of a septuargenarian trying to cover 30 to 40 miles and climb/descend 9-12 thousand feet per day. Clothing is another critical component of light weight. What combination of clothing will pack small and weigh less yet be comfortable for typical summer season weather AND be safe for unexpected harshness? Maybe consider this the Top 4: next to skin layer, windshirt, insulating piece and rain protection. I won’t get into footwear and bottom pieces, the individual will have to wear what works for them and is comfortable. Personally, I use hiking pants (never wear shorts) and trail runners for all conditions.

Let’s look at the Big 3. In the photo below I’ve included both a fair weather kit, which involves a light weight Borah Bivy at 4.5 ozs, or a “just in case” kit where I’m packing the more substantial Helium bivy. Even the fairweather kit also includes a 3 ounce full coverage tarp, as the Borah bivy is not waterproof, and there’s nothing more miserable than a bivy in the rain. The Helium has a full cover and clamshell entrance, but I’ve used it in foul weather and condensation is a problem if it’s closed most of the way. It’s a lot of protection though with sideways driving rain and is more comfortable in foul weather than a bivy/tarp combo.

*If using a non WPB bivy, I pack the original Zpacks Pocket Tarp at 3 ozs (Mowich Lake, 2013)*

I actually have a tent that weighs less than the Helium bivy, at just under 15 ozs, so a more traditional set up with tent, pad, and bag is still less than 4 pounds. I would only move to a warmer bag in a shoulder season when temps may dip closer to freezing during the night.

*Big 3 (pad, bag, shelter) leave plenty of room in my custom Zimmerbuilt backpack*

In sum, with my pack(s) usually weighing in around 1 pound, my Big 4 (Pack/Tent/Pad/Bag) will always be less than 5 pounds in the shoulder seasons and usually less than 4 pounds for a typical fastpack during the summer. Consideration: this blog is about fastpacking, not traditional backpacking where the user is spending a substantial amount of time in a camp site. When I’m covering 30-40 miles per day I’m usually ambulating 15-17 hours of that 24 hour period. This leaves just enough time to get set up for the evening anticipating an early getup, usually from 4-5:30 AM. Most times I end the day in the dark, and start the day in the dark. A good night is 7 hours of sleep. Fastpacking is a whole different animal from backpacking, but that doesn’t mean that one shouldn’t pay attention to their base weights. I did a few backpacks last year, and the only difference was I brought a tent and packed a warmer bag.

*Setting up the OR Helium bivy for an overnight*

TOP 3: What is it? Well, aside from one’s next to skin layer, it’s clothing that is worn on top. Yes, I know some people have shorts, gaiters, merino leggings, sleep clothes and pants, etc, but for my purposes I only wear pants (which I wear to bed) and trail runners. The real secret sauce is how do you layer for anticipated conditions and unanticipated conditions? For instance, I never go on a jaunt without a proper rain jacket. In my case I pack a Timmermade Silpoly Megazip pullover. Despite all the wonder jackets out there that cost upwards of 1000 bucks, it has been proven that when one is expending energy, be it just walking or laboring uphill, eventually the jacket will wet out when it is no longer able to move the body’s moisture through the membrane and outer layer, especially in high humidity. Silpoly is a non permeable fabric, 100 percent waterproof. The key to it, and any other top piece, is ventilation. I’ve spent entire days in rain with a DCF poncho, but my core was dry because of the venting options on it. The Megazip lives up to its name in that there is a zipper on each side running from wrist to hips, along with a quarter zip in the front. Now I usually plan my short 3 day trips over good weather, but in 2024 I was trying to pull off a YoYo and the weather was just not cooperating. That Megazip was on and off constantly, especially in heavy mist where it’s not technically raining but everything is wet. It functioned well as long as I kept on top of the venting. This, of course, is also valid for a wonder jacket if it has good side and front zips, but the Megazip is a mere 5 ozs, packs very small, has a roomy fit (most pullovers are wider than zip jackets) and long to cover my hips.

