Wonderland Trail YoY(o) August/2024

Willis Wall under a 13 lb load (utilizing a Blizzard Survival Tube)

Why the strange title? Well, the first “Yo” went well, starting from Longmire and proceeding CCW, finishing Wonderland Trail #36. However, weather was wonky and I delayed my permit an extra day hoping for a better forecast. Didn’t happen, as the second “Y(o)” had to be cut short after the second day (2/3) of a CW circuit. In sum, when one is hiking in rain and continuous wet weather, trying to cover 30 miles with no chance to stop and dry out the feet, well…I ended up at White River with macerated heels and blisters forming. Although physically I was good for the last day, the condition of my feet was not prime for a 33 mile day in continuing wet conditions. I pulled the plug and got a ride back to my vehicle in Longmire from a buddy who was camped at White River. My new plan was to return in better weather and complete that last section, White River to Longmire, to complete Wonderland Trail #37.

THERE ARE TWO VIDEOS AT THE END OF THIS POST FOR WONDERLAND TRAIL HIKES #36 AND #37

INTRO: I decided on attempting a YoYo this year, trying to capitalize on probably my best fitness level in some time. The foundation was laid by 2 years of consistent and targeted cycle training, culminating in my cross Pyrenees bike trip. Then it was 6 days hiking on the GR10, followed by a leg tuner on Mt. Rainier’s Western Loop. These activities put me in good stead to pull off two 3-day Wonderland Trail hikes, planned with one day of rest in between. I departed on the CCW loop from Longmire on August 14th.

Rare sun break in Ohanapecosh Park, Wonderland Trail

August 14: DAY 1 (36 miles/10,900’) I hit the trail at 5:30 AM. Although I never encountered rain, the skies were cloudy and offered just one momentary view of the tippy top on the mountain, just above Indian Bar. However, the day was dry and I enjoyed myself hiking this section, even the slight grind at the end of the day to Sunrise camp. I had lively encounters with hikers along the way and these conversational breaks fit into my schedule perfectly.

Carbon Glacier, Mt. Rainier National Park

August 15: DAY 2 (44 miles/8,900’) This was my longest day this year, but things went well and I was able to motor consistently to 2 AM. Most of the day I was hiking in the marine layer with fog and limited views, and eventually this presented my lower legs with the dreaded wet, overhanging soaking grass and brush. No amount of beating the flora with poles ahead can stop the infiltration of feet seeking moisture missiles.

Emerald Ridge, Wonderland Trail

August 16: DAY 3 (27 miles/6,100’) The wetness continued well into the afternoon, passing a socked in St. Andrews Lake. However, by the time I was climbing to Emerald Ridge, things had dried out for some nice views below the cloud layer. This respite from moisture came to a screeching halt with the crossing of Kautz Creek, a knee deep, short but rushing silt laden torrent. Thankfully this occurred before nightfall, as navigation through this area is not well marked. Although I have high familiarity with the trail, some of these river crossings change dramatically year to year so past reference is sometimes irrelevant and can actually lead me astray (“well, this is where it USED to be”). By the time I reached the dreaded sign atop Rampart Ridge announcing that there’s still 2 miles to Longmire, my shoes had at least stopped making squishing noises. Thankfully there was no damage to my feet. Another Wonderland was in the books!

Sky reflection in Kiya Lake

August 19: Y(o)…DAY 4 (31 miles/8,400’) I left Longmire after two down days with the hopes that the weather would cooperate for the CW loop. This first day proved to be good, in that there was no rain. The lack of views of the mountain was not a deterrent to the cool views below the cloud bases. The skies were opening up a bit and I enjoyed a fabulous sunset at Golden Lakes, chatting it up with 4 men taking in the ambience after their swim. I bid them adieu and trotted off for the South Mowich River camp, knowing that it would be dark by the time I transited the Mowich River crossing. At least this time I knew where the bridges were from just a few days ago, and there were no problems making my way to the camp. I settled in at site 2 in my cozy bivy setup, and even woke to a moon shining through the trees early in the morning. It looked like it was going to be a good day!

