Wonderland Trail #35 - 8/21-23/2023

I wanted to do something different for my 35th transit of the Wonderland. Well, I got my wish. After a year of productive cycle training and some warmup hikes, I was ready to attempt a 48 hour transit. It was a stretch for sure, but one never knows until trying. After delaying a week due to hot temperatures, I departed for Mt. Rainier on a Sunday afternoon and secured a walk up permit at Longmire. It had one camp on it; Cataract Valley. I was aiming for one rest period during this endurance attempt.

Generally the west side of the mountain is the toughest, packing a lot of elevation gain and loss into those miles vice the east side. With my Longmire start, I wanted to get the hard part done with fresh legs and set off on a clockwise trip. Usually I do these trips with a pristine weather forecast in hand, but with other matters pressing I went with “good enough”. No rain was forecast on Monday (August 21) for my start. However, smoke was present but was supposed to diminish by Tuesday afternoon. Temperatures were moderate. I set off from Longmire at 4:20 AM, hoping to return by 4:20 AM on Wednesday for that 48 hour window.

St. Andews Lake, Wonderland Trail

I felt in the pocket all day, breezing up the climbs and trotting the downhills. There’s a lot of that on this trail. I could gauge my progress based on many past hikes, and was very pleased with the pace. I’m usually transiting Silver Forest (right before Golden Lakes) in the dark, but on this day I passed through at 4 PM, hours ahead of any other hike. Sure the skies were ghostly with the smoke, and views of the mountain were suggested, hiding in the veil. But cool temperatures and otherwise pleasant conditions were enjoyable and conducive to fast ambulation. It looked like I was going to be able to transit the Mowich Rivers before dark, another first. The ranger who issued my permit reported that the South Mowich River main channel merged with the North Mowich further upstream, in essence cutting out half the crossing problems. When I arrived with plenty of light left, there were a few slighter branches of the river in the south channel, but otherwise the huge flood plain was begging for water. I passed old bridges mired in sand and rock on the way until gaining the wooded area that is home to the South Mowich River Camp. From there the path proceeded back into the flood plain for quite some distance until finally crossing the merged rivers. This whole area seemed kind of convoluted and I’m sure next season will have the trail crews out there making new rock lined paths, but for this year it worked well. I have transited these rivers in the dark, and being able to see more than 50 feet was a pleasant change.

Starry night in Spray Park

I started the climb to Mowich Lake with light still with me and arrived there at 9:30 PM. This would be a stopping point for a normal 3 day hike, but I launched off into the night, taking the Spray Park Trail (last year I did the Ipsut Pass route), what I call the High Route. There was no moon but I occasionally turned off my headlamp and enjoyed clear starry skies, thinking that the forecast was spot on and that the next day would be nice….with the next day only a few hours away. This alternate route over Spray Park is not easy going or conducive to fast trotting, what with big steps along the way and a somewhat difficult path through Seattle Park above treeline, especially in the dark. However, physically I was still hanging in there with plenty of gas in the tank and steely feeling legs. I arrived at Cataract Valley Camp at 1:30 AM and occupied site #1. I hung the food bag and laid out my sleep system, which I had “upgraded” last minute to an OR Helium bivy and a Nunatak 40 degree quilt, along with a NeoAir XLite NXT short pad. I just rolled the whole shebang into a bundle so I could lay it out for immediate deployment without dealing with individual stuff sacks. I’m a side sleeper so the short pad, at 66 inches, was perfect for a bent knee position. Unfortunately, I had a hard time falling asleep, and I only got perhaps 2 hours of rest out of my 4 hours reclining. I was up and exiting the camp by 6:30 AM.

Tokaloo Rock and Spire, Wonderland Trail

Day 1 had me 47 miles into the hike with 12,500 feet of elevation gain. Day 2 would be longer with essentially the same elevation gain, mitigated somewhat by the last 30 miles abating a bit. As the skies got lighter I could see that there was no clearing; the cloud deck was low and mist was in the air. At least the smoke had cleared out. I was anticipating 4 major climbs to finish off the trip, and I arrived at the top of the first one (Mystic Pass at 6000’) feeling OK. I didn’t have the prior day’s spring and spunk but my legs were still in the fight and I was able to trot the downhills without quivering thighs. I breezed through Mystic Lake, around the Winthrop Glacier and saw an elusive Marten on my climb to Skyscraper Pass, the second climb of the day. In the forefront of my mind were the time milestones, and I was thinking I was maybe 2 hours behind where I should have been. I took a long break at White River Campground, the other spot that I use for a typical 3 day, and launched into the unknown. On the trail to Summerland I laid down and took a 30 minute nap, feeling much better for the short rest as I aimed for the highest point on the trail, Panhandle Gap at 6800 feet. But what’s that I’m seeing in my headlight as I’m hiking?….looks like big dust particles…or light rain. I am always assessing conditions, not just external but how my body is holding up. As the rain increased in intensity there was more assessing. As the winds picked up above Summerland and sideways mist was hitting my face there was more assessing. A decision had to be made, do I commit to Panhandle Gap and the exposed Ohanapecosh Park transit? Now, I was not going “stupid light”, I had minimal but effective kit (total carried weight including food and water was about 12 pounds), and I was confident in my choices. Bottom line though, I deemed it prudent not to continue at that point, and knew my best place to shelter was below Panhandle Gap by the green tarn. Abandoning my 48 hour quest, I laid out the bivy on a durable, sandy area near the tarn. By the time I was tucked inside the rain and wind had intensified. Problem was, I had to keep the bivy closed because of the wind driven rain, but the condensation buildup inside became its own problem. I had all my clothes on and was able to maintain minimal heat throughout the night, but I was certainly not comfortable. Shifting side to side, occasionally opening up the bivy for ventilation, adjusting the quilt as best I could for drafts, I spent the night snoozing and awaiting morning. Stats for this second day: 29 miles/8300’ elevation gain

