Enchanted Valley Chalet over 7 Years: 2014-2021

In 2014 the Enchanted Valley Chalet was in danger of falling into the recent erosion that undercut the foundation. I hiked out there in April to document the scene with video and photos. Later that year in September, the chalet was moved 100 feet away from the eroded bank. However, further erosion has obliterated any remnants of the old foundation and the chalet now sits a mere 8 or so feet from the edge. NPS has yet to release a final disposition of what to do with the chalet. This video shows the status of the chalet in 2014/2015/2017 and most recently in 2021 so the viewer can see how the erosion has progressed over these 7 years. The chalet still stands for now.

Enchanted Valley (Olympic National Park) 6/24/2021

On the edge in 2014

On June 24th, 2021 I returned to Olympic National Park’s Enchanted Valley to check on the status of the iconic chalet, built in 1931 and listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2007. The chalet was threatened in 2014 with the foundation hanging precariously over the eroded bank. Were nothing done, surely the chalet would have succumbed and fallen into pieces. However, in September of 2014 Jeff Monroe, a professional house mover, led a party to move the chalet back from the eroded bank 100 feet. On this recent visit I noted that the river had resumed a course much further away from the area of the chalet but continued erosion still had one corner about 8 feet from the edge.

Male Sooty Grouse seeking love

However, it’s not just about the chalet. The 32 mile round trip hike into the valley is an astounding example of old growth forest, paralleling the river and meandering through meadows with towering cedars and resplendent maples. This is a classic Olympic hike that (amazingly) offers no break from the bird song, greenery and ambiance of the rushing river. Enchanted Valley itself is surrounded by towering walls of rock and cascading waterfalls. This is truly a special place. The status and plan for the chalet has yet to be announced by the park service, but this structure has ensconced itself in these surroundings and will be sorely missed by all who have had the pleasure of its presence while visiting if it is dismantled and removed. The following video hopefully captures the grandeur of this hike, which should be on everyone’s list of places to visit.

Wonderland Trail snow sampling: May 16/2021

In 2019 I decided that my “official” Wonderland Trail snow conditions annual report was no longer needed, as there are myriad places to get this information. However, my participation this year on a Wonderland on line group has me thinking I should post again, at least for this high snow year. Many of the members there are not local and have no experience with snow travel, yet there are many that have permits for the Wonderland in June. Even in regular snow years, June hikers are more likely to turn around or bail from the trail because of snow and lack of trail maintenance. Even access is restricted during this time, as the predicted opening of the road to Sunrise is July 2 and the Mowich Lake road is July 9. This video will provide a sampling of what travel is like on dirty undulating snow in the forest, perhaps the toughest environment for navigation.

My 2021 Wonderland Trail Fastpack Kit

For some reason I’m quite excited about hiking the Wonderland this year (#33). Perhaps it’s because I’ve been working hard on getting in shape; not that I haven’t been dutiful in working out over the last 40 years, but because in retirement I can leisurely crank out pushups, do core exercises and attend to shoulders, quads, lats, pecs, delts….all that muscle stuff. Then spend an hour or more on stretching. On outside days I can run the Falcon Trail (13 miles), bike from 30 to 70 miles, or punish my legs on the 314 step Mini Incline at the Air Force Academy. I have a consistent schedule and get plenty of sleep. Covid is hopefully being reined in and my wife, myself and our family and friends have all been vaccinated. With this in mind I depart Colorado the middle of May and make my way back to the PNW.

However, hiking opportunities may be compressed this season. My wife and I are hoping to travel abroad the end of August, not returning until the end of October. The Cascades have seen an abundance of snow, and the Wonderland will probably still have snow to contend with well into July (and beyond in the usual places like Panhandle Gap). My daughter and I are hiking the High Sierra Trail beginning of August so one can see my hiking opportunities may be limited in the traditional sense. I have come up with a plan, however, and here it is.

Biking in to White River (closed roads) to ski Panhandle Gap/Meany Crest area

Day 1 Ski Box Canyon to Fryingpan Creek trail head. With a good weather window, I would go as soon as the Stevens Canyon road opens (and Highway 123 also), allowing a buddy and myself to do a car to car. I anticipate carrying until well onto the divide, then skinning and skiing to Indian Bar, then back to skinning across Ohanapecosh Park and skiing from Panhandle Gap to the Fryingpan Creek bridge, then a carry out. This will be no lightweight jaunt considering the equipment we have to take, but at least we’re not planning on an overnight. Or maybe we’ll have to. In any event it will be a new experience for me on this section.

