68/35

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A tough last day on my 2022 Wonderland Trail thru hike

2023 could be a big year for me. However, in the past I’ve written on these pages about my plans for an upcoming year, and without fail I haven’t realized all of them. Retirement offers me some advantages over prior years. No work means I can be consistent in training and flexible in the timing of sojourns. Barring major setbacks in health and family issues, things that crop up at any time, I can try to plan and set goals for the year. So what is 68/35? I turned 68 Y/O, and 35 refers to my 35th Wonderland Trail hike.

This is a list of some of the goals I am aiming for this coming year, and they all involve increased fitness. 1. Finish my 35th transit of the Wonderland Trail 2. Bike RIMROBOD 3. Tackle all or some iteration of the Mt. Rainier Grand Tour. 4. Continue to chip away at the “100 Peaks in Mt Rainier National Park” to approach 80 summits. 5. Extend my high points around the mountain by climbing above 9,000’ (Colonnade/Success Cleaver/Curtis Ridge/Puyallup Cleaver/Steamboat Prow/Russell Glacier/Wapowerty Cleaver).

Depiction of 2009 WT hike (left) to 2010 WT hike (rt)

Fitness Goals It’s all about MARGIN. I need to rely less on the mental toughness aspect of hard days. A 3 day Wonderland is hard no matter what, but a high level of fitness will enable me to cover these distances (and elevation days of over 8,000’ of vert) with less energy expenditure. This will enable a faster pace, better rest, and shortened recovery times. RIMROBOD (Ride Around Mt Rainier Out and Back in One Day) is a single 125 mile push with 16,000’ of elevation gain. Bike training throughout the winter and spring will forestall those times when I can only climb 2-300’ at a shot before having to stop momentarily to rest. The aerobic benefits of cycling will also transfer to long days of hiking and trotting. The key to this training is my Wahoo trainer, where I can do targeted programs to increase functional threshold, sustained climbing, leg strength and endurance, etc. I will also start running again to work on those muscles, and come spring, hike specific trails that enable me to pound the downhills.

Early season training ride emphasizing climbing

The climbs to over 9,000’ will be a combination of long day hikes and/or one overnight. This means I must be comfortable with climbing upwards of 10,000’ in one day to give me the margin I need. Perhaps I can combine these outings with the peak bagging list. Needless to say, I also need to be working on flexibility and whole body strength. Luckily, we have moved into our retirement house, so I have my bike trainer and a treadmill in the garage. I can also avail myself of the decent gym available at our clubhouse, a 10 minute walk.

That’s the overview, this blog will chronicle my journey to success…or failure. Unexpected health issues lurk as I approach 70 and beyond; up to this point I have been extremely lucky on this matter. Fingers crossed.

Recap and Progress for 2023

Now that snows have closed access to the park outside the Nisqually and Carbon River entrances, my forays into the park will probably be limited to skiing the Muir snowfield and maybe doing Sweet Peak. But here I wanted to talk about the bike training and margin, topics I’ve emphasized this year.

It has astounded me how much progress I have made in increasing my Functional Threshhold - Power. At my age I figured that I could get a moderate increase with training from my starting point of 165 (watts). Indeed, as the months progressed and I availed myself of the excellent programs on Zwift, I saw steady progress into the 180s, then 190s, then 200s. In November I started an off season training program and the initial tests put my FTP at 231. I am able to pull upwards of 600 watts for 15-20 second sprints. That 165 watt initial FTP? It’s now a baseline for Zone II endurance rides of up to 3 hours.

I hoped the bike would enhance my overall fitness, especially with consistent riding throughout the year. This proved so with my one day Northern Loop Trail hike (38 miles/9800’ elev) in one day and especially my first day on the Wonderland, at 47 miles/12,500’ elev. I also did RIMROBOD (Ride the Interior of Mt. Rainier Out and Back in One Day) much faster than my first time in 2017, with a 13.5 hour day putting in 118 miles with 13,500’ elev. and finishing before dark. I know that I will probably never be able to do the Northern Loop in 12 hours, something I did more than 20 years ago as a trainer and warm up for ultras….there are limits imposed by age. But I wonder, can I still improve? Can I actually pull off a 48 hour Wonderland, or even challenge the 36 hour sufferfest I did back in 1999?