Aurora Lake, Klapatche Park

August 20: DAY 5 (30 miles/9,200’) Sure, it started out OK, with a good temperature and dry conditions on the climb to Mowich Lake. I donned my Rocky Socks in anticipation of gross brush from Ipsut Pass. As I was talking to my video camera about how the only thing that could be worse than the wet brush soaking my legs, sometimes obscuring the feet grabbing wet rocks hidden beneath, would be if it were raining. Bingo! Here comes the rain, and once in the forest I donned all my rain gear, including pogies and rain pants, which I seldom wear (or pack, for that matter). I figured the rain pants would help dry my soaked pants underneath, and this proved to be true; body heat did the trick. But I can’t stand wearing rain pants and took them off at the bottom of the descent, figuring I’d rather just deal with wet legs. I didn’t take many photos the entire day as I was damp…all the time. Hiking in the middle of a cloud made for 100 foot views. I hit Skyscraper Pass while it was still light but turned on the headlamp at Frozen Lake, feeling the damage that was being done to my feet from being wet all day. The Rocky Socks work well, I’ve used them for years, but internal moisture builds up over 16 hours and maceration was taking its toll. When I arrived at White River I knew I could not continue with the blisters that had started to form, especially over 33 miles and another wet day. I had to call it. A buddy of mine was there and the next day he gave me a ride back to Longmire.

Mystic Lake; typical views for most of day 5 of my YoYo attempt

The crappy weather plaguing the area finally came to an end with a good forecast from August 28th on. I made my plans to finish off that last section and drove to the park on Tuesday, August 27th and secured 4 nights at Cougar Rock Campground, which is just shy of two miles from Longmire. I walked down to Longmire on the Wonderland for a coffee stop and WiFi check, which technically covered that last bit of the Wonderland that I would miss by being at Cougar Rock. The plan: bike from Cougar Rock the next day to White River, get some sleep, and hike that final section from White River to Cougar Rock the following day.

My vintage mountain bike used for positioning from Cougar Rock campground to White River

August 28: Positioning DAY (47 miles/5,600’) Timing was a factor for this bike trip; I did not want to be on the roads after dark, plus I did not want to be entering the White River entrance before the 3 PM timed entry cutoff. Bicycles are exempt from the timed entry, but it is uncool to ride to the head of the line and I didn’t want to spend time in a queue. Therefore I slept in and left at 11:30 AM, figuring it would take about 6 hours to cover the distance based on prior experience (RIMROBOD). I was using my vintage Gary Fisher mountain bike (for leaving in the woods) and I had the extra weight of minimal overnight gear and 2 days of food. The timing, however, was spot on and I entered the park around 5:30 PM. After finding a suitable spot shy of White River where I could park (for the retrieval) and stash the bike, I walked up to White River. Thumb twiddling and napping ensued until I finally set off just past 4 AM for the hike.

Morning alpenglow at Summerland

August 29: White River to Cougar Rock Campground (31 miles/7,300’) What a difference gorgeous weather makes. DRY feet, crisp air, alpenglow and sunrise. I was closing in on Summerland around 6 AM with the mountain dressed in pinkness, revealing just a little more as I climbed higher. No one was astir, so I had the views to myself. I’ve always maintained that some of the best experiences on the trail are those off times, early and late, when most backpackers are in their tents. The sun was finally cresting when I went over Panhandle Gap, and my transit across Ohanapecosh Park was sublime. This was making up for all the misery and wetness I had experienced prior, and it was still morning! Essentially I breezed through the day, my legs hardened with all the elevation gains and losses accumulated over the prior month, both on trail and in the saddle. I hiked the portion between Maple Creek camp and Reflection Lakes with a newfound trail buddy, Sarah. This distracted both of us from the long climb involved in that section, and Sarah was glad to have me along for negotiating the bypass of the recurring washout area. We parted ways as she departed for Snow Lake; the only downer after that were the scores of people ignoring the ropes at Reflection Lake and tromping all over the shoreline. Otherwise, my earlier prediction of arriving before dark was spot on, ending with me having at beer at my camp spot picnic table whilst waiting for the hot water to gin up in the van, done at 7:15 PM. I had Wonderland Trail #37 in the books, albeit not exactly according to my YoYo plans. Nevertheless, this was truly one of the most interesting outings I’ve had in the park, for many different reasons. Happy Hiking everyone!