Emmons Glacier, descending to White River

At some point the rain stopped and I was able to expose my face to breathe outside the bivy. I was up and on the trail at 5:30 AM, wearing all my clothing. First order of business was to raise my body temperature. A shoutout to Timmermade; I didn’t have a puffy but did have the Alpha Direct hoody, and paired with a prototype silpoly Megazip shell, I was able to hike quickly but dump heat and moisture by managing the huge zips in the shell. By the time I hit the Gap I was toasty enough to remove my hat, eventually stowing the hoody and shell in exchange for an Enlightened Equipment wind shirt. This whole transit through Ohanapecosh Park was devoid of any views as the skies were still completely socked in. I still hadn’t seen the mountain proper on this trip. Visibility under the clouds was good, however, and I was able to peer down on Indian Bar from the ridge, my next destination. I was happy to see that the weather was apparently not going to get worse.

The final hours of my 3 day trek finally saw clear skies: Reflection Lake, Mt. Rainier

By the time I descended to Nickel Creek the skies were starting to clear, making me wish I had started the trip a few days later. But hey, deal and cope, and enjoy being outside. Fatigue was slowly creeping into the legs, but I was not anywhere near pegging the needle on the sufferfest dial. Reflection Lakes was the end of my last climb, and the skies were mostly clear with my first clear view of the mountain. From there it was a cruise back to Longmire, arriving just before 6 PM; time to take a hot shower and enjoy some bison meatloaf at the Inn. At this point I’ve probably done around 25 three day Wonderlands, and I’ve never arrived in daylight on the last day. Then again, my last day has never been this short: 27 miles/4600’ elevation gain. That would make this hike my fastest three day hike I’ve ever done, more than 30 years after my first. I’ll take it, I aint gettin’ any younger…and there’s always next time.

Video: this time I authored in 4K, and the run time is lengthy: 51 minutes. But I wanted to convey the essence of my celebratory 35th hike of the Wonderland and hope that viewers enjoy my journey, sprinkled with a few historical snippets. For best viewing make sure you have 4K selected. Cheers and happy hiking!

A Jaunt to Summerland and 360 video

After my grueling 3 day Wonderland Trail hike this year, I spent a few sedate days at White River Campground in Mt Rainier National Park just enjoying the fine weather and relaxing. However, on that Thursday September 22nd I decided to run up to Summerland to capture some 360 video. At the current state of 360 affairs, I believe that 360 is best realized for the viewer on a VR headset. Most 360 editors are still presenting on a single screen where they decide where the camera points. I am still experimenting with the format and its possibilities, and in this iteration I authored in split screen, allowing the viewer to see a large swatch of the environment simultaneously. See this shorter version (2:40) for a single screen traditional viewing.

I experimented with wide screen formats 10 years ago by making a custom mount and using 3 cameras. “Walkin’ the Wonderland” is one production which showcases this. With the excellent stabilization of the newer GoPro cameras production values are certainly improved. I have opened comments for this blog article is anyone wants to weigh in on their viewing experience. Bach arrangements by Willis Wall. Happy Hiking!

Wonderland Trail in 3 Days (#34): Sep 7-9/2022

My annual Wonderland trek is more than just a hike; it's a life event where I immerse myself in the surroundings and go through all the ups and downs (literally), the highs and the lows, the elation and downright pure suffering that comes with such long days. Also, by doing this one particular hike every year I can gauge how my body and mind are coping with advancing age (now 67). This year offered up a full plate; it wasn't as easy as 2021, where I waltzed around with no particular problems. This year I didn't have the hiking resume but thankfully my aerobic fitness was good thanks to lots of cycling. Daily stats are from Strava.

Day 1: Longmire to White River (34 miles/8468' elev) After acquiring a walk up permit the day prior, I started out just before 5 AM on Wednesday heading CCW. Highlights of the day: Reflection Lake early morning with beautiful skies, the usual incredible views from the Cowlitz Divide, with the sublime environment of Ohanapecosh Park in the late afternoon approaching Panhandle Gap. I had prehydrated my dinner and sat just above Summerland to chow down, which is when I discovered I had left my filter somewhere behind. I am doing the Invisalign teeth thing so I'm having to take those in and out whenever I eat, using the filter to rinse frequently. Luckily I had cell service so called my steadfast buddy who would deliver a filter to me at the Fryingpan Creek trailhead at 9 PM. I still felt good enough to actually run from Summerland to the trailhead, arriving at 8:45 with enough time to clean my feet and ready myself for sleep. My buddy arrived right on time and gave me a ride the short distance up to White River, where I threw down my bivy for the night.

Sunset below Panhandle Gap

Day 2: White River to Mowich Lake (31 miles/7,504' elev) In sum, this was not a good day. All night I felt slightly nauseous and got little sleep. I started the climb to Sunrise feeling decidedly unstrong. Finally, I vomited up the prior evening's undigested meal. At Sunrise I was able to eat a little and drink some water, but the rest of the day was playing catch up for my body. The filter was old and put out but a trickle, so I finally decided to fill a bottle with unfiltered water so I could use Tailwind and try to catch up on hydrating. Since I had gone over Spray Park in 2021, I elected to take the lower route and head up to Mowich Lake via Ipsut Pass. This was the lowest point I've experienced in a long time; the trail is downright crappy, steep, brushy and rocky. I was struggling to make the top, with many an epithet spewing forth from my Invisaligned pie hole. Because of the harder day than expected, I could not make my intended destination of the South Mowich River camp, which did not bode well for day 3, the hardest part of the route. I bedded down and dealt with chilly temperatures in my light bivy and 40 degree quilt.