*14 ozs for upper outerwear: Alpha Direct pullover, vest, EE windshirt and Timmermade Megazip Silpoly rain jacket (not shown)*

*Timmermade Megazip Silpoly Rain Pullover*

The Megazip is the outermost layer of my Top 3, but what’s in between is very important. I start with a long sleeve hoodie (for sun protection) which is always on. If there’s a bite in the air I add the vest (2 ozs) to trap heat next to my core. If it’s a bit chilly I’ll add the Enlightened Equipment Copperfield wind shirt (2 ozs). If it’s downright cold, out comes the Timmermade Alpha Direct pullover at 5 ozs. Alpha Direct is an incredibly versatile textile, extremely breathable because of the open weave (making it an active piece vice down) but also extremely warm for its weight if covered by a windshirt or rain jacket. The versatility of Alpha Direct makes its way into my pack because it can serve as an active piece (I use the 2 oz vest to protect the shoulders of this delicate weave from pack strap wear) or as a static piece like a down jacket. That Borah Gear down pullover is also 5 ozs but I would never wear it while moving, the down would soon wet out. You’ll also see in the diagrams a Nunatak Apex JMT jacket. Apex is also a synthetic material and can be worn while active, slightly heavier at 7 ozs. In the past I’ve almost exclusively used this jacket as a static “around camp” type piece; it maintains warmth when wet but the outer shell is also highly water resistant. It, however, is not as practical as the Alpha Direct combos. I’m listing these two insulators here as an example of what’s available, but also I can make my own choices last minute before I step on the trail. The down pullover makes an excellent pillow when stuffed in a “pillow” stuff sack. Bottom Line, I can weather the changing weather, so to speak. For mere ounces, combinations of these pieces will take me through heat to near freezing temps in blowing wind.

*The Borah Gear Cuben Bivy (4.5 ozs) accommodates my Neoair Xlite NXT pad and Western Mountaineering Everlight bag*

This coming ‘26 season I’m planning on using my custom made Zimmerbuilt pack for my anticipated fastpack of the Wonderland. It is a no-bounce pack with a center zip for access, purposefully built to lay against my back; most of my food along with any needed xtra water, plus my kit noted above and a small clothes bag will occupy this space. The detachable front bag (blue) will hold assundries I want ready access to during the day, along with that day’s food. The pack has two hip belt pockets. The detachable bag will also be used as a hang bag for the bear pole.

*My Zimmerbuilt custom “Ultimate” pack system for fastpacking*

With my Big 4 coming in under 4 pounds and my clothing kit at 14 ozs plus gloves, hat and extra socks, I’m looking at 5 pounds for the major items in the pack. That leaves me 10 pounds for those other items like sunscreen, glasses, foot kit, GoPro camera, InReach, phone, water tabs, 3 oz pillow etc, plus food and 1 liter of water. If my legs cooperate and the weather is fine, I may be able to get my total pack weight down to 12 or 13 pounds at the start of the trip. Every pound absent from my pack is energy returned for climbing and descending. This year, maybe even some running. 48 hours? One can reach.

*Willis Wall on the 2023 Wonderland Trail 3 day transit (#35)*

*A Turkey Vulture riding thermals at Pinnacles National Park*

Retirement: The First 6 Years

March 20, 2026 by Willis Wall

I retired in March of 2020. In July of 2020, after selling our house, I bought a van and traveled to California to spend some time with my daughter. The to and fro allowed me to stop at places of interest, as did a few trips between Colorado and LA, then back the the PNW. I culled video over these past 6 years of outdoors and travel interest to put together this 10 minute video. My wife has a saying, “tick tock tick tock”; essentially, do it now while you still can, because you never know if there’s gonna be a later. These are just peeks, mostly represented by one clip per area or trip. Absent are many more forays of hiking, biking and skiing, but include a few selections of each. Keep moving!

LINKS to the more substantial trips: Wonderland Trail Hikes #32-40 • Hiking Switzerland • Hiking Section 1 of the GR10 • Bike Across the Pyrenees • Tanzania Safari • Mt. Kilimanjaro Northern Circuit and Summit • Sequoia National Park: 9 Lakes Loop • Yosemite National Park • High Sierra Trail/Mt. Whitney

*Entrance to the Upper Palisades Lake camp*

Alternate Wonderland Trail Camps update

January 28, 2026 by Willis Wall

Back in 2012 I spent the season on a massive project; time lapse the entire Wonderland Trail, including the alternate route over Spray Park, and film and map all the backcountry camps on the Wonderland. Turns out the camps project is still very popular to this day as people want to scope out the camps (especially if considering hanging) in advance. And then, on a Wonderland Facebook group, someone mentioned it would be nice to see the other camps in the park.