Day 2-3 I’ll pick up at Fryingpan Creek trail head (at some point later in the season) and proceed CW through Sunrise and beyond, with anticipation of taking a break at Mowich Lake via the alternate route over Spray Park. If I’m feeling good I would continue on to Sunset Park and take my rest there. Just stopping to rest for a few hours gives me ultimate flexibility. That leaves the tougher final west side section to Longmire in day light, then finishing up the final section at Box Canyon. Somehow that all comes out to 93 miles and 22,000 feet of climb/descent. The ski portion is about 13 miles so this hike portion is about 80. That’s a lot of ground to cover in two days. Perhaps I’ll leave my van at Longmire and bike to the Fryingpan Creek trail head to position at Box Canyon. Then I can rest at Longmire before continuing on to retrieve my steed, making this closer to a 4 day jaunt (I will have to bike back to Longmire). Speculating only.

Now for the title: what do I plan on taking for this hike portion? I am not strong enough to jog this 80 mile section so I have to plan on rest stops (not camping). That means I really need a sleeping bag and pad to get adequate rest. I would also only do this with a pristine weather forecast, my usual modus operandi. This may be the best reason for fastpacking; going during good weather forecasts to soak in views, not rain. So here’s my proposed kit if everything aligns.

BASIC KIT

Nunatak Nova insulated bivy

Nunatak Nova Insulated Bivy (50 degrees). This little beauty has been discontinued, at least for now. It’s a center zip insulated cocoon with 7d Robic Weather Resistant Ripstop Nylon, incorporating a non insulated hood….1 lb. This outer material handles light mists or light rain well for shorter periods…I wouldn’t want to test it in continuous rain. I’ll wear all my clothing inside.

ZPacks Poncho/Groundsheet I’ve used this quite a bit over the years, both as rain gear and as a ground sheet with a tarp. In good weather this will be my groundsheet, standing by for emergency foul weather. 5.7 ozs.

Klymit Inertia X Wave pad Also discontinued, but perfect for this kind of trip. It’s a 3/4 length pad, 48” x 25” so plenty wide with side rails and a built in pillow area. I put my pack under my feet and lower legs. When I used this on 2020’s Wonderland hike, I put my shoes under my feet. Unlike a NeoAir, this blows up with but a few puffs and the bulb allows me to dial in the hardness. Packs tiny at 10.5 ozs.

MLD Quilt and Bag Liner: 3 ozs

Mountain Laurel Designs Mountain Quilt and Bag Liner I used this 3 oz bag liner once as my dedicated bivy bag. It’s so packable and light that it’s worth the weight to use inside my Nova. It will protect the bivy from dirty clothes and will add a modicum of heat retention (MLD claims 5 degrees) to the system. As an aside, I used this in the bunk when I was flying international trips with long sleep breaks. It really works.

Zimmerbuilt Custom Ultimate Pack I had this pack made for just this kind of trip. It is only 4” thick but utilizes my entire back area. It has built in pockets in the minimalist belt, there just to keep the pack glued to my back. It has a center zip for easy access to all the contents, and on longer trips it employs a separate attachable bag for food. 14 ozs stripped down. These “Big 4” items come in just over 3 lbs.

Zimmerbuilt custom Ultimate Pack (Channel Islands)

Clothing Long pants (EB), OR long sleeve and hooded Echo shirt, underwear, beanie, cap, 1 pair extra socks, Inov8 trail runners, Showers Pass gloves, OR Polartech Alpha hooded jacket.

Discontinued Klymit Inertia X Wave

Other Glasses, sunglasses, sunscreen, small pack towel, toothbrush, Sawyer Squeeze filter, InReach Mini, iPhone, GoPro Hero 9 with xtra battery, small charger for iPhone, Petzl Actik headlamp with extra Core battery, BD carbon trekking poles, foot kit and minimal first aid, 20 oz water bottle (shoulder carried)

Food Lots of liquid nutrition in Tailwind and Tailwind recovery, Nutella and flatbread, Green Belly bars, nuts, olive oil, Fig Newtons, Peanut M&Ms, Pringles, Pop Tarts.