Flowers hanging on in September on the Wonderland Trail

Day 3: Mowich Lake to Longmire (39 miles/8,902' elev) On the trail just after 5 had me feeling more normal; I was finally recovering from the prior day. The climb up to Golden Lakes went well and I felt good the rest of the day, trotting the descents and machine like on the subsequent climbs to Klapatche Park, Emerald Ridge and Indian Henry's. The weather was fine but starting to get some smoke, which thankfully doesn't bother me. Klapatche Park was deserted, and I correctly guessed that most of the night's residents were either not there yet or hanging at St Andrews Lake, since Aurora "Lake" was dry. Sure enough, when I arrived at St Andrews Lake there were a few people scattered around enjoying the environs, including me. I proceeded to soak my feet and splash water on my legs and face. This was a nice pick me up and I departed for the South Puyallup, which came quickly as the trail was ripe for trotting. I had assumed that I would be transiting Emerald Ridge in the dark but got lucky in the timing; I was sans headlamp until departing the ridge. There was just enough light provided by the reflecting mountain. This was also the first time I had seen mountain goats in this area, a special treat. It's these early and late times on the trail that offer up unique experiences every time I go out. We all hike our own hike, but I am not much for camping and prefer to be on trail the majority of the day for these very reasons. I also quite enjoy hiking at night, which on this day proved to be too much enjoyment. I still had to descend to the suspension bridge over Tahoma Creek, climb up to Indian Henry's and descend to cross both Kautz and Pyramid Creeks before dropping down to Longmire. Good thing I am familiar with these areas as crossing at night can be somewhat difficult with lack of clues, cairns or tape. In retrospect I was really glad I didn't have to cross the Carbon at night because that whole area was a mess.

At Rampart Ridge the sign says 2 miles to Longmire, which elicited an "Oh f%$k me" after GPS said I had already done 37 miles, but I finally staggered into the parking lot just past 1 AM. Aside from ultras, this was the longest single day push I had done in quite a few years, but I was glad I was able to pull it off. I am so lucky that my health and mechanics are still going strong as I approach 70, enabling me to hit it hard like 30 years ago. Someday I may have to lengthen my trips...but not today.

The following video is a chronicle of my 34th transit of the Wonderland Trail in Mt. Rainier National Park. As usual I rely heavily on a shoulder mounted GoPro Hero 9 with Max lens for video, and my iPhone 13 for photos and video. My advanced age shows in my methods of composition; one only sees my talking head once in the entire piece, I have no vertical video, and the viewing time is 38 minutes. Enjoy!

2022 Wonderland Trail Prep

My goal this year is to do the Wonderland twice; once in 2 sections as a trainer, and once as a thru. Long term I’d like to do the Wonderland 50 times. To date I have hiked it 33 times, and at age 67 once a year would mean #50 at age 83. I’m optimistic that this is possible, but I might want to get a head start on the numbers.

The Hikes….my plan is to first section hike between Longmire and Sunrise, self supported by bike. By parking at Sunrise both times I can at least start at a high point, making the biking portion a little less strenuous. The eastern section hike involves 36 miles with about 6000’ of elevation, so I would do this one first. The western section is longer at 57 miles with about 16,000’ of elevation, surely making for quite a long day. Hopefully I can space these approximately 2 weeks apart, completing hike #34, then doing #35 as a thu hike before the season is out. The following map shows the distance and elevation on bike: 57 miles with 4400’ of climb and 8000’ of descent.

Biking from Sunrise to Longmire: 57 miles/4400’ climb-8000’ descent (Google maps)

Old Trek 5500 on Kikr Snap trainer

Training is paramount. For general fitness and leg strength, I am upping my bike game this year, utilizing a bike trainer. This allows me to target specific thresholds and allows for consistent training. If I’m traveling and unable to bike, I will run. As spring approaches I will concentrate on trail running, hitting the excellent local training ground of the Tiger Mountain complex. I have a background in running, mountaineering, ultrarunning, off trail travel and scrambling. I am very comfortable in the outdoors and this experience means I can pack appropriately. Most of my prior Wonderland hikes have been in 3 days, or shorter in sections. Last year I was comfortably able to cover the 30 plus miles and over 8000’ elevation days, usually turning in about 17 hours per day on trail. This leaves plenty of lounging time during the day.

Borah Gear bivy on the Colonnade, Mt. Rainier National Park

The Gear I’ve been “ultralighting” for quite some time, since the early 90’s. I constantly seek out improvements in gear that will make my outdoors sojourns more comfortable and/or safer (gotta love that InReach). My plans this year will not involve camping on the shorter Eastern section, and maybe one night on the Western section, probably utilizing Mowich Lake. Therefore I don’t need to get embroiled in the permit process, unless I do a walkup like last year. This also means that I can time my hikes for periods of good weather, as I have been doing for over 35 years. However, I always carry shelter and a sleep system, so this year I will probably use:

Shelter: Custom Borah Gear bivy (WPB): 9.1 ozs

Sleep: Timmermade Alpha Direct “overbag” (sized down): 8 ozs

Pack: Orange Mud 20L Adventure Pack: 22 ozs MAYBE I have been using a smaller Orange Mud pack of the same design for trail running and biking. The Adventure Pack is quite a bit heavier than my other options (the lightest being a zpacks DCF at 4.7 ozs) but the Adventure Pack is made for running, and I plan on these hikes to involve a bit more trotting than in the past. The higher riding pack with no hip belt will also fit well with the bike segments. I will have 2 bottles available in the shoulder holsters and a container of Tailwind plus gear, and this pack keeps everything centered high with little to no bounce. This will probably be a last minute decision, as I can always use my Zimmerbuilt (14 ozs) that I used last year. Decisions decisions.