RIMROBOD Oct 2023

I just squeaked it in…the road to Sunrise was scheduled to close on October 10th and the Stevens Canyon Road was only open on the weekends. With a fantastic weather forecast in hand, I was able to do this ride on Saturday, October 7th, 2023. Yes, traffic was sometimes heavy, and when I exited the White River entrance on the return trip from Sunrise there were 114 cars waiting to enter the park. Despite the crowds and traffic, this fall ride through the entire park was resplendent with fall colors. My increased cycling fitness from this year’s training made the climbs very manageable, especially with my Salsa Cutthroat bike and its good climbing gears. I’ve talked about margin and it made all the difference, allowing me to meter my watts and energy expenditure over the 13,435 feet of climbing so as to avoid entering the higher zones of activity…just easy spinning the entire day, and the ability to hammer the downhills, as much as I can hammer on a bike that pedals out at about 27 MPH. There are a lot of things on my list I haven’t done this year, but the quality of my outdoor sojourns has been most excellent!

Thoughts on Fitness

September is here. I’m about to leave for a two week trip to Italy, including cycling, so remaining hiking season after my return will be up to the vagaries of weather. In the past there have been windows and fine opportunities all through October and into November. Perhaps 2023 will gift me with windows to realize more of my goals?

Cutting 45 minutes off my first time on this difficult route

In the intro to this 68/35 blog I talked about the importance of margin, and also my method of shocking the system in preparation for tough days. I believe I was successful on all fronts this year. My first real shock session was the Boundary Trail in May, where my downhill legs were tested to actual failure. I was sore for days afterwards, but the recovery gave me lasting benefits. Because of a busy schedule in July, I was not able to do any hiking. But on August 3rd I was able to pull off a one day trip of the Northern Loop Trail, which in turn prepared me for my Wonderland trip. Through all this time I have consistently been on the bike, keeping my whole system in tune as a base. I also added in some local runs so my legs wouldn’t forget those movements. To note, I just did the difficult Four Horsemen ride on Zwift, and cut 45 minutes off my first time. I carefully metered my watts to be able to do the last difficult climb without having to stop and rest, staying below threshold (mostly) the entire ride.

Here are some shots of the events I’ve mentioned above, and the building process leading up to my successful first day on the Wonderland, which entailed 21 hours on the trail with 47 miles and 12,500’ of elevation gain. In my blog post I mentioned that I still had “plenty of gas in the tank” at the end of that day and that my legs were still in fine shape.

The brutal incline on the Boundary Trail for downhill

A successful trot of the Northern Loop Trail as a trainer for the Wonderland

Day 1 on the Wonderland

En route to ski the Inter Glacier, June 2023

It’s not just about hopping on the bike and seeing how many watts you can average to make your stats look good. I employed available training programs on Zwift for purposeful progression, like a 16 week FTP booster this winter and measured rest periods on the bike, keeping myself in Zone 2. After 40 years of doing physical stuff, I am very familiar with my body and its needs, paying attention to when I need rest and recovery. I also realize that as I age, I need to reduce the time spent in high effort zones to avoid over training. The beauty of a trainer like my Wahoo and of an App like Zwift is that you can enjoy the rides and in the process do something to further your goals by availing yourself of the myriad workouts and programs available. I can’t stress enough what a difference this has made in my overall fitness this past year. From this base I can branch out and target hiking or running legs in minimal time, basically ginning up for long hard days on the trail. This will also go towards skiing this winter.

Consistency in activity has been the key for me…ttypical training log for a 30 day period

I want to stress that I am not just “working out” all the time. I enjoy physical activity and embrace the benefits when I’m outside, be it skiing, hiking or running. Most of the suffering was done in the garage; I am much more able to enjoy being in the outdoors with the margin provided, and at the same time being able to do events that were so much harder even 20 years ago. That’s something considering that I’m 68. Sure there’s genetics and luck involved…I am not gifted genetically (I have to work hard to be average), and I am lucky health wise that I don’t have mechanical issues that limit my mobility. I hope that anyone reading this, especially if they’re older, can see that with thoughtful work one can proceed into those golden years and still be as active as your body and mind will allow.