Over on Reddit r/ultralight people get very specific on worn weight vice carried weight and so on. My method: step on scale naked. Weigh. Put on clothes and pack with full water bottle and food (don’t forget to hold the poles!). Weigh. The difference is what you’re carrying. Easy. I don’t have all my stuff with me but I’m anticipating this final weight to be 12 lbs or less. That’s if the weather holds, the stars align for available days, and the snow levels aren’t still beastly by the end of July (really slows one down). But this is my plan, always subject to adjustment. Who knows, I may just carry my skis all the way around?

Wonderland Trail Hike Prep 2021

This is an article I wrote for a Wonderland Trail online group, ranging from newbies to experienced hikers. You’ve done a ton of planning for your upcoming Wonderland trail hike, sorting itineraries, calculating mileage, figuring food caches, transportation to and from….lots to do. Now it’s time to think about your actual hike and your best chance for success. Following are things that have worked for me over the decades through trial and error. However, there are many factors that go into individual wants and needs so my advice is to keep an open mind, try things that look promising and if they work, incorporate these techniques or equipment choices into your own personal quiver. This is a process that continues for me to this day; I am constantly on the look out for better ways of doing things or equipment that may better serve my needs.

Front and back packs used for a complete Wonderland thru hike; 10-12 lbs including food and water for a 3 day hike.

WEIGHT: Many cite Ray Jardine’s book “Beyond Backpacking” (2000) as the birth of light weight hiking, but many of his techniques were present in his earlier book “The Pacific Crest Trail Hiker’s Handbook” (1992). The PCT book is what got me started on my journey to lighten up. Since then the outdoor industry has become a multi billion dollar one, and earlier cottage gear companies like Zpacks, Gossamer Gear and Enlightened Equipment have grown into full blown businesses. There are 330,000 members of Reddit r/ultralight community. Lots of information out there, yet every time I’m on the Wonderland the majority of backpackers are carrying loads in excess of 30 pounds; this is not a criticism, it is an observation. The Xtra small pack of a distressed hiker I assisted weighed 35 pounds, which was in excess of 1/3 her body weight.

THE BANK OF PAIN is something I refer to when it comes to adding a pound of weight to your pack. It will cost you, it’s a withdrawal. It takes energy to carry, and that pound increases stress on your muscles, ligaments and tendons. Consider the thousands of steps on the Wonderland and lifting and lowering this weight. If you take the pound out of your pack, you just made a deposit. You can hike further with less stress on the same amount of energy or hike the same distance with less energy expenditure.

The ups and downs of the Wonderland Trail: NPS

Consider the “big 4”….pack, pad, shelter and bag. Let’s go hog wild! 20 degree sleeping bag or quilt, lots of choices for 2 pounds or less. Minimum R4 value pad, let’s say 1.5 pounds. A one person 3 season shelter, 3 pounds or less. And finally, a pack with full suspension, say 2.5 pounds. 9 POUNDS. And it can certainly be lower, most times I hike with less than 5 pounds of equipment and cover all the bases. Lower weights mean I can do nicely with a sub 1 pound non suspension/bells and whistles pack. For comparison here is my lightest setup for a multi day hike without anticipation of severe weather, which would have me carrying a tent.

Pack: Zpacks custom (30L) 4.7 ozs//Bag: Nunatak 40 degree quilt 12 ozs//Pad: NeoAir XLite (L) 16 ozs//Shelter: Zpacks Pocket Tarp: 4 ozs with stakes/Borah Gear Cuben Bivy 4.7 ozs

Total: 41.4 ozs. (2.6 pounds)

Light weight bivy/sleep setup

My weights can change depending on season and expected conditions. For instance I have a 2 pound roomy eVent bivy or a 14.8 oz Plexamid tent. Sometimes I like to pack a NeoAir XTherm (1lb 4 ozs), especially if very cold ground or snow is expected. But we’re still talking 8 pounds or less for full kit. I’m not going to go into clothing, this is a very personal choice….but are you packing redundant items or unnecessary things like full on mountaineering OR Croc gaiters? I’ve never even worn wispy gaiters like Dirty Girls and on this established trail I can’t remember stopping but a few times to empty invasive rocks out of my footwear. In rain your feet are going to get wet, period. But what about hiking on snow you may ask? By the time most hikers are hitting the trail, spring snow pack will be consolidated and you’ll be sinking maybe 2 inches. Well traveled areas will have established boot pack and post holing will be a rare experience.