*Initial sketch and finished camp overlay map*

The popularity of the trail has grown exponentially over the past decade, and many times one of these alternate camps, not specifically on the Wonderland, are utilized to complete a circuit. This is especially true for the Northern Loop Trail, now commonly incorporated into a Wonderland circuit, or just as a circuit in and of itself. The Eastern Loop is also widely used.

I started filming these other camps at the end of 2024, hitting all the ones on the Northern Loop plus Snow Lake. In 2025 I was able to film the remaining camps in the park, sans 2: Three Lakes and Shriner Peak. Shriner is a one-off, not connecting to any other trails, and Three Lakes is seldom used for Wonderland hikers (at least in the Facebook group), but I’ll probably film them this coming season just to finish up every camp.

*Reference map for Lake George Camp in relation to the Wonderland Trail*

This project has been a real delight, taking me back to areas of the park that I might not have visited any time soon. I especially enjoyed the trip to film Dick’s Lake Camp and Upper Palisades Camp on a beautiful July trip encountering few people. Since I don’t monetize this site, my payment is running into people on the trail that express appreciation for its content. I guess one would classify these efforts as a labor of love. Click Here for the Alternate Camps page

*Yellowstone Cliffs on the Northern Loop Trail, near the same named camp*

Willis Wall Holiday Video 2025

December 21, 2025 by Willis Wall

It’s that time of year! These are snippets from some of the events and journeys I’ve done this past season, beginning in January and taking us through October 2025. Highlights of this year: hiking in Switzerland with my daughter (and skiing with her in Canada), 3 Wonderland Trail transits bringing my total to 40, 27 days of lift skiing, RAMROD (Ride Around Mt. Rainier in One Day) and other jaunts of backcountry skiing, biking and hiking. Happy Holidays everyone!

*Recent rains present a reflection opportunity near Kiya Lake*

Wonderland Trail #40-The Leisure Hike (9/10-13/25)

September 15, 2025 by Willis Wall

My goal this year was to even up the numbers; complete 40 transits of the Wonderland Trail at age 70. It started with a trip the week before going CCW, but I was so hammered by heat and smoke that I had to bail at White River. That was a PITA because highway 123 is closed all of September. My wife spent over 2 hours getting to White River the next morning, then we had to drive over Chinook Pass 54 miles east to highway 12, then back to Packwood and the Skate Creek Rd to Longmire. That alone was over 3 hours, then we both had to wait over 20 minutes just to get out of the Longmire parking lot because of repaving and single lane operations. Add the 2 and a half hours home, and you’ve just spent the entire day in the car. This past week of September 8th originally had a poor forecast, therefore my attempt during the iffy smoke conditions. Otherwise it was wait until October and hope for a good weather window as the rest of the month was tied up. However, the forecast improved enough for another attempt, so I procured an almost optimal walk up permit at Longmire for September 10-13, opting for a 4 day trip vice my usual 3 day jaunts. Ideally, the camps for a 4 day trip would be Golden Lakes/Mystic/Indian Bar for approximately 20-25 miles per day. But Indian Bar was not available so my one long day would be Mystic to Nickel Creek at 31 miles. This, however, was good because that made the last day a short one of 14 miles. Links to July and August hikes (#’s 38 and 39)