Wonderland Trail 2010: the "selfie" 3 day hike

I was an early adopter of helmet cams, and was excited to get hold of one of the first Contour 1080P cameras, back when Contour was VHoldR. This whole series was shot at 60fps, and in those days the best quality at this higher frame rate was 720p, which is what this video is authored in. There was an interesting article in the Seattle Times on the Centennial of Mt. Rainier National Park, "100 things to know."

86. Unverified fact: The original selfie stick was a camera mounted to a trekking pole during a 2012 Wonderland Trail expedition.

Well, the selfie stick is credited in the 1980s to Hiroshi Ueda, who worked for Minolta. And assuming they were referencing me, then they were off by two years. But I recently rediscovered these clips and decided to put them together, offering a unique view of the trail. In my recent Wonderland video for #34, I turned the camera on me but once. Times have changed. On another note, my current 3 day transits of the Wonderland are right in line with 12 years ago and even 30 years ago, time wise, so lucky I am! I hope you enjoy! Music by williswall.

Wonderland Trail in 3 Days (#34): Sep 7-9/2022

My annual Wonderland trek is more than just a hike; it's a life event where I immerse myself in the surroundings and go through all the ups and downs (literally), the highs and the lows, the elation and downright pure suffering that comes with such long days. Also, by doing this one particular hike every year I can gauge how my body and mind are coping with advancing age (now 67). This year offered up a full plate; it wasn't as easy as 2021, where I waltzed around with no particular problems. This year I didn't have the hiking resume but thankfully my aerobic fitness was good thanks to lots of cycling. Daily stats are from Strava.

Day 1: Longmire to White River (34 miles/8468' elev) After acquiring a walk up permit the day prior, I started out just before 5 AM on Wednesday heading CCW. Highlights of the day: Reflection Lake early morning with beautiful skies, the usual incredible views from the Cowlitz Divide, with the sublime environment of Ohanapecosh Park in the late afternoon approaching Panhandle Gap. I had prehydrated my dinner and sat just above Summerland to chow down, which is when I discovered I had left my filter somewhere behind. I am doing the Invisalign teeth thing so I'm having to take those in and out whenever I eat, using the filter to rinse frequently. Luckily I had cell service so called my steadfast buddy who would deliver a filter to me at the Fryingpan Creek trailhead at 9 PM. I still felt good enough to actually run from Summerland to the trailhead, arriving at 8:45 with enough time to clean my feet and ready myself for sleep. My buddy arrived right on time and gave me a ride the short distance up to White River, where I threw down my bivy for the night.

Sunset below Panhandle Gap

Day 2: White River to Mowich Lake (31 miles/7,504' elev) In sum, this was not a good day. All night I felt slightly nauseous and got little sleep. I started the climb to Sunrise feeling decidedly unstrong. Finally, I vomited up the prior evening's undigested meal. At Sunrise I was able to eat a little and drink some water, but the rest of the day was playing catch up for my body. The filter was old and put out but a trickle, so I finally decided to fill a bottle with unfiltered water so I could use Tailwind and try to catch up on hydrating. Since I had gone over Spray Park in 2021, I elected to take the lower route and head up to Mowich Lake via Ipsut Pass. This was the lowest point I've experienced in a long time; the trail is downright crappy, steep, brushy and rocky. I was struggling to make the top, with many an epithet spewing forth from my Invisaligned pie hole. Because of the harder day than expected, I could not make my intended destination of the South Mowich River camp, which did not bode well for day 3, the hardest part of the route. I bedded down and dealt with chilly temperatures in my light bivy and 40 degree quilt.