Pad: MLD 1/4” Goodnight EVA foam pad: 6.6 ozs (or less if I cut to 3/4 length)

I really hate fussing with a bunch of individual items, so the system above is intended to be “throw down.” I will leave the pad and bag inside the bivy and just roll it up. If it doesn’t fit inside my pack I will strap it to the bottom. My system last year was fine, but extracting each item from its individual stuff sack (and keeping tabs on them) and blowing up the pad was still a PITA after a 17 hour day, along with doing this in the dark. My plan this year is unroll and get in. Although I have enjoyed the cush of blow up pads for a few years now, I always did OK with minimal padding in the past….and just a few years ago I had no pad, I just rolled out on some soft duff. I will probably cut the foam down to 3/4 size as I always put my pack under my feet/legs.

Even with the relatively heavy Adventure Pack, my “big 4” still come in under 3 lbs. This leaves plenty of room for food and clothing. I am making a few changes on clothing this year, namely my pants will be Beyond Clothing Avid Ultralight pant (oh so comfy but still with zippered pockets and no belt needed). For quite some time I’ve been using the ever popular OR Echo hooded shirt (I must be careful about sun exposure), but have found what I believe to be a better alternative: the Ketl No Fry sun hoodie. It fits better, has the front snaps for some ventilation, and has a higher UPF rating of 30. I am awaiting my Timmermade products, the above mentioned Alpha Direct overbag and an Alpha Direct 4004 Hoodie (hopefully not beyond the 14 week lead time). The Hoodie will be paired with an EE Copperfield wind shirt if needed. I will probably pack my trusty zpacks poncho/groundsheet (5.7 ozs) for rain and other uses.

Cycling: important cross training

Other Items: I use my iPhone 13 as a camera and pack along a shoulder mounted GoPro Hero 9. I may also bring my GoPro Max for 360 if it works out. Plus throw in the usual doodads like sunscreen, toothbrush, minimal foot kit and first aid, hat, gloves, sunglasses….sorry Redditors, I don’t weigh eveything out and post it on lighterpack, as I know that all my stuff, including clothing, food and 1 liter of water will not exceed 12 pounds, which I find unnoticeable. That has always been my guage.

My methods and gear list is obviously not for someone doing an 8-14 day hike of the Wonderland. Plus I know that, philosophically, many don’t understand fastpacking. But it’s what I do; I revel in being on my feet all day and into the night, carrying an unnoticeable load and spending practically no time in “camp.” I take breaks in fantastic places or just sit in the woods listening to owls hoot. I give thanks that I am able to pull off these longish days as I approach 70. I also spend a lot of time in Mt. Rainier National Park during the year; skiing, biking, hiking and peak bagging, so I’m not limited to enjoying the park only on a Wonderland hike.

Disclaimer: I have no professional affiliations with any of the products listed above and receive no benefit if the reader clicks on the links, which are provided only as a courtesy.

My 2021 Wonderland Trail Fastpack Kit

For some reason I’m quite excited about hiking the Wonderland this year (#33). Perhaps it’s because I’ve been working hard on getting in shape; not that I haven’t been dutiful in working out over the last 40 years, but because in retirement I can leisurely crank out pushups, do core exercises and attend to shoulders, quads, lats, pecs, delts….all that muscle stuff. Then spend an hour or more on stretching. On outside days I can run the Falcon Trail (13 miles), bike from 30 to 70 miles, or punish my legs on the 314 step Mini Incline at the Air Force Academy. I have a consistent schedule and get plenty of sleep. Covid is hopefully being reined in and my wife, myself and our family and friends have all been vaccinated. With this in mind I depart Colorado the middle of May and make my way back to the PNW.

However, hiking opportunities may be compressed this season. My wife and I are hoping to travel abroad the end of August, not returning until the end of October. The Cascades have seen an abundance of snow, and the Wonderland will probably still have snow to contend with well into July (and beyond in the usual places like Panhandle Gap). My daughter and I are hiking the High Sierra Trail beginning of August so one can see my hiking opportunities may be limited in the traditional sense. I have come up with a plan, however, and here it is.

Biking in to White River (closed roads) to ski Panhandle Gap/Meany Crest area

Day 1 Ski Box Canyon to Fryingpan Creek trail head. With a good weather window, I would go as soon as the Stevens Canyon road opens (and Highway 123 also), allowing a buddy and myself to do a car to car. I anticipate carrying until well onto the divide, then skinning and skiing to Indian Bar, then back to skinning across Ohanapecosh Park and skiing from Panhandle Gap to the Fryingpan Creek bridge, then a carry out. This will be no lightweight jaunt considering the equipment we have to take, but at least we’re not planning on an overnight. Or maybe we’ll have to. In any event it will be a new experience for me on this section.

Day 2-3 I’ll pick up at Fryingpan Creek trail head (at some point later in the season) and proceed CW through Sunrise and beyond, with anticipation of taking a break at Mowich Lake via the alternate route over Spray Park. If I’m feeling good I would continue on to Sunset Park and take my rest there. Just stopping to rest for a few hours gives me ultimate flexibility. That leaves the tougher final west side section to Longmire in day light, then finishing up the final section at Box Canyon. Somehow that all comes out to 93 miles and 22,000 feet of climb/descent. The ski portion is about 13 miles so this hike portion is about 80. That’s a lot of ground to cover in two days. Perhaps I’ll leave my van at Longmire and bike to the Fryingpan Creek trail head to position at Box Canyon. Then I can rest at Longmire before continuing on to retrieve my steed, making this closer to a 4 day jaunt (I will have to bike back to Longmire). Speculating only.

Now for the title: what do I plan on taking for this hike portion? I am not strong enough to jog this 80 mile section so I have to plan on rest stops (not camping). That means I really need a sleeping bag and pad to get adequate rest. I would also only do this with a pristine weather forecast, my usual modus operandi. This may be the best reason for fastpacking; going during good weather forecasts to soak in views, not rain. So here’s my proposed kit if everything aligns.