FOOTWEAR: Another personal choice, but foot problems have been the downfall of many hikers. When I used to run ultras there were two common things that forced people to DNF; foot problems and stomach problems. All my foot woes disappeared over 30 years ago when I ditched the boots and wore running shoes or trail runners. Never mind the study years ago that the Army conducted: 1 pound on the foot was equal to 5 pounds on the back. My problems with boots, besides blisters, were rashes that covered my feet right up to boot line and very sore pads if I had a long day. But what about ankle support? I’ve heard this for decades. Barring mechanical problems or other medical issues with your ankles, why do you need it? Footwear should not be a crutch for natural foot mechanics. Proprioception (feel of the ground under your feet) is very important as you eat up the miles. Your feet take inputs from the trail and soon enough you adapt to undulating terrain without conscious thought. I’ve never rolled an ankle, even under a heavy load (40 pounds carrying 10 days of food). I’ve used trail runners for all my off trail endeavors (rocks, scree, ‘schwacking etc), including all day snow hiking, although sometimes I wear waterproof socks if I’m in snow for many hours. One example of wearing gaiters would be late afternoon plunge stepping down the Muir Snowfield; conditions not likely found on the trail.

Invo8 Arctic Claw 300 trail runners on the Muir snowfield

The clothing and equipment I pack are essentially the same for any trip, the variables being how much food do I need to carry and how much water. It all boils down to this: critically review everything you are putting in your pack and on your person….the easiest way to lighten your load is not put stuff in your pack. There is a tendency for less experienced backpackers to “pack their fears.” If you are carrying a 35 pound pack and your big 4 weigh 9 pounds as in the example above, ask yourself where is that extra weight coming from? Most multi day hikers on the Wonderland cache food, so say 2 pounds per day for 4 days tops. There’s 17 pounds. With the exception of the Cowlitz Divide and perhaps North Puyallup to Mowich River (in case you don’t want to filter warm Golden Lake water) you don’t need to carry that much water. In 2012 I logged every year round water source (checking in September and October) and counted 121. If employing the tactic of drinking at the source, I usually have 1 liter or less on my person. Of course, this can be highly variable (my daughter drinks more than twice as much as I do on the trail) but you get my drift. Unlike desert hiking you will not need to be carrying a gallon or more on this trail. So 20 ozs of water equals 1.3 pounds. Still not up to 20 pounds yet. Unless you are hiking early season in a high snow year, you probably won’t need a GPS (assuming you have a map and basic compass). Snowshoes? No. Ice axe? Probably not (check with the park service for conditions, esp over Panhandle Gap, assuming you know how to use one). Rain Gear? Always, I consider this a safety issue, but do you really need a 3 layer GoreTex wonder mountaineering jacket? Do you need rain pants? (up to you, but think about it….I don’t carry them). Do you carry redundant clothing items like underwear and shirts that could be washed and dried on alternate days? MY PERSONAL GUAGE: If I put on my pack and don’t really notice it during the day, then that’s good for me. But that’s probably because I’ve never been over 18 pounds with a full load on the Wonderland. There’s no way I could pull off a 3 or 4 day trip today if I were carrying 35 pounds. But itinerary doesn’t matter, if you are carrying 20 pounds or less over 13 days, you will have so much more energy and time to enjoy these exquisite surroundings, not to mention the lessened wear and tear on your body.

Stair training: 314 steps x 25 transits=4700’ vert

TRAINING: If I could only do one thing to train for this trail, it would be stairs. Not running, biking or even hiking. It’s the downhills that will trash your legs more than anything else. Remember, it’s not just 22,000 feet of climbing, it’s 22,000 feet of stepping down/downhills. I have the opportunity at my current location to avail myself of an incline that has 314 steps. I’ve recently been going longer (I.e., 25 transits). 4 hours for less than 6 miles but over 4700 feet of climbing. It was the down stepping that made my legs sore for 3 days afterwards, not the uphill. The more you can condition your body, the more margin you will have; the difference between wow and suck factor.