Flowers hanging on in September on the Wonderland Trail

Day 3: Mowich Lake to Longmire (39 miles/8,902' elev) On the trail just after 5 had me feeling more normal; I was finally recovering from the prior day. The climb up to Golden Lakes went well and I felt good the rest of the day, trotting the descents and machine like on the subsequent climbs to Klapatche Park, Emerald Ridge and Indian Henry's. The weather was fine but starting to get some smoke, which thankfully doesn't bother me. Klapatche Park was deserted, and I correctly guessed that most of the night's residents were either not there yet or hanging at St Andrews Lake, since Aurora "Lake" was dry. Sure enough, when I arrived at St Andrews Lake there were a few people scattered around enjoying the environs, including me. I proceeded to soak my feet and splash water on my legs and face. This was a nice pick me up and I departed for the South Puyallup, which came quickly as the trail was ripe for trotting. I had assumed that I would be transiting Emerald Ridge in the dark but got lucky in the timing; I was sans headlamp until departing the ridge. There was just enough light provided by the reflecting mountain. This was also the first time I had seen mountain goats in this area, a special treat. It's these early and late times on the trail that offer up unique experiences every time I go out. We all hike our own hike, but I am not much for camping and prefer to be on trail the majority of the day for these very reasons. I also quite enjoy hiking at night, which on this day proved to be too much enjoyment. I still had to descend to the suspension bridge over Tahoma Creek, climb up to Indian Henry's and descend to cross both Kautz and Pyramid Creeks before dropping down to Longmire. Good thing I am familiar with these areas as crossing at night can be somewhat difficult with lack of clues, cairns or tape. In retrospect I was really glad I didn't have to cross the Carbon at night because that whole area was a mess.

At Rampart Ridge the sign says 2 miles to Longmire, which elicited an "Oh f%$k me" after GPS said I had already done 37 miles, but I finally staggered into the parking lot just past 1 AM. Aside from ultras, this was the longest single day push I had done in quite a few years, but I was glad I was able to pull it off. I am so lucky that my health and mechanics are still going strong as I approach 70, enabling me to hit it hard like 30 years ago. Someday I may have to lengthen my trips...but not today.

The following video is a chronicle of my 34th transit of the Wonderland Trail in Mt. Rainier National Park. As usual I rely heavily on a shoulder mounted GoPro Hero 9 with Max lens for video, and my iPhone 13 for photos and video. My advanced age shows in my methods of composition; one only sees my talking head once in the entire piece, I have no vertical video, and the viewing time is 38 minutes. Enjoy!

Wonderland Trail in 3 Days: Jul 20-22/2021 (#33)

Once again I am thankful to be healthy enough to pull off another 3 day transit of Mt. Rainier’s Wonderland Trail. Most of my past Wonderland hikes have been in the fall, so this circuit in July provided some significant contrasts. The longer days meant I spent most of my trail time sans headlamp, putting in 14-15 hour days. I was able to get 6 hours of rest both nights. The flower show was sometimes astounding, with entire meadows carpeted with avalanche lilies and hillsides bursting with myriad colors. The temperatures were mild but not too cold at night; my minimalist fastpack kit was just right for the conditions. I was fit enough to enjoy less suffering than last year and more time enjoying my surroundings. It had been a while since I did a CCW route, so the views were fresh. I also chose the alternate route over Spray Park, last done in 2015. The climbs and descents were different. Everything about this hike was a delight with the exception of occasional periods of persistent mosquitos, something I avoided in my fall hikes. Another downside: trail maintenance on the west side of the mountain was lacking. I encountered a fair number of blowdowns, some requiring crotch -stretching-bark burning gyrations to get around or under behemoth trees. The South Mowich River crossing was still lacking a bridge, requiring a ford (assisted by a steel cable strung across). With the rivers running higher as the day progressed, this posed a problem for people crossing the river later in the day. I crossed at 5:30 AM with mid shin depth, but one report from 8 PM had the water over the cable.