*A rare look from inside Indian Henry’s ranger cabin*

Day 1: Longmire to Golden Lakes CW (25 miles/8,300' elev) This section going CW all the way to Sunrise is now remote due to the lack of Mowich Lake and Carbon River access. It also sports consistent elevation gains and losses along the way compared to equivalent distances over the rest of the trail. I started out with a tinge of trepidation because of the lethargic and slow progress the previous week. What if my age was catching up, or my thyroid levels suddenly took a dive, etc? I've done the trail so many times in both directions that I can tell my progress based solely on the month, time of day and where I am on the trek. I have transited Silver Forest (a mile and a half before Golden Lakes) many times in the dark on previous hikes but I still had light to within a half mile of Golden Lakes; that was a good sign. I arrived at 8 PM and was tucked in and ready to sleep by 9, in an actual tent vice a bivy. That may sound a bit strange, but I haven't used a tent on the Wonderland since 2009. I pulled out a zpacks Plexamid (no longer made) that I had purchased before I retired more than 5 years ago, but never used. It took up a little more space in my Durston Wapta 30 but at under 15 ozs was actually lighter than some of my bivy options. [my pack weight for all 3 transits this year has come in at 16 lbs or less with food and 1 liter of H2O] I gotta admit, it was kinda nice to have the covered space to hang in. For those interested, this hike my sleep system was a Nunatak 40 degree Nano quilt and a NeoAir NXT short pad. Although not continuous, I got more than 8 hours of sleep...UNBELIEVABLE!

Day 2: Golden Lakes to Mystic Camp (25 miles/7,200' elev). Cool temps prevailed through most of the day, and I enjoyed the "good on the feet" downhill trot to the Mowich Rivers. Having already been over this stretch twice already, I knew exactly where the trail meandered across the flood plain. On my previous hike I marveled at the rechanneling of the South Mowich River and how the South and North mixed right before the North Mowich bridge. You could see the silty muddiness of the South on the right and the more grayish usual look of the North on the left. Cool. From there it was the climb to the now deserted Mowich Lake. I did run into two couples and we chatted for quite a while. Meeting interesting people on the trail is a big part of the experience. They even gave me the Pox, which is a drink they picked up in Mexico pronounced "posch". Then it was off to Spray Park, as I had done the lower route over Ipsut Pass in August. The low hanging clouds and light mist eventually gave way once I was above 5,000', and I thoroughly enjoyed the solitude of this part of the transit. I didn’t necessarily enjoy the rocks. It's hard to make time on the entire trail over Spray Park due to all manner of things to step over, around or on. I knew what I was in for and I was glad my feet were comfortable and blister free, unlike the blister under callus I had endured on hike #38. The light stayed with me until Moraine Park, so not a lot of time in the dark. I was worried when I arrived at Mystic because both bear poles were crowded with bags and there must have been 8 bear canisters on the ground. I envisioned the nightmare of someone poaching a site and me having to figure it out at 9:30 PM, but site #6 was free. I fiddled with setting up the tent and was finally bedded by 10:30, anticipating an early get up the next day.

*Spray Park view on the Wonderland Alternate Route*

Day 3: Mystic Camp to Nickel Creek (31 miles/7,400' elev). Time for a long day, I set off for Sunrise and beyond. The day was clear and cool, perfect hiking weather. I ran into groups of people around Sunrise, looked like a guided thing going on. I made easy time going down to White River, where I stopped for a good break, washed my feet, applied some tape, changed socks etc. and disposed of trash. The White River was raging. I guess it was warmer than I thought, but that stretch of trail to Fryingpan Creek and then Summerland is just sublime. Wide boulevard, smooth trail, lack of rocks and roots, the smell of old growth forest; doesn't get much better. I transited Summerland after 5 PM, about the same time I would be there on a 3 day CCW hike. It was such a glorious evening, no wonder I passed a few people lounging in portable camp chairs and soaking up the late afternoon sun. I lingered on the climb towards Panhandle Gap following a goat family of 5. They passed me below Panhandle Gap and went over a saddle behind me. It was so quiet I could hear the shale stones clattering under hoof as the Dad led the way. By now I figured I would be able to transit Ohanapecosh Park in dwindling daylight, and indeed finally turned on my headlamp on the descent to Indian Bar. I knew what was ahead on the Cowlitz Divide, some steep up and downs until finally descending on good forest tread all the way to Nickel Creek. I was startled by a loud screech and then a bunch of hooting. I looked up screech owls but my cursory search did not come up with an answer. It definitely was not a cat. I continued on my way, perhaps at a little faster pace, until I had some distance on the screecher. I rolled into Nickel Creek late, like 11 PM, found a site and set up the tent, which I noticed was costing me about 15 additional minutes on set up and get up time. Dealing with tie outs and stakes is a bit more fiddly than throwing down a bivy. Since the following day was a short one, I set my alarm for 7:30 AM but woke up at 6:30 needing to go, and ready to go.