Consider some PCT hikers over the past few years had difficulties when they had to bail….only using the Guthook app, they didn’t see access trails or roads and only knew the swathe before them. Luckily you really only need one map for the Wonderland, so I would advise carrying one even if you have all the electronic goodies. If you only have Guthook and your phone goes Tango Uniform, and you’re not familiar with the area, you may have a hard time figuring out your options in case of difficulties. Granted this is not a wilderness hike, you will see plenty of people along the way. But why put yourself at the mercy of other people’s opinions or advice due to lack of information?

Don’t worry about food weight: pack what you know you like and can digest throughout long days on the trail. Cook or no cook, it matters not if you look forward to eating it.

Essential tip: Desitin for chapped ass prevention, because chapped ass is one of the most annoying things to experience on the trail. Don’t ask me how I know.

Finally, I refer to my advice above: critically review everything you are putting in your pack or on your person… but this time in a different light. Don’t feel guilty about bringing pure comfort items, like a pillow or hard cover book or teddy bear if these things truly make your time on trail more delightful. It’s not just about the gram counting, because ultimately you are probably hiking the Wonderland because you love being outside and revel in the sights and smells. Some may read this and think to themselves, screw you buddy, I like my blank and blank and blanks! That leads me to my final thought: how one enjoys the outdoors is a personal decision and not subject to criticism, so it is important not to pass judgement on others just because they do it differently than yourself. Just keep your eyes and ears peeled for techniques that you may want to steal for yourselves.

Downstream lenticular seen from Spray Park, Mt. Rainier

Although available under the Wonderland Trail pulldown, everything I’ve mentioned plus much more is covered in this video. It was authored over 10 years ago and equipment choices have changed, but the philosophy holds true for me today. I can still pull off a 3 day Wonderland Trail hike in my mid 60’s. The last section is Wonderland Trail specific.

Colorado National Monument 4/1-2/2021

I needed to take a trip to Fruita to pick up a spare tire for my Solis, which worked out wonderfully because I stayed for 2 days and explored Colorado National Monument. At first glance this park does not appear very large, and in fact I hiked almost the entire width twice. However, it sure packs a breathtaking palette and the crowds were thin. On the first day I chose the upper Liberty Cap Trail. At first I was underwhelmed; it was pleasant enough hiking through the Piñon trees and shrubs but vistas were flat. However, I stuck with it and was rewarded with expansive views to the Fruita valley and beyond. On the map it appeared that the trail wound around to access the Liberty Cap rock below, but I was unable to find it, even though my GPS showed me right on top of it; it would have taken me over a cliff. Surely an error on my part but there were a few people around the rock below and my loftier perch was expansive and solitary. My only problem these two days was dealing with the sun.

View from upper Liberty Cap Trail

On the second day I parked at the lower trailhead for Monument Canyon. Soon after starting, the trail splits with the option of going to the right of the massive through Wedding Canyon, which I did. The huge formation to the left, which differentiates the Wedding and Monument Canyons, provided cool shade. Once I came to the area of Independence Monument I took a way trail around the base until I found myself on the other side, where I joined the Monument Canyon trail. It seems many day hikers do the trails to this point and return to the lower trailhead. I saw no one on the trail through Monument Canyon until I started the steep ascent to the upper trailhead on Rimrock Drive. By now the sun was beating down and despite slathering myself with sunscreen, I opted to use my neck buff to cover my ears, face and neck for the remainder of the day. I retraced my steps to Independence Monument and then opted right on the continuation of the Monument Canyon trail. This winds around the base past some homes and eventually rejoined the final portion of trail to the parking lot. I realized after arriving at my van that the heat and sun had taken a bit of toll as I sucked down two cans of soda water before taking a shower and changing clothes. I had a snack and departed at 5 PM for the 5 hour drive back to Colorado Springs.