Avalanche lilies along the Wonderland Trail

For my almost 40 years in the park the stats for the Wonderland have been 93 miles with 22,000’ of climb/descent; this is what I based my days on. However, after tracking with GPS and Strava for a few years, the numbers for myself (and others reported on line) consistently come in higher. My totals were 101 miles with over 25,000’ of climb for the 3 days. I sometimes question the accuracy of Strava but I mention it here for people who are using these tools for tracking. My Strava stats: Day 1: Longmire to White River (CCW)-34.77 miles/8,787’…..Day 2: White River to So. Mowich River Camp-31.64 miles/8,198’…..Day 3: So. Mowich River Camp to Longmire-34.91 miles/8,720’. Adjust accordingly to mitigate surprises.

See my previous blog article for my kit….with food I guestimate 13 pounds. I never needed to carry more than 20 ozs of water, always spiked with Tailwind; the mild temperatures surely helped with this, as there were only a few periods where I was actually sweating. I judge myself to be in decent shape from hiking, biking and skiing. However, my legs were barking at the end of day 1 due to lack of downhill training. Otherwise I had no physical problems. My feet needed no attention and my pack was unnoticeable. Last year in my video of hike #32 I made the statement “maybe these 3 day hikes will become untenable”…. this will surely happen as I get older but I am encouraged by the fact that, at age 66, this was probably my best 3 day hike since the 90’s. For this I am thankful and look forward to next year’s Wonderland Trail Hike #34, whatever form that may take. Happy Hiking!

Mt. Rainier NP: Wonderland Trail hike #32 (9/11-13/2020)

The Wonderland Trail, my old friend, with so many memories associated with it over the years. This year’s hike of the Wonderland, which I count as number 32, was very reminiscent of the series of hikes I did in the 90’s….segmenting each day into approximately 30 milers, although going clockwise getting the meat of the climbs on day 1 (8000’ or so). When starting at Longmire and going clockwise, this means over nighting on day one between Golden Lakes and the North Mowich River camp, then night number two at White River. After so may times doing this hike, each milestone I pass triggers memories of prior hikes. I’ve seen changes over the years, even remembering certain log bridges that have deteriorated, aging naturally as all things do. Could this be my last 3 day Wonderland hike? Make no mistake, covering over 30 miles per day on this trail is strenuous and takes a toll on not just one’s body, but also one’s ability to endure. Maybe not for the trail runners I met along the way, young and fit and covering the same distance each day in many hours less. I had to chuckle thinking that my 17 hour days were what it took the latest FKT runners to do the whole trail. I think there’s something in my makeup that embraces the hardship and difficulties of an endeavor like this, and after just one day of recovery I am already thinking of how I can better prepare for next year’s Wonderland hike #33.