Wonderland Trail #35: Done!

Just a few observations about my 48 hour attempt: First, the trip report and video can be read/seen here. Although I didn’t make the 48 hour attempt, my trip was the fastest 3 day I’ve done (I did do 36 hours in 1999, but here I’m just talking about 3 day’s). I had to shelter in poor weather near Panhandle Gap, which immediately put me into 3 day territory.

This may help in perspective, snippets from my 2009 3 day trip…

DAY 1: The last climb of the day was to Golden Lakes, and by then my legs were feeling the toll. Of course I knew that I wasn't going to cover the distance in speedy days of old, but when I arrived at Golden Lakes it was apparent that I would not get to So. Mowich until well after midnight.

2023: I passed Golden Lakes, Mowich Lake (9;30 PM) and continued over Spray Park to Cataract Valley Camp, arriving at 1:30 AM in good shape.

DAY 2: "Did I say that this climb to Mystic Pass was relatively easy earlier? Because if I did, I was an idiot." I was hurting somewhat, not feeling strong on that climb, and I still had to descend around the toe of the Winthrop Glacier, climb back up to Sunrise, and end up at White River for the evening. Lets just say those following hours were difficult, not without their rewards, as I truly enjoy night hiking, but by the time I went through Skyscraper pass I was searching for alternatives. As I limped along I decided on stopping at Sunrise, hoping the bathrooms were still open, but knowing from past experience that they were probably closed up for the season. They were, and I found a spot under the telephone booth and just laid out my bag, staying in my clothes and keeping my pack packed so I could make a speedy exit in the morning. This put me about 3 miles in deficit but I knew I had to get 4 hours of sleep to pull off a 36 mile day. Unfortunately, my legs were barking this time and I kept waking up for a few hours with stabs of pain and discomfort as my lower body protested the abuse.

2023: On Day 2 I passed through Sunrise at 3 PM, continuing all the way past Summerland where I sheltered in poor weather at 10 PM.

DAY 3: By the time I finished the climb to Reflection Lakes I was knackered. Hiking became the endurance event of trying to make your floppy legs and feet continue down the trail and not think about how much further you have to go, but that each step brings you closer to your destination.

I was reaching into the grit zone for hours, something I had planned on at the outset but absolutely grueling in the doing. I guess that's what makes it grit.

About a mile from the trail junction right above Longmire, where I had turned left 2 days prior, my mind must have told my body that its services were no longer required. I could barely stand up, let alone move forward. I could barely see. Suddenly I had shooting pains in my left foot. My shoulders ached. Everything gave way. The timing was not coincidental, I was experiencing the ultimate let down. It just had to be especially bad for the last bit of trail, to remind me why I had come out. When I reached my truck, it was 2:20AM. As I write this the next day, I'm already starting to forget the painful parts, but this was truly the most difficult physical challenge I have done for the last 7 years. It encompassed so many of the elements I learned from running, mountaineering, and backpacking. I guess I am still a believer that no matter your age, it's important to remind yourself that you can still reach down into the grit zone.

2023: I passed Reflection Lakes at 3 PM, finishing at Longmire just before 6 PM in good shape.

NOW: I was 54 then, and I’m 68 now. I know some people don’t understand why I do these things, but the fact that I can pull off a 61.5 hour transit of the Wonderland today with less discomfort, by far, than in 2009…well, getting outside comfort zones and doing hard shit, no matter what the age…you know you’re alive.

Wonderland Trail Basic Kit

Next week I hope to do my 35th, and possibly 36th, Wonderland Trail hike. It’ll be 36 if I have the energy to reverse direction and do another thru after finishing CW from Longmire. This short video shows my planned basic kit…shelter/sleep/pack and extra clothing. Those items come in at 3.6 pounds, leaving plenty of room for all the various miscellaneous tidbits plus food and water, to keep my carried weight less than 12 pounds. Take a peek!