BASIC KIT

Nunatak Nova insulated bivy

Nunatak Nova Insulated Bivy (50 degrees). This little beauty has been discontinued, at least for now. It’s a center zip insulated cocoon with 7d Robic Weather Resistant Ripstop Nylon, incorporating a non insulated hood….1 lb. This outer material handles light mists or light rain well for shorter periods…I wouldn’t want to test it in continuous rain. I’ll wear all my clothing inside.

ZPacks Poncho/Groundsheet I’ve used this quite a bit over the years, both as rain gear and as a ground sheet with a tarp. In good weather this will be my groundsheet, standing by for emergency foul weather. 5.7 ozs.

Klymit Inertia X Wave pad Also discontinued, but perfect for this kind of trip. It’s a 3/4 length pad, 48” x 25” so plenty wide with side rails and a built in pillow area. I put my pack under my feet and lower legs. When I used this on 2020’s Wonderland hike, I put my shoes under my feet. Unlike a NeoAir, this blows up with but a few puffs and the bulb allows me to dial in the hardness. Packs tiny at 10.5 ozs.

MLD Quilt and Bag Liner: 3 ozs

Mountain Laurel Designs Mountain Quilt and Bag Liner I used this 3 oz bag liner once as my dedicated bivy bag. It’s so packable and light that it’s worth the weight to use inside my Nova. It will protect the bivy from dirty clothes and will add a modicum of heat retention (MLD claims 5 degrees) to the system. As an aside, I used this in the bunk when I was flying international trips with long sleep breaks. It really works.

Zimmerbuilt Custom Ultimate Pack I had this pack made for just this kind of trip. It is only 4” thick but utilizes my entire back area. It has built in pockets in the minimalist belt, there just to keep the pack glued to my back. It has a center zip for easy access to all the contents, and on longer trips it employs a separate attachable bag for food. 14 ozs stripped down. These “Big 4” items come in just over 3 lbs.

Zimmerbuilt custom Ultimate Pack (Channel Islands)

Clothing Long pants (EB), OR long sleeve and hooded Echo shirt, underwear, beanie, cap, 1 pair extra socks, Inov8 trail runners, Showers Pass gloves, OR Polartech Alpha hooded jacket.

Discontinued Klymit Inertia X Wave

Other Glasses, sunglasses, sunscreen, small pack towel, toothbrush, Sawyer Squeeze filter, InReach Mini, iPhone, GoPro Hero 9 with xtra battery, small charger for iPhone, Petzl Actik headlamp with extra Core battery, BD carbon trekking poles, foot kit and minimal first aid, 20 oz water bottle (shoulder carried)

Food Lots of liquid nutrition in Tailwind and Tailwind recovery, Nutella and flatbread, Green Belly bars, nuts, olive oil, Fig Newtons, Peanut M&Ms, Pringles, Pop Tarts.

Over on Reddit r/ultralight people get very specific on worn weight vice carried weight and so on. My method: step on scale naked. Weigh. Put on clothes and pack with full water bottle and food (don’t forget to hold the poles!). Weigh. The difference is what you’re carrying. Easy. I don’t have all my stuff with me but I’m anticipating this final weight to be 12 lbs or less. That’s if the weather holds, the stars align for available days, and the snow levels aren’t still beastly by the end of July (really slows one down). But this is my plan, always subject to adjustment. Who knows, I may just carry my skis all the way around?

Willis Wall 2020 Year In Review

2020, the year of COVID. Lots of changes in the Willis Wall World….retirement, selling our house, purchase of a Class B RV a few years ahead of schedule, and temporarily residing in Colorado. I traveled and lived full time in the RV for 3 months, traveling from Washington to California (spending two weeks hiking with my daughter), then back to Washington. While back in my home state I spent some time in the Olympics but the majority of my hiking was in Mt. Rainier National Park; peak bagging, hiking the Northern Loop Trail and my 32nd time around the 93 mile Wonderland Trail. I departed at the end of October and made my way to Colorado to rejoin my wife, stopping in Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. From 9,000 miles of driving, 1000 miles of foot travel and over 174,000 feet of climbing come snippets packed into a 6 minute video. My thanks to my son and my friends who allowed me to spend a few nights in their driveways during this time. Please enjoy, and stay safe!

Mt. Rainier NP: Wonderland Trail hike #32 (9/11-13/2020)

The Wonderland Trail, my old friend, with so many memories associated with it over the years. This year’s hike of the Wonderland, which I count as number 32, was very reminiscent of the series of hikes I did in the 90’s….segmenting each day into approximately 30 milers, although going clockwise getting the meat of the climbs on day 1 (8000’ or so). When starting at Longmire and going clockwise, this means over nighting on day one between Golden Lakes and the North Mowich River camp, then night number two at White River. After so may times doing this hike, each milestone I pass triggers memories of prior hikes. I’ve seen changes over the years, even remembering certain log bridges that have deteriorated, aging naturally as all things do. Could this be my last 3 day Wonderland hike? Make no mistake, covering over 30 miles per day on this trail is strenuous and takes a toll on not just one’s body, but also one’s ability to endure. Maybe not for the trail runners I met along the way, young and fit and covering the same distance each day in many hours less. I had to chuckle thinking that my 17 hour days were what it took the latest FKT runners to do the whole trail. I think there’s something in my makeup that embraces the hardship and difficulties of an endeavor like this, and after just one day of recovery I am already thinking of how I can better prepare for next year’s Wonderland hike #33.