View from Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, Mt. Rainier

Day 1: Cougar Rock to North Mowich River camp. I started with high hopes of better fitness than in more recent years, having about 300 miles of hiking and 50,000 feet of climbing in August alone, not to mention I have been running during Covid. I started at 5 AM and immediately started down memory lane, coming to the sign at Longmire pointing in each direction. At this point I make a mental note of every river crossing and the changes that have occurred over 35 years, Kautz creek being one example. When I filmed the entire trail in 2012, the river had changed course recently and there was little growth in the plain. Now, alders are 30 feet high and the area is getting choked with underbrush. The bridges I crossed are now discarded, mired in silt and rocks, lonely in their isolation and uselessness. The day progressed with passing all the usual milestones; Devils Dream Camp (just a few campers at 8 AM), Squaw Lake, and the mandatory stop at Indian Henry’s ranger cabin. The rest of the day unfolded with the suspension bridge over Tahoma Creek and transits of Emerald Ridge, the South Puyallup and the climb through St. Andrews Park and some lingering at St. Andrews Lake. Smoke and obscured views would be the norm for this hike. When I stopped at Klapatche Park, it was deserted. Aurora Lake had but a mud puddle in the middle, perhaps refuge for any remaining amphibia. In November last I stood on this lake completely frozen, and I couldn’t help but remember Cassie’s and my transit here at 8 PM some years ago where she was recognized by someone from Chicago. I don’t get that anymore; in past years I would do updates on the Wonderland and almost every year I would get the “Hey, are you Willis Wall?” Now I transit the trail anonymously, and that’s OK with me. On this hike I counted 19 trail runners, more than I have seen over 35 years combined. It’s becoming a thing, I guess, and with the lack of walk up permits this year it’s the only way to do the trail legally without advance permits. Exactly what I did. I did run into a ranger as I was leaving Golden Lakes on Friday night, and we chatted a bit. She told me that the North Mowich River camp wasn’t full and if I needed to stay there (vice going to Mowich Lake) it would be OK. So I did, and when I arrived (after night navigation over the cobbled together Mowich river crossing) the shelter was empty. Perfect for my bivy setup. Plus I had stayed here many times in the past, and nostalgia was in the air.

St. Andrews Lake, Mt. Rainier

Silver Forest, this time with day light

Day 2: North Mowich River camp to White River. I should mention what I had for equipment….I used my Zimmerbuilt custom Big Step pack, a Klymit 3/4 length pad, a Borah Gear Cuben Bivy (4.7 ozs) and a Nunatak 40 degree quilt. I carried the original version of the Zpacks pocket tarp (3 ozs) and some stakes for safety, although the weather forecast over my 3 day hike was for no rain. My go to jacket is an OR hooded Polartech Alpha Ascendant, plus I had spare socks, hat and misc. clothing items. I’m always wearing some iteration of Inov8 trail runners. What with food and and a filled 24 oz water bottle, my total pack weight was somewhere around 10-12 pounds. This light pack weight is one of the key reasons I can pull off this kind of endeavor at my age. So with another 5 AM start, I transited Mowich Lake….fairly full campground, and the most people I had seen. One of the reasons was the supported groups of trail runners all stayed here, and there were some Wonderland backpackers also in the dedicated spots…not my first choice for sure. When I reached Ipsut Pass the smoke was thicker than the day before and views were even more indistinct. I had a nice chat with one of the trail runners (waiting for his 3 partners to catch up) at the junction at 2600’. They passed me somewhere on the climb past the Carbon suspension bridge, not to be seen again. They promised me a beer at White River but I arrived too late to find their van. It’s a long climb up to Mystic Pass from 2600’ to 6000’, but the pain ends with the transition to Moraine Park. Usually there’s a fantastic view of the mountain here, but my namesake Willis Wall, and in fact the whole mountain, was absent in the background. Weird. The rest of the afternoon rolled by with me arriving at Skyscraper Pass while it was still light, yet weirdly eerie with the barest outline of the mountain visible through the smoke and layered vistas. I was alone, Saturday night…in September….transiting the area as it became dark, seeing no one near Sunrise or Sunrise camp. I made my way in the darkness down to White River, once again arriving at 10 PM. Now, my usual place to bivy here is on the side porch of the cabin, but, of course, the entire cabin was cordoned off due to renovations. Right next door, however, was an empty campsite with a nice picnic table and a bear locker. Brings to mind the time I stayed here years ago, on a picnic table, staring up at a blazing star show. I laid out my bivy on the picnic table, putting two rocks on either side. I did not want a recurrence of a few years ago when I fell off a table when orbiting Mt. Baker. Not a good feeling, waking up whist airborne and smashing into the ground in your cocoon. This is one of the reasons I brought the Klymit pad, as it’s wider than the NeoAir and is much harder to roll off. Once the twitchy legs settled down I slept soundly, awaking at 4:30 AM.