*The spectacular view from Skyscraper Pass*

*Dwindling light transiting Ohanapecosh Park*

Day 4: Nickel Creek to Longmire (14.5 miles/2,700' elev). This was truly a leisure day, and I anticipated getting into Longmire in time for lunch. Now, unbeknownst to me, my wife had planned a little surprise. The day before I had called her from Panhandle Gap and said I may hitch a ride from Box Canyon, which is only .8 miles from Nickel Creek, back to Longmire. I had already done this eastern section the week before. She encouraged me to "just do the whole thing, it's your 40th so make it a continuous hike." Well, she knows best and the weather was great. My legs felt pretty fresh, even after the 31 mile day, so I was making good time on the downhill from Reflection Lake. The dig was, my daughter was driving into the park to meet me on the trail with goodies, but she was stuck in traffic, an hour and a half, just getting through the entrance. My wife is texting her via inReach on my whereabouts. As it turned out, my daughter met me about 100 yards up the trail from Longmire, so actually worked out pretty well. I was very surprised to say the least. Then she presented me with some goodies including a cake with "40" on it and two t-shirts with a logo my wife had designed for me. I had plenty of time to drink a beer, take a shower in the van and my daughter and I had a nice lunch at the Inn. This was the best ending of any hike I've done, hands down.

Now I can relax from YoYo's and triples and just hike the Wonderland once per year, perhaps with a pie in the sky goal of doing #50 at age 80 with my daughter and grandson. I've used the Wonderland as a goal each year to help keep me fit as I age, and up to this point they've been mostly 3 day trips. I can still pull it off, as evidenced by two of them already this year, but I gotta wonder; why not kick back from here on out and do a 4 day trip? Or is it I just can't help myself? Time will tell. Happy Hiking!

Video of Willis Wall’s 40th celebratory hike can be found here

*Lake Sils, Switzerland, where we based for a week of hiking*

Hiking Switzerland (July 1-6/2025)

August 28, 2025 by Willis Wall

A little late on this writeup; video and photos are piling up due to an active summer season, a good problem to have. My daughter and I enjoyed a week of hiking out of Sils, Switzerland. We flew into Zurich, then took the train to St. Moritz, a spectacular journey. A 20 minute very expensive taxi ride deposited us in Sils, where we rented an apartment for the week. Of note, we took the bus back to St. Moritz; a bus pass was included in our rental and we availed ourselves a few times during our stay. Click here for the video chronicle of each of our days.

Day 1: July 1, the day of our arrival, we walked to the Maria Gondola and rode that up to our hike. This was a lovely loop hike "Wasserweg" which had us marveling at the sheer volume of flowers in the alpine as we passed by a number of tarns and lakes.

*Flowers abound on the Lakes Loop “Wasserweg”*

Day 2: July 2, we did a loop hike through a valley to its end, where there was an eatery, enjoying wine, coffee and strudel in the middle of our hike. From there we crossed over to the other side of the valley, climbing to a peak named Muott' Ota. The views were never ending and simply astounding. When you're used to orbiting a volcano the views are sometimes directive, but standing on the top of this ridge we could rotate 360 and witnessed an ever changing landscape which was simply eye popping. And yes, flower overload on the entire hike. 12 miles/2600'

Day 3: July 3, Lake Sils Loop We decided to take it easy this day by circling the lake, also considering the weather forecast had some rain in it. Once again we got to stop and have tea/coffee/beer and dessert: twice along the way, the last stop under cover during rain, so good timing. A nice, relaxing day of 10 miles and 1,200'

Day 4: July 4, Lej da la Tscheppa. Today involved a late start because of morning rain, with a steep ascent and descent for accessing the alpine. Views were insane and the flora was non stop. We were both commenting how these 3 days were the best day hikes we've done. Lakes and flowers galore. 7 miles, 2,800'

*Flowers on the Lej da la Tscheppa hike*

Day 5: July 5, Corvatsch Gondola We had to take this ride up to almost 11,000' if only to have lunch at the restaurant whilst gazing at the surrounding peaks and glaciers. But hey, we did walk there past a different lake, so there's that.