Wonderland approaching

I have used a technique over years that seems to work for me; maintaining a base fitness and then shocking my system for long outings. My base work is in top shape thanks to all the cycling I’ve done over the past year. This shows when I’m doing familiar climbs at the park, like Longmire to Paradise or the Sunrise Park road. I’m climbing faster than in the past with much less effort. A few days ago I aborted an attempt at RIMROBOD because of a rapid shift in the forecast. Because of the weekday closure of the Stevens Canyon Road, RIMROBOD can only be done on the weekend. I was already camping at White River after doing the Northern Loop Trail so set out from there at 5 AM. As I climbed in the dark to Sunrise, a few pitter patters of rain turned into a steady stream, enough to stop and put on rain gear. As the skies lightened and I approached Sunrise, it was very evident that this was not a passing thing….it was socked in in all directions. I had a very wet descent and went directly back to my van to dry off. Later I did another climb to Sunrise as the roads had mostly dried, and this time I spun about 1 to 2 MPH faster than the first ascent, as I didn’t need to pace myself. Both these climbs are not very steep and were so much easier than past transits. Stats for both climbs: 46 miles/6,000’ elevation gain.

But back to the Northern Loop: I had done no hiking in July and decided on the NLT as a shocker; it didn’t disappoint (blog writeup here). I was good for the first 25 miles or so but the continuing downhill and climbs started to take a toll on my unaccustomed legs. I had to dig pretty deep those last 10 miles but suffering and hardship on the trail is something I am quite familiar with. In the past I have run the NLT as an ultra warmup, but this day I was trotting only the downhills. The beauty of the NLT is that it approximates the hardest day I would encounter on a 3 day Wonderland trek (NLT stats: 38 miles/9,800’ elevation gain). The aftermath wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be; yes, I was sore, but not nearly like a much shorter trip beginning of the season. And my climbs to Sunrise two days later really showcased the different muscle groups involved in hiking/running and cycling. Example: seated cycling was easy, but if I tried to stand on the pedals I could really feel those trashed muscle groups in the legs.

Frame grab on a soaking climb to Sunrise

My Wonderland plan now is to hit the trail this coming Monday, with a current forecast of great weather but on the warmish side. This will help considerably with my equipment choices if the nighttime temperatures are 50 degrees or above at typical altitude. I have decided that, no matter the forecast, I will take my OR Helium Bivy to ensure a weather proof roomy enclosure in case of unforeseen circumstances. In the meantime I have a few peaks to bag.

Much improved weather on the second climb to Sunrise

Flying Wheels 100

For the second year I rode the Flying Wheels 100, pulled along by Maura, a very strong rider. Drafting when I could, it made for a shorter day had I been on my own. This year the event seemed so much easier, one being on my new Trek road bike and two, being in much better cycling shape than I have been in decades. Just last night I did an FTP (Functional Threshold Power) test…where FTP indicates supposedly what power one can hold in watts for 1 hour. When I started out with my new Wahoo trainer last October, my FTP was about 165. Zwift constantly samples your rides and my FTP was adjusted automatically upwards 3 times, to 184, 192 and 198. My test resulted in a current FTP of 212. I knew I would get more fit but I’m surprised at how much the FTP increased over these past 8 months for my advanced age of 68. The introduction to this 68/35 blog talked about margin, and I am currently seeing the results of my targeted training…see the A Magical Day post prior. I was very surprised at how easy it was to bike that route (West Side Road and Paradise) on my weighty mountain bike, never getting out of the middle front chain ring for the climbs. Let’s just say I’m “tickled pink” in my fitness progress so far (fingers crossed) as I aim towards my 35th Wonderland hike, now tentatively expected the first part of August.