Independence Monument close up

Just driving into the monument from the West and/or East entrances provides astounding views, winding through hairpin turns and tunnels. There are plenty of places to stop and take in the views along the 23 mile Rimrock Drive, like Coke Ovens Overlook and Monument Canyon View. I liked my itinerary, hiking the upper Liberty Cap Trail first, then continuing on Rimrock Drive to the West entrance, stopping at the various points. This allowed a look-see over the canyons and formations from above. Day 2 provided an up close perspective, craning my neck to view the massive formations from their bases. This was indeed some of the most enjoyable hiking I’ve ever done.

It’s not just about the rock; upper Liberty Cap trail, Colorado National Monument

Independence Monument from above

I captured portions of these hikes (as usual) with a GoPro Hero9. enjoy!

Mt. Baker Circumnavigation Video

Back in 2016 I concocted a relatively easy way to circumnavigate Mt. Baker, bypassing some difficult cross country on the west side by biking from the Lake Ann trail head on Highway 542 westward, looping back towards the mountain on Mosquito Lake Road and FS Road 38 to the Ridley Creek trail head. The rest of the trek was on trail or road. From my research a duo had accomplished a circumnavigation years earlier, taking 25 days with some serious physical toll. My blog post on my iteration can be found here.

Kudos to Jeff List, who completed a circumnavigation in July 2019 without resorting to bike or skis, in 38 hours no less. You can access his report here. I’m sure more people will join in now that it’s been done a few times (Jeff also completed the circumnavigation again with 3 running companions). But for those who do not have the cross country skills or serious ultra training (or both), utilizing the bike portion and my itinerary can be done by practically anyone.

I resurrected the video I had recorded on my trip and authored this 15 minute piece. I used a Contour Roam2 camera, easily attached to my bike and my trekking staff and very compact in size. Unfortunately I lost the mount on my pole during the latter portion of my trek on the Swift Creek trail, but luckily the camera was in my pocket at the time. My trip totaled 95 miles (58 biking) and a bit over 10,000 feet of elevation gain. Contrast this to Jeff’s trek which he put at 71.6 miles and 22,753’ of vertical gain. I mention it in my video, but anyone who is in excellent running shape could probably do this trip in a day. in 2016 it had been over 15 years since I had run an ultra so walked the 37 miles of hiking.

Solis on the Road

There’s a very informative FaceBook group for the Winnebago Solis, an invaluable place for just about anything pertaining to this Class B RV. Someone in the group was asking for video from people who have traveled, the places they’d been etc. Say no more, this is Willis Wall Multimedia after all. From my 17,000 miles of travel in 6 months comes these snippets in a 5 minute video. For those who also want to read my review of the Solis, check here. For those who want to see some of the things I’ve done while traveling in the Solis, check here. I hope you enjoy!

USAFA Falcon Trail

Wanna do steps? Air Force Academy Mini Incline

I was undecided about posting this. However, this is a unique and beautiful trail so I wanted to present it for those who might be interested. As I’m living in Colorado Springs for the winter, I have found that the Air Force Academy has been an excellent resource; I’ve stayed at the FamCamp (RV Park) which is very nice with all the plugins. I’ve recently started biking the roads on base, as the main drag has wide shoulders and the rest of the roads enjoy low traffic during the weekdays. I (and my daughter) have utilized the Mini Incline, consisting of over 300 steps. I can get in over 2000 feet of climb with 11 transits. I’ve hiked the Stanley Canyon trail to the now empty Stanley Reservoir. And finally, there’s the Falcon Trail, listed as a 13 miler but Strava consistently puts my hikes at 13.4 miles with a little over 1400 feet of climb. I’ve seen primarily mountain bikers on this trail but careful selection of weekdays and weather means I have seen few people on my transits. Being retired Air Force, I have access to the base during COVID; regular public access has been temporarily put on hold, so crowds are non existent. When my daughter and I did the Falcon Trail during her visit here, we saw just a couple of hikers and a handful of bikers pass over the 13 miles. Simply put, the Academy is proving to be an excellent and enjoyable outdoor playground and covers most of the exercise and training options I would want. Bonus: the weather so far has proven to be quite different from the PNW; most days are sunny and cold is easy to deal with. But I’ve been outside running or hiking on many occasions where the temperatures are in the 50s.