*View from the top of the Corvatsch Gondola*

Day 6: July 6, Val Fedoz. This was a more remote valley that we saw from Muott' Ota, also available by foot from our apartment. In a nutshell, an insane amount of flowers, like every square meter. A gorgeous day, seeing only a handful of people and many more cows. 8.5 miles, 1,300'

*Lotsa cows during our hikes to the valleys*

Reluctant to leave this non touristy enclave (no crowds, few people on the trails), we trained back to Zurich and spent a few days there before the journey home. Hearing English again was almost a shock, the city was alive and the food was most excellent. This was yet another great trip for my daughter and myself. Last year I was solo on the continent what with my cycle across the Pyrenees and hiking Section 1 of the GR10, so it was nice to have some family time with my best hiking partner.

*The Milky Way above Rainier from Skyscraper Pass (Day 2)*

Wonderland Trail #39 (8/19-21/2025)

August 25, 2025 by Willis Wall

This was my second circuit this summer, or third if you want to count RAMROD. I'm aiming to do one more to bring my total to 40 this year, then I can back off as I march toward my 80's. This CW circuit, starting at Longmire, had me meeting people on the trail. Frank from the Wonderland Trail Facebook group was scheduled to be staying at the No. Puyallup camp on Tuesday the 19th, so I planned my hike to meet him there. However, the No. Puyallup camp is only 20 miles into the hike, so I got a permit to continue on to Golden Lakes for the relatively short 25 mile day. Short in that I needed to make up mileage in the ensuing two days to finish on Thursday. And they were long indeed.

Day 1: Longmire to Golden Lakes CW (25 miles/8400' elevation) This was a partly cloudy day but with cooler temperatures, keeping the sweat factor at a minimum. But I started out on the wrong foot, being tricked by confirmation bias. I had just transited the Kautz Creek area the week before going CCW, going back to make my WT #38 official by hiking the portion of trail I had left to road walk for foot relief. Unbeknownst to me (wasn't posted yet by NPS), the new bridge had washed out with the recent rains. I followed the route I had just taken to the "bridge", and finally paid more attention to my surroundings and all the evidence of a minor flood. I ended up crossing the Kautz 3 times to make my way back downstream to pick up the trail, eating up at least 30 minutes of extra time. The flow was but knee deep tho so wasn't a problem beyond grit in the socks and shoes. The remainder of the day was pleasant, transiting Emerald Ridge and St Andrews Park, still amazed that the flower show was hanging in there, although on the downside. I arrived at No. Puyallup around 5 PM and found Frank, where we drank the beer I had packed in and shot the breeze for close to 2 hours, joined by another couple for a little party. I took my leave at 7 PM and got back on the trail for the trip to Golden Lakes. I set up my bivy around 10 PM and eventually fell asleep, anticipating a 4:45 alarm.

*Kiya Lake, below Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, Mt. Rainier*

Day 2: Golden Lakes to Sunrise Camp (33 miles/9200' elevation). I tried not to let the impending mileage for the next two days bother me or make me feel rushed. I trotted most of the way downhill to the Mowich Rivers crossing, which had also been altered by the flooding. The So. Mowich bridge was gone, but the river had rechanneled and I ended up staying left of this almost all the way to the So. Mowich camp. From there is was essentially last year's route to the main bridge over the combined So. and No. Mowich Rivers. The "climb from hell" (as my then 13 Y/O daughter called it) to Mowich Lake came next, but it wasn't the worst of the day. Since I had taken the alternate route over Spray Park in July, I opted to go via the regular Ipsut Pass route, having heard no news on the status of the lower Carbon crossing. When I got there the bridge was still standing but trail crews were essentially roping it off, deeming it unsafe to cross as the far end was perched precariously on an eroded bank. They did their due diligence in advising me not to cross, but the alternatives were scouting downstream for a log crossing, or retracing my route back to Mowich Lake and going over Spray Park; not gonna happen. I crossed the bridge uneventfully, deeming this the best option, but as of this writing the park is still posting to avoid the bridge and go over Spray Park to utilize the suspension bridge upstream. Now I could turn my attention to the remainder of the 3600' climb to Mystic Pass. I arrived at Mystic Lake before 8 PM and had good light for photos and video. I still had another climb coming, descending around the toe of the Winthrop Glacier and topping out at Skyscraper Pass. I took some exposures there (11:40 PM) then got my grit on to get to Sunrise camp around 1 AM. It always takes a while for my legs to settle down and finally fall asleep, and this was going to be a short night as my last day was going to be even longer, but thankfully with less climbing. Of note, aside from the trail crews I ran into, I saw but 1 other hiker the whole day.