Day 2: Mowich Lake, Mt. Rainier

Eerie Mystic Lake in the smoke

Layers from Skyscraper Pass

Day 3: White River to Cougar Rock. There’s a sign advising hikers to use the alternate route down the road vice the log bridge over the White River. I think this is due in part to the fatality this year of the person crossing the Mowich River on a sketchy bridge that was awash on one end (with no handrail). However, I had confidence that the bridge was OK at 5 AM and indeed, was no problem. Most people don’t realize that it was only a matter of some years ago that the log bridge over the Carbon, and the trail paralleling the river to Fryingpan Creek, was built. Wonderland hikers always had to walk down the road, cross the bridge, and then take a short connector trail to the Wonderland (if you’re wondering why that trail is there). I think I discovered this around 2005 when I was filming for my Wonderland DVD. Well, it’s a beautiful manicured trail up to Summerland, and when I arrived there….it was empty. On Sunday morning in the middle of September. When I left I ran into another group of trail runners that I had seen the day before, and we yo-yo’d until sometime after Panhandle Gap…devoid of snow. Soon after they whisked away and were not to be seen again by this old man. Oh, to move like that. The worst part of the day was enduring the incessant down steps to Indian Bar. You better hope your knees are up to the task, even with poles. When I arrived at Indian Bar there was a group of backpackers enjoying the shelter and I chatted with them. They had stayed at Summerland and were heading for Maple Creek, and in fact I saw them the rest of the day. I was having dinner at Maple Creek when they arrived, around 5:30 PM. Guess I wasn’t moving as quickly as I thought I was, with my 10 pound pack vice their 30 pounders. After Maple Creek it was the “Final Fog” of finishing the trail, climbing out of Stevens Canyon. I always underestimate the length and the difficulty of this climb to Reflection Lake….which was deserted….on Sunday afternoon/night in the middle of September. Just unusual. The Fog: watching footing on the descent with a very rooty trail, waiting for the “pipe” to appear signifying the approach to the Nisqually River, feeling the air change as a way of gauging one’s closeness. I had to chuckle crossing the bridge to the Nisqually; there was a mouse on the bridge, trapped by this towering biped. I stepped back and encouraged him to continue on to the safety of terra firma. Reminded me of the time I stepped aside to let a deer pass on the North Puyallup trail. Or the time I had to gingerly pass a bear on the Cowlitz Divide with little room on either side, who was thankfully too engrossed with eating blueberries. Or the time I was sitting on a rock in Moraine Park in mist and was passed, within 10 feet, by an elk and calf. And the time I turned 8 Y/O Cassie around In Spray Park, telling her “look!” as a cinnamon bear ran past us. Why do I come back to the Wonderland after doing it so many times? The memories are etched in my soul to the point it has become part of me. As the years pass I may have to adjust my itineraries, but I can’t imagine not coming back to this trail and this park; until I can’t.

Click Here for the video journal of my 2020 Wonderland Trail hike.

The Green Tarn above Summerland, Mt. Rainier

The Wonderland Trail on Sep 13, 2020

Ohanapecosh Glaciers, above Indian Bar, Mt. Rainier

Wonderland Trail Hike #31

I make no claims of hiking the Wonderland Trail more than anyone else, but surely I must be close. From my first hike in 1987 to my latest finisher, the Wonderland for me is a chronicle of my ventures into backpacking and the evolution of gear and experience. I’ve missed some years, and other years I’ve transited the Wonderland multiple times…witness 2012, where I hiked it 2.5 times to time lapse every foot of the trail. My last full transit was in 2015, where I enjoyed pristine weather over 3 days. This year I had a mind to hike the trail in under 48 hours, but was thwarted by increasing fatigue. However, altogether 2018 proved to be one of the most memorable hikes I’ve had over the past 35 years.