View from Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, Mt. Rainier

Day 1: Cougar Rock to North Mowich River camp. I started with high hopes of better fitness than in more recent years, having about 300 miles of hiking and 50,000 feet of climbing in August alone, not to mention I have been running during Covid. I started at 5 AM and immediately started down memory lane, coming to the sign at Longmire pointing in each direction. At this point I make a mental note of every river crossing and the changes that have occurred over 35 years, Kautz creek being one example. When I filmed the entire trail in 2012, the river had changed course recently and there was little growth in the plain. Now, alders are 30 feet high and the area is getting choked with underbrush. The bridges I crossed are now discarded, mired in silt and rocks, lonely in their isolation and uselessness. The day progressed with passing all the usual milestones; Devils Dream Camp (just a few campers at 8 AM), Squaw Lake, and the mandatory stop at Indian Henry’s ranger cabin. The rest of the day unfolded with the suspension bridge over Tahoma Creek and transits of Emerald Ridge, the South Puyallup and the climb through St. Andrews Park and some lingering at St. Andrews Lake. Smoke and obscured views would be the norm for this hike. When I stopped at Klapatche Park, it was deserted. Aurora Lake had but a mud puddle in the middle, perhaps refuge for any remaining amphibia. In November last I stood on this lake completely frozen, and I couldn’t help but remember Cassie’s and my transit here at 8 PM some years ago where she was recognized by someone from Chicago. I don’t get that anymore; in past years I would do updates on the Wonderland and almost every year I would get the “Hey, are you Willis Wall?” Now I transit the trail anonymously, and that’s OK with me. On this hike I counted 19 trail runners, more than I have seen over 35 years combined. It’s becoming a thing, I guess, and with the lack of walk up permits this year it’s the only way to do the trail legally without advance permits. Exactly what I did. I did run into a ranger as I was leaving Golden Lakes on Friday night, and we chatted a bit. She told me that the North Mowich River camp wasn’t full and if I needed to stay there (vice going to Mowich Lake) it would be OK. So I did, and when I arrived (after night navigation over the cobbled together Mowich river crossing) the shelter was empty. Perfect for my bivy setup. Plus I had stayed here many times in the past, and nostalgia was in the air.

St. Andrews Lake, Mt. Rainier

Silver Forest, this time with day light

Day 2: North Mowich River camp to White River. I should mention what I had for equipment….I used my Zimmerbuilt custom Big Step pack, a Klymit 3/4 length pad, a Borah Gear Cuben Bivy (4.7 ozs) and a Nunatak 40 degree quilt. I carried the original version of the Zpacks pocket tarp (3 ozs) and some stakes for safety, although the weather forecast over my 3 day hike was for no rain. My go to jacket is an OR hooded Polartech Alpha Ascendant, plus I had spare socks, hat and misc. clothing items. I’m always wearing some iteration of Inov8 trail runners. What with food and and a filled 24 oz water bottle, my total pack weight was somewhere around 10-12 pounds. This light pack weight is one of the key reasons I can pull off this kind of endeavor at my age. So with another 5 AM start, I transited Mowich Lake….fairly full campground, and the most people I had seen. One of the reasons was the supported groups of trail runners all stayed here, and there were some Wonderland backpackers also in the dedicated spots…not my first choice for sure. When I reached Ipsut Pass the smoke was thicker than the day before and views were even more indistinct. I had a nice chat with one of the trail runners (waiting for his 3 partners to catch up) at the junction at 2600’. They passed me somewhere on the climb past the Carbon suspension bridge, not to be seen again. They promised me a beer at White River but I arrived too late to find their van. It’s a long climb up to Mystic Pass from 2600’ to 6000’, but the pain ends with the transition to Moraine Park. Usually there’s a fantastic view of the mountain here, but my namesake Willis Wall, and in fact the whole mountain, was absent in the background. Weird. The rest of the afternoon rolled by with me arriving at Skyscraper Pass while it was still light, yet weirdly eerie with the barest outline of the mountain visible through the smoke and layered vistas. I was alone, Saturday night…in September….transiting the area as it became dark, seeing no one near Sunrise or Sunrise camp. I made my way in the darkness down to White River, once again arriving at 10 PM. Now, my usual place to bivy here is on the side porch of the cabin, but, of course, the entire cabin was cordoned off due to renovations. Right next door, however, was an empty campsite with a nice picnic table and a bear locker. Brings to mind the time I stayed here years ago, on a picnic table, staring up at a blazing star show. I laid out my bivy on the picnic table, putting two rocks on either side. I did not want a recurrence of a few years ago when I fell off a table when orbiting Mt. Baker. Not a good feeling, waking up whist airborne and smashing into the ground in your cocoon. This is one of the reasons I brought the Klymit pad, as it’s wider than the NeoAir and is much harder to roll off. Once the twitchy legs settled down I slept soundly, awaking at 4:30 AM.