*A boulder buried in the upended root ball of a fallen tree*

Day 3: Sunrise Camp to Longmire (36 miles/6800') I got up at 4:30 to tackle this last day, knowing that I was gonna be late into Longmire. I'm used to starting day 3 from White River, and although it doesn't seem like much, that extra 3 miles and the downhill from Sunrise really adds on. At White River I spent some time on foot care, nutrition and unloading trash. In contrast to Day 2, there were plenty of people on the trail this day. The clouds were gone and the skies were clear, but it was getting warmer and downright hot transiting the exposed Ohanapecosh Park. I had planned on meeting an off duty ranger at Indian Bar (she issued my permit at Longmire and was going to be there with some friends). She surprised me by packing in watermelon, a treat so treasured after a hot afternoon, well, you cannot imagine. We visited for over an hour and then I steeled myself for the climbs on the Cowlitz Divide. Things start to blur after 3 days on the trail, putting in 17-20 hours a day. After Nickel Creek and Box Canyon I finished out these final hours in the dark, succombing to the suffering but at the same time embracing it; all part of the the experience. Beats staying on the couch and watching TV. I arrived at my van at 2:15 AM, feeling a little comatose. My system was already shutting down, my overlord brain finally giving all those niggly muscle parts permission to give in. #39 was in the books; we shall see if #40 happens in September. Happy Hiking! Link to #39 video

*Reflection Lake on Day 1 of Wonderland Hike #38*

Wonderland Trail #38 (7/22-24/25*)

August 15, 2025 by Willis Wall

I think of this hike as something I had to go back and “repair.” I'm planning on doing the Wonderland 3 times this year to bring my total to 40 at age 70. That way I can tick off one per year as I march on towards 80 Y/O and aim for a total of 50x. These yearly jaunts on the Wonderland are one of the goals that keep me moving. As usual I planned on a 3 day trip, probably 'cause I'm just used to it. 3 days logistically are much easier, as I can always get a walk up permit and target days with good weather, plus 3 days of food is very manageable. However, I have to admit, on day two this year as I was climbing to Spray Park I was thinking to myself WTF am I doing. But at the same time the weather was pristine and the flower show was non stop in the alpine, so it was a mixed bag of suffering and reveling. But let’s backtrack a bit. I have been using Inov8 shoes for over 11 years. I can always buy a size 11.5 off the shelf and be assured of a good fit. But recently it's been harder to find them on sale so I deviated this year and bought a pair of La Sportiva trail runners, as they have a narrow last for my narrow feet. I put 100 miles on them hiking in Switzerland and Rainier, including one 26 mile day, and things seemed dialed in. BUT, these days were long and lots continuous foot flexing adjusting to varying terrain.

Day 1: Longmire to White River CCW (33 miles/8800' elevation) This day went as planned, covering the east side of the park with a splendid trip over Ohanapecosh Park and Panhandle Gap. I had company for a while with 3 ultra runners who were doing the Aspire supported thing. We kept pace with each other in Ohanapecosh and Panhandle Gap, and I stopped with Mike to film him taking a dip off an "ice berg" in the Green Tarn. After that he turned on the burners and dropped me to catch up with his other partners, so I enjoyed quiet solitude in Summerland and all the way to White River, only having to use my headlamp for the last hour or so. When I arrived at White River I saw Mike at the Aspire site, and while chatting the Aspire guys offered up beer and chips. That was an unexpected treat for sure. I settled down in my very minimal sleep system (Borah Gear bivy/NeoAir NXT short pad/Timmermade custom Alpha Direct overquilt: 24 ozs total) and got decent sleep, waking up around 5:30 and back on my feet by 6.