A Magical Day

Following a brutal day peak bagging Mt. Wow, I decided to give my body a rest with some easy cycling. This turned into a day of pure living, attuned to every nuance of the outdoors while at the same time disconnected from effort or stress on the bike. Everything was a joy…parades of pristine waterfalls, bird song, crunching pine cones under my tires, all the smells of the forest, all the breezes of varying temperatures. Unscripted, I turned on the camera and just started talking about how I was feeling, then continued from the West Side Road up to Paradise just to keep the day going. It was a magical feeling of just being grateful to be alive.

Great American Ride

I’ve written about the importance of bike training in my routine, and my participation in the Great American Ride was a real gas. Our team of 8 (over 60 except for one 59 YO) finished 4th overall and 2nd for 8 person teams. I was surprised by how well my body held up hammering out miles on the bike trainer over 17 days, turning in 959 miles and finishing 31/484 for individual results (based on pace; 19.67 MPH). I took one day of rest and one day for skiing. My longest day was 112 miles, and my fastest ride was 65 miles in 2 hours 58 minutes (21.9 MPH)

The bike training lays the groundwork for cardio vascular fitness, threshold training and mental stamina. The next phase will be incorporating running and trail running into the mix for those specific muscles. Is a sub 3 day Wonderland possible this year?

Old Black Diamond

This is an excerpt from a blog post I did in 2009, titled “Don’t Stop Doing”….The larger issue is, in my opinion, our tendency to stop "exploring" as we age. It seems a natural state to stay within your comfort zone as we get older. How many times have you referenced an older relative or heard a phrase like "likes their routine?" So this gets to the meat of my ramblings, which is the importance of challenging ourselves during the Geriatric, to step out of our comfort zones, essentially to make ourselves do something that is much easier to avoid.

Thankfully, 14 years later I’m still at it, and skiing is a perfect example. Of course newer ski technology helps (I can’t understand oldsters still skiing with wool hats, skinny skis and rear entry boots), especially offering confidence that the skis will now do what I want them to do. But it’s been mostly my attitude, getting back to tackling hard stuff (black/double blacks) instead of always cruising the blues. The more I do it, the more I want to do it. On a recent ski day with a buddy of mine we ranged around Crystal Mountain skiing as many blacks as we could; it was a wonderful day. Someday I may be content (or have to be) with cruising the blues, but for now, let me at ‘em!

Mt. Rainier Circumnavigation CCW

Yes, the Wonderland Trail encircles Mt. Rainier. This proposed circumnavigation route borrows elements from my Grand Tour and utilizes the Wonderland during this circumnavigation, but incorporates deviations/off trail segments that will depart the Wonderland and venture into areas not seen by a traditional Wonderland circuit. Starting from Longmire, Deviation 1 (D1) will proceed up the Eagle Peak trail and transit the Tatoosh range to exit at the Snow Lake trail. D2 is a possible deviation that would depart the Wonderland on the Cowlitz Divide and skirt the Wilson and Ohanapecosh Glaciers above Ohanapecosh Park to rejoin the Wonderland at Panhandle Gap. I have not explored this route yet. After departing Summerland, the route proceeds over Goat Island Mountain to White River, then departs the Emmons Moraine Trail to proceed cross country on the left side of the White River to descend to Glacier Basin. There is a cross country route from the area of Second Burroughs to arrive at Skyscraper Pass, then to Berkeley Park and the Northern Loop Trail to Windy Gap (if not climbing Sluiskin Mountain). From Windy Gap the route ascends over Crescent Gap, through the Elysian Fields and exiting in Moraine Park. An alternate plan is to break off before Windy Gap to climb Sluiskin Mtn Squaw, then drop into Vernal Park and over Old Desolate, avoiding the Elysian Fields altogether. Another unexplored option is crossing the Carbon Glacier and climbing to Seattle Park (D6), a route that was used for almost 20 years in the earliest iterations of the Wonderland Trail. Rejoining the trail in Spray Park, I would then proceed over Knapsack Pass for a short distance before climbing to the ridge (right) above Mowich Lake (towards Castle Peak), then back on the Wonderland all the way to the North Puyallup Camp.