Day 2: Mowich Lake, Mt. Rainier

Eerie Mystic Lake in the smoke

Layers from Skyscraper Pass

Day 3: White River to Cougar Rock. There’s a sign advising hikers to use the alternate route down the road vice the log bridge over the White River. I think this is due in part to the fatality this year of the person crossing the Mowich River on a sketchy bridge that was awash on one end (with no handrail). However, I had confidence that the bridge was OK at 5 AM and indeed, was no problem. Most people don’t realize that it was only a matter of some years ago that the log bridge over the Carbon, and the trail paralleling the river to Fryingpan Creek, was built. Wonderland hikers always had to walk down the road, cross the bridge, and then take a short connector trail to the Wonderland (if you’re wondering why that trail is there). I think I discovered this around 2005 when I was filming for my Wonderland DVD. Well, it’s a beautiful manicured trail up to Summerland, and when I arrived there….it was empty. On Sunday morning in the middle of September. When I left I ran into another group of trail runners that I had seen the day before, and we yo-yo’d until sometime after Panhandle Gap…devoid of snow. Soon after they whisked away and were not to be seen again by this old man. Oh, to move like that. The worst part of the day was enduring the incessant down steps to Indian Bar. You better hope your knees are up to the task, even with poles. When I arrived at Indian Bar there was a group of backpackers enjoying the shelter and I chatted with them. They had stayed at Summerland and were heading for Maple Creek, and in fact I saw them the rest of the day. I was having dinner at Maple Creek when they arrived, around 5:30 PM. Guess I wasn’t moving as quickly as I thought I was, with my 10 pound pack vice their 30 pounders. After Maple Creek it was the “Final Fog” of finishing the trail, climbing out of Stevens Canyon. I always underestimate the length and the difficulty of this climb to Reflection Lake….which was deserted….on Sunday afternoon/night in the middle of September. Just unusual. The Fog: watching footing on the descent with a very rooty trail, waiting for the “pipe” to appear signifying the approach to the Nisqually River, feeling the air change as a way of gauging one’s closeness. I had to chuckle crossing the bridge to the Nisqually; there was a mouse on the bridge, trapped by this towering biped. I stepped back and encouraged him to continue on to the safety of terra firma. Reminded me of the time I stepped aside to let a deer pass on the North Puyallup trail. Or the time I had to gingerly pass a bear on the Cowlitz Divide with little room on either side, who was thankfully too engrossed with eating blueberries. Or the time I was sitting on a rock in Moraine Park in mist and was passed, within 10 feet, by an elk and calf. And the time I turned 8 Y/O Cassie around In Spray Park, telling her “look!” as a cinnamon bear ran past us. Why do I come back to the Wonderland after doing it so many times? The memories are etched in my soul to the point it has become part of me. As the years pass I may have to adjust my itineraries, but I can’t imagine not coming back to this trail and this park; until I can’t.

Click Here for the video journal of my 2020 Wonderland Trail hike.

The Green Tarn above Summerland, Mt. Rainier

The Wonderland Trail on Sep 13, 2020

Ohanapecosh Glaciers, above Indian Bar, Mt. Rainier

Wonderland Trail Hike #31

I make no claims of hiking the Wonderland Trail more than anyone else, but surely I must be close. From my first hike in 1987 to my latest finisher, the Wonderland for me is a chronicle of my ventures into backpacking and the evolution of gear and experience. I’ve missed some years, and other years I’ve transited the Wonderland multiple times…witness 2012, where I hiked it 2.5 times to time lapse every foot of the trail. My last full transit was in 2015, where I enjoyed pristine weather over 3 days. This year I had a mind to hike the trail in under 48 hours, but was thwarted by increasing fatigue. However, altogether 2018 proved to be one of the most memorable hikes I’ve had over the past 35 years.

Goats encountered as I near Sunrise on the September Wonderland section hike.

Starting at Longmire on September 4th, I embarked on a fastpack attempt to cover the 93 miles in under 48 hours. I had spent some time in the park to this point as I was working on hiking every trail I had yet to set foot on, so felt relatively prepared. My plan was to hike clockwise from Longmire to cover the hardest section first so I could “cruise” the last 30 miles or so. Although I made good time with the numerous ups and downs, I slowed so much on the final climbs approaching Sunrise that I determined that I shouldn’t continue on. To that point I had hiked 57 miles and climbed 16,000 feet, taking a 3 hour nap in the process. However, I determined that there would be no “cruise” of the final 36 miles and 6,000 feet of climb so arranged (via InReach) for my buddy to pick me up at Sunrise. At that time I figured that would be that, as vacations and work would preclude me finishing the trail with decreasing weather windows. But then…..

Through the Looking Glass; Mt. Rainier Reflection turned upside down in Reflection Lake.

The Pacific Northwest enjoyed unseasonably good weather for over a week, and I was home for the end of it, October 21-22. Spur of the moment I decided to finish the trail by self supporting via bike, where I would bike from Longmire to Box Canyon and hike back on day 1, then reposition to Box Canyon on day 2, bike to Fryingpan Creek trail head and hike back. I had already been on the sections between Fryingpan Creek and Sunrise during the summer whilst engaged in other hikes. So on a beautiful Sunday morning I drove to Longmire and started biking at 8:25 AM, covering 18 miles and climbing 2224 feet to stash my bike in the forest at Box Canyon. Once again I called on my vintage Gary Fisher mountain bike vice my newer and considerably more expensive wheels as I was leaving the steed in the trees for essentially two days.

Stevens Canyon Road bike view descending to Box Canyon.

In the past I've described this section of the Wonderland as the least enjoyable, with overgrown brush and road noise from across the canyon. Today was a different day, and I immersed myself in my lonely surroundings. It's not often I'm hiking in this kind of weather but being surrounded by the last gasps of the flora as winter approaches. Peak color was gone, and the golden under story I had enjoyed just a few weeks prior had essentially vanished. However, the last gasp of the forest was intriguing in its own right and was a subtle reminder of the life cycles that affect every living organism. So instead of enduring this part of the trail like I had so many times before, I found myself reveling in this walk in the woods, completely immersed. This is a special feeling...perhaps the core of why I enjoy being outside. Before I knew it I was at Longmire with plenty of time to clean up, eat dinner and still be sound asleep in my truck before 8 PM. I slept until 6 AM...does it get much better? Hiking stats: 14 miles/2646’ elevation. Day totals: 32 miles/4870’ elev.

End of Wonderland second section….back at Longmire.