On one of my Falcon Trail jaunts (November 27th, 2020) I recorded various parts of the trail to see how the new GoPro Hero 9 performs. Most of the videos in this OFF TRAIL section were recorded on the first iteration of GoPro’s software stabilization, the Hero 7. I’m embarrassed to say I lost my Hero 8 to the bowels of the under seat area of my Solis; the camera was there when I lifted up the seat to access a storage tray, sending the Hero 8 into the deep recesses of the rear area where the heater is located. But I digress.

In editing the footage I cut most of the clips to 16 steps (shoulder mounted as usual), keeping the video to about 10 minutes. This is a beautiful trail in and of itself, as you will see. I usually see deer and wild turkeys on these grounds, adding to the delights. I hope you enjoy….no music or narration, just footsteps, wind and beautiful views.

Dunes and Cacti

My daughter was able to spend a month with us here in Colorado so I made the trip to LA to pick her up and then take her back, logging over 5000 miles. Hey, toys are made to use, and this one’s getting a workout. Supplemental insulation made it nice and toasty for us, and we took the southern route to avoid storms and frigid weather. Our first stop was Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado. Although a little chilly, the weather was fine and the people sparse. We only had a few hours for this visit so did the classic High Dune hike, and it was a blast. This was a unique hiking experience for both of us, and on our return it was humorous to see how much sand we poured out of our shoes.

Climbing to High Dune

Frozen surface layer near the summit of High Dune

Our second stop was White Sands National Park, where we had enough time to do the Alkali Flat hike in the afternoon. The white gypsum sand dunes weren’t as high as those in the previous park, but sand is sand and travel was….sandy. Great wave-like dunes of gypsum sand have engulfed 275 square miles of desert, creating the world's largest gypsum dunefield. The weather was warm and the skies were glorious, and we took great pleasure in experiencing this unique patch of earth, making our own way along the general direction of the Alkali Flat trail (indicated by markers along the way), avoiding people by weaving along parallel dunes. Plus we were able to repeat the “pouring sand out of our shoes” end of hike ritual like the day before. This was the most crowded place we visited, being a Sunday with great weather, but the parking lots were relatively empty and it was easy to avoid coming anywhere near other people by making our own way off the more traveled “trail.”

Making our own way amongst the dunes of White Sands Alkali Flat trail

Dense ridges form on the lower, flatter sections between the dunes

Untracked expanse at White Sands

Our third stop on the journey took us to Saguaro National Park, yet another that we had never been to. When we arrived it was raining so few souls were seen during our visit. Luckily the rain stopped and, as we drove the dirt Bajada Loop Drive, the sun came out for a bit to accentuate the green of the Saguaros. We were surprised at the multitude of flora here, with lots of ground cover and different species of cacti, all sprouting thorns and spikes for the unwary hiker. It was a treat to finally see the Saguaro cactus in its natural habitat as it has been a symbol of the desert southwest in many a photo and movie. We were pleased to see that they were abundant outside the park, making appearances along the roadside as we continued our journey westward.

Click here for the video “DUNEs!” in the OFF-TRAIL section.

The majestic Saguaro Cactus

The classic silhouette of Saguaro against sky

A short sun break illuminates the Saguaro

Our last stop before hitting LA was a short visit to Joshua Tree National Park, arriving late in the afternoon with a plan to camp right outside the southern park entrance on BLM land. Soon after we started hiking and bouldering, we could see a storm approaching right up the road. Not excited about being drenched with rain, we beat feet back to the parking lot right into the teeth of the storm, which luckily turned out to be a snow squall. We reveled in the blowing snow and enjoyed the ride back down the road to our camping spot. As we buttoned up the van it was raining and blowing outside, so I was surprised to awake the next morning with bright sun streaming in through a crack in the front window shade. We opened up to crystal clear skies and beautiful weather, enjoying our ride through the park to the northern entrance before the final few hours to LA. This trip was a great opportunity to sample some of our national parks that we might not otherwise have visited. On my return trip there was no recreating for me, driving upwards of 8 hours a day to return to Colorado. Another bonus for us turned out to be a dearth of people, always a bonus in the throes of this pandemic.

Didn’t get far before an incoming snow squall hit us (Joshua Tree National Park)

Teddy Bear Cholla in Joshua Tree National Park

New ornament for my van (Joshua Tree National Park)