An earlier trip climbing out of the Elysian fields towards Old Desolate (D5 alt)

Bypassing the climb to Klapatche Park, I will proceed via the North Puyallup Trail to Klapatche Point on the West Side Road, run the road until hopping on the St. Andrews Creek Trail, climb out of Klapatche Park to St. Andrews Lake and exit the Wonderland to circle around Andrew Benchmark to rejoin the trail. With just a few deviations to go, I’ll take the Mirror Lakes Trail to Pyramid Park, transit the park and exit back to the Wonderland via the Fishers Hornpipe drainage. The last deviation (D10) will see me descending to Longmire via the Rampart Ridge Trail to complete the circumnavigation.

Ridge above Mowich Lake, looking towards Castle Peak (D7)

Most of these deviations I have already explored. The mysteries are the transit from Wahpenayo to Lane Peak on the Tatoosh traverse, the two RED routes (D2 and D6), and the Fishers Hornpipe drainage.

Pyramid Park (D9)

I don’t know how much extra mileage and elevation this route will entail; I estimate maybe 120 miles+ and an additional 5-10,000’ in elevation. The packing for this trip will be significantly different from a traditional Wonderland fastpack, as I’ll be staying in cross country zones and will be carrying significantly more food and equipment. I’ll figure it out though and look forward to this challenge. What shall I call it though?

Cross country terrain between Wahpenayo and Lane peaks (Tatoosh traverse)

Mt. Rainier Northern/Western Peaks Circuit

2019 Peak bagging outing utilizing Boundary Trail

I’ve already mentioned that I’m working on the 100 Peaks in Mt Rainier National Park list, and these two circuits would add 10 more to my count. There are historical aspects here also: 100 years ago an early iteration of the Wonderland Trail went over Chenuis Mountain. Also, the Boundary Trail has been in various states of presence. A few years ago I used the Boundary Trail leaving from the Mowich Lake road during a peak bagging outing (Martin/August/Virginia/Berry) and it was in good shape all the way to a road intersection. The Boundary Trail is also nice out of Carbon River for a stretch; climbers use this to step off at the end to access Sweet and Florence Peaks. I would try to find remnants of the Boundary Trail between these two segments and connect them, descending to cross Tolmie Creek. After climbing Florence Peak, the route travels along Alki Crest to Howard Peak, Rust Ridge to climb Arthur, then back to traverse the ridge that includes Berry and Virginia Peaks, regaining the southern part of the Boundary Trail to regain the Mowich Lake road.

Neglected bridge on the Boundary Trail, Mt. Rainier National Park

The Northern Circuit would start at Carbon River, taking the trail that ascends past Chenuis falls to gain the Chenuis ridge, hitting the successive peaks of Tirzah, Wallace and Tyee. Gaining the Northern Loop Trail, a short distance past Windy Gap would be the off trail portion to climb Sluiskin Squaw (The Chief is classified as a climb and would require a partner; I’m assuming I will be solo). Then Redstone, which has a class 4 pitch to the summit…I will take a look and see if it’s doable. Then back on the NLT to break off and head north to Pigeon Peak, backtracking to continue CW on the NLT all the way to Mystic Lake. I climbed Mineral Mountain in 1984, but a revisit is in order, then continuing up Curtis Ridge (one of my favorite areas of the park) to approximately 9200’ to a notch above the snowfield to gaze upon the Willis Wall. Then a cruise of the NLT, which undoubtedly be a welcome treat for the feet, all the way to the Green Lake Trail to break off for the Gove Peak climb, coming full circle to the Carbon River entrance. I anticipate this Northern Circuit to be a minimum 3 day trip, perhaps 4 due to the extensive amount of off trail across the Chenuis Mountains and Curtis Ridge.

Looking down on Windy Gap and exit point (left) from Chenuis Mountains traverse.

Sluiskin Squaw (left) and Chief from Old Desolate

Old Desolate and Mineral Mountain (right) from below Curtis Ridge

Back in the day I used to run the Northern Loop Trail in 12 hours as an ultra trainer; this is a lovely area of the park and one I have spent many a day exploring. Morphing the NLT into a peak bagging excursion will allow me to explore this area further afield from the trail.