Day 2: White River to Mowich Lake (26 miles/8200' elevation) Sometime during this day I started to notice my outside heels talking smack. When I inspected the feet, there was only callus there. Onward. At some point between Mystic Lake and the Carbon Glacier, I ran into Rita who recognized me from YouTube. She was also doing a 3 day trip going opposite direction, CW, and we had a nice chat. She asked if I was going over Spray Park and I said that if I hit the bridge before 5 PM, then I'd do it, assuring I had plenty of light. As it turned out I was at the bridge by 4, so set off on the climb. By now it was becoming obvious that my heels had a problem and upon closer inspection I knew that I was developing blisters under the callus. Turns out my shoes were just a bit too stiff, and contorting over roots and rocks over two days of practically constant movement for 16 hours a day; well, by then it was too late to do anything about it except slow down and try to be very cognizant of foot placement. I was dealing with the PITA of babying my feet and at the same time soaking in the glorious late afternoon sun backlighting every species of wildflower one can imagine. It was especially cool to see large patches of Avalanche Lilies sprouting where snow had obviously been just maybe a week before. Speaking of which, there was some snow to contend with but very normal for this time of year. I slowly limped into Mowich Lake around 10 PM and set up my system. Mowich can be on the raw side and I had to make some adjustments to my sleep system, feeling cold moist air on my back when side sleeping. I draped an original 3 oz zpacks tarp over the left side of my bivy to block the air and also donned a silpoly rain pullover, and this seemed to block most of the chilly intrusion so I could get some consistent sleep. I woke up and saw no stars in the sky, telling me that predawn was here so I packed up at 4:30 AM and was on the trail by 5.

Day 3: Mowich Lake to Longmire (36 miles/6200' elevation) This was a tough day dealing with my feet, and my pace had slowed somewhat. However, there were long stretches of trail that allowed even foot placement so my suffer meter was lower range. The descent to the Mowich Rivers (pretty much unchanged from last year) and nice steady grade up to Golden Lakes went well. The bugs had not been bad and the climbing was mostly shaded. The North Puyallup was aroaring and the climb to Klapatche Park was overgrown. I was glad to see Aurora Lake still full, as my usual transits later in the summer see no lake to speak of. When I arrived at St. Andrews Lake I had a good foot soak, and a couple who I had seen off and on most of the day offered me some Leukotape (gotta get me some), which is slightly slippery on the outside and very sticky so stays put (unlike moleskin). By now I could see the blisters poking through the callus so the tape over a padded bandaid gave me a great deal of relief. I was also thinking of an alternate plan; exiting the Wonderland at the South Puyallup camp to the West Side Road, then walking the road to the main drag. Although I was at the South Puyallup junction with plenty of time to have daylight over Emerald Ridge, I was concerned about the final outcome on my feet having to do so many more hours over rocky, rooty terrain. The road would allow normal foot placement and then it is just a matter of self extricating and walking out. When I hit the main road it was past 11 PM and only two cars passed me as I walked towards Longmire; can't say I blame them for not stopping. Around 1:30 AM a car approached from the opposite direction, and it turned out to be Rita, who had just finished her CW 3 day loop and was heading home. She slowed down and said hi ("It's Rita!"), turned around and saved me a few miles of road walking. Rita is an angel.

* Forward a few weeks to August 13. In good conscience I couldn’t count #38 truly done until I actually hiked that last bit of trail from So. Puyallup to Longmire. I parked at Longmire and set off at 8:30 AM, biked to the parking area on the West Side Road, then walked the road to Round Pass, then hiked the Round Pass Trail to the So. Puyallup River Trail and the intersection with the Wonderland. I guess you could consider this extra mileage to get there (8.5 miles biking/6.5 miles hiking) a downside, but the upside was I could do this whole remaining section to Longmire in daylight, good for video and photos! I carried my full frame S9 since it was only a day hike. It stayed cool the entire day and even blustery, but the breeze felt great and the sweat factor was near zero. Bonus, flowers were still hanging in there. I ambled into Longmire at 6:30 PM with plenty of time to shower in the van and have dinner at the Inn.

*Tahoma Glacier, on the climb to Emerald Ridge*

This extra make-up-bit compressed my time between hikes, so next week I will embark on WT #39. Let’s hope the old legs will scream a little less this time around. Link to #38/39 video Happy Hiking!