After sleeping for 10 hours, I drove to Box Canyon and retrieved my bike. Today would be a longer endeavor, so I was glad to start an hour earlier at 7:25 AM. Aside from feeling a bit tired on the long climb to Cayuse Pass, I was satisfied with the enjoyable bike ride, including the 1,000 foot fast descent to the White River entrance to the park. 30 miles and 3,700’ elevation climb later I deposited my bike in the woods and took to ambulation. I had approximately 17 miles of hiking ahead and my start at noon at first had me concerned about schedule, but then I realized I had no schedule….if I could make the Cowlitz Divide before dark then I could enjoy most of the view portion of the day in daylight. With a single layer on top I sometimes felt like I was hiking in the summer, so mild were the conditions. It was only the low angled light and sometimes frozen sections of trail that reminded me of the lateness of the season. Although I passed a few returning day hikers on the ascent, when I arrived at Summerland it was deserted. Sans marmots and flowers, the still bubbling creek, brown meadows and complete solitude made for a rare experience in such a popular and accessible alpine destination. I lounged on a rock for a snack break, soaking in the stillness. Then I was off for the moonscape leading to Panhandle Gap, the highest spot on the Wonderland Trail at 6,800 feet. Aside from meeting two returning day hikers below the Gap, the rest of this day would be in solitude. There were a few icy sections leading to the Gap that necessitated careful footwork, but after that the transit to Indian Bar was delightful in afternoon sun casting shadows on “rock gardens” while the meadows of Banshee glowed pink as the day wore on. Indian Bar was also deserted, reminding me that I had the Wonderland Trail to myself this late in the season. I transited point 5920 on the Cowlitz Divide as it was awash in alpenglow, watching the sun set behind me while the almost full moon rose to my left. Eventually I had to turn on my headlamp before 7 PM but only spent about 2 hours in the dark, descending through old growth forest with light from the moon spotlighting singular patches through the canopy tangle. So engrossed with my surroundings was I that I was surprised to emerge at Box Canyon and my waiting vehicle, almost sorry the day had ended. The hike portion of this day entailed 17.5 miles with 4,800 feet of elevation. Total Stats for the day: 47.5 miles/8,500’ elev.

Transiting the Cowlitz Divide on my Wonderland 3rd section.

I almost skipped finishing the trail this year with the thought that, “Yeah, been there done that.” But once again I was reminded that no matter how many times I visit this old friend, new delights will surely come my way. By self supporting these loops, I also got to enjoy these two modes of travel, reveling in 35 MPH descents and trotting through old growth forest and the moonscape of Panhandle Gap. These last two days involved traveling 79 miles with 13,400’ of elevation gain/loss, all for covering the last 30 miles of trail and 6,000 feet. I wouldn’t change a thing, so now I’m looking forward to #32.

Panhandle Gap.

A reminder that it’s October 22nd on the Wonderland Trail.

The snowless path from Panhandle Gap to Indian Bar: Wonderland Trail

Mt. Rainier Grand Tour: Part 3 (North)

The first snows of the season hit some upper reaches recently, making me realize the time may be drawing short for finishing up the Grand Tour. With a few days of pristine weather prior to the end of my vacation, I finished the north section in one push of 33 miles and 10,600 feet of elevation gain and loss. After hiking for nearly a week in so so weather (Alpine Lakes), this day, Wednesday September 9th, proved to be one of the most incredible and satisfying days I have spent in the mountains. If I had one word to describe this experience it would be Glorious. Grand Tour Part 3 photo set here.

The points I chose for this part of the park continue to be representative of in-your-face glacier views, solitude from crowds, strenuous but not technical off trail travel and fabulous 360 degree vistas. The order and days traveled are irrelevant, but here are the points that I hit:

Mt. Ruth (8690') and slightly beyond (8750')

Third Burroughs Mountain (7828')

Skyscraper Mountain (7078')

Curtis Ridge (7000-8000')

next objective Third Burroughs in sight

For my long day I chose to start at the White River campground and proceed up the Glacier Basin trail to Glacier Basin. From there I easily crossed the Inter Fork of the White River by rock hopping and proceeded to scale the ridge further right, skirting some cliff bands but attaining the ridge higher than the usual climbers trail, which I used for the descent. Some fresh snow deposits on Ruth were easily negotiated in my trail runners and I enjoyed solitude on this summit with 360 degree views, spying many points (such as Goat Island Mountain, Banshee etc) that are also on the Tour. The Emmons Glacier is so massive that no camera can capture its immensity, nor can panos do the view justice in any direction. This is truly a place that needs your eyeballs for it to sink in. I finally tore myself away from the summit to proceed up the spine towards Steamboat Prow but was met by a rocky barrier barring access to the rest of the ridge. It seems the other times I have been up here I came via the Inter Glacier so perhaps hadn't noted this. I descended at this point a bit to see if I could scramble around but quickly decided that I should bag it and head back. It is still worth it to hike the spine this short ways to look back on the dramatic side of Mt. Ruth and stand approximately 60 feet higher than the Ruth summit. From here on it was downhill mode and I quickly found myself back at Glacier Basin and ready for the next ascent to Third Burroughs. This is all on trail and the view from Third Burroughs allows you to glimpse the other spine of Steamboat Prow and gaze upon the equally impressive Winthrop Glacier. I looked towards my next objective, Skyscraper Mountain, and scoped a cross country route that would take me there. This off trail section went without much difficulty and once I attained the open ridge it was an easy walk to intersect the Wonderland Trail at Skyscraper Pass and follow the obvious tread to Skyscraper Mountain. Once again I had the summit to myself and enjoyed equally impressive 360 degree views, spying more points on the Tour. From this point I joined the Wonderland Trail with the aim of making Mystic Lake before nightfall. The only glitch in my plan was a socked in Curtis Ridge, where I have been many times before, and I decided to skip foggy nighttime cross country travel here with questionable returns. I was carrying everything I needed with the plan of attaining Curtis Ridge and snoozing until sunrise for photo ops, then hiking out to be done before noon, but I decided to skip right to the return to reacquaint myself with endurance hiking and star gazing. It made for a long day but extremely satisfying being able to pull off this hike in this age 60 celebratory year.

Mt. Ruth from higher up on the ridge leading to Steamboat Prow

Mt. Ruth (center) on climb to First Burroughs Mountain

Whether I can finish the last part of the Tour (South) before winter sets in is up to the vagaries of weather and schedule. Once complete I will publish more particulars and possible ways to connect these hikes for the intrepid backpacker who wants to experience this park in ways far beyond the Wonderland. Stay tuned.