Goats encountered as I near Sunrise on the September Wonderland section hike.

Starting at Longmire on September 4th, I embarked on a fastpack attempt to cover the 93 miles in under 48 hours. I had spent some time in the park to this point as I was working on hiking every trail I had yet to set foot on, so felt relatively prepared. My plan was to hike clockwise from Longmire to cover the hardest section first so I could “cruise” the last 30 miles or so. Although I made good time with the numerous ups and downs, I slowed so much on the final climbs approaching Sunrise that I determined that I shouldn’t continue on. To that point I had hiked 57 miles and climbed 16,000 feet, taking a 3 hour nap in the process. However, I determined that there would be no “cruise” of the final 36 miles and 6,000 feet of climb so arranged (via InReach) for my buddy to pick me up at Sunrise. At that time I figured that would be that, as vacations and work would preclude me finishing the trail with decreasing weather windows. But then…..

Through the Looking Glass; Mt. Rainier Reflection turned upside down in Reflection Lake.

The Pacific Northwest enjoyed unseasonably good weather for over a week, and I was home for the end of it, October 21-22. Spur of the moment I decided to finish the trail by self supporting via bike, where I would bike from Longmire to Box Canyon and hike back on day 1, then reposition to Box Canyon on day 2, bike to Fryingpan Creek trail head and hike back. I had already been on the sections between Fryingpan Creek and Sunrise during the summer whilst engaged in other hikes. So on a beautiful Sunday morning I drove to Longmire and started biking at 8:25 AM, covering 18 miles and climbing 2224 feet to stash my bike in the forest at Box Canyon. Once again I called on my vintage Gary Fisher mountain bike vice my newer and considerably more expensive wheels as I was leaving the steed in the trees for essentially two days.

Stevens Canyon Road bike view descending to Box Canyon.

In the past I've described this section of the Wonderland as the least enjoyable, with overgrown brush and road noise from across the canyon. Today was a different day, and I immersed myself in my lonely surroundings. It's not often I'm hiking in this kind of weather but being surrounded by the last gasps of the flora as winter approaches. Peak color was gone, and the golden under story I had enjoyed just a few weeks prior had essentially vanished. However, the last gasp of the forest was intriguing in its own right and was a subtle reminder of the life cycles that affect every living organism. So instead of enduring this part of the trail like I had so many times before, I found myself reveling in this walk in the woods, completely immersed. This is a special feeling...perhaps the core of why I enjoy being outside. Before I knew it I was at Longmire with plenty of time to clean up, eat dinner and still be sound asleep in my truck before 8 PM. I slept until 6 AM...does it get much better? Hiking stats: 14 miles/2646’ elevation. Day totals: 32 miles/4870’ elev.

End of Wonderland second section….back at Longmire.

After sleeping for 10 hours, I drove to Box Canyon and retrieved my bike. Today would be a longer endeavor, so I was glad to start an hour earlier at 7:25 AM. Aside from feeling a bit tired on the long climb to Cayuse Pass, I was satisfied with the enjoyable bike ride, including the 1,000 foot fast descent to the White River entrance to the park. 30 miles and 3,700’ elevation climb later I deposited my bike in the woods and took to ambulation. I had approximately 17 miles of hiking ahead and my start at noon at first had me concerned about schedule, but then I realized I had no schedule….if I could make the Cowlitz Divide before dark then I could enjoy most of the view portion of the day in daylight. With a single layer on top I sometimes felt like I was hiking in the summer, so mild were the conditions. It was only the low angled light and sometimes frozen sections of trail that reminded me of the lateness of the season. Although I passed a few returning day hikers on the ascent, when I arrived at Summerland it was deserted. Sans marmots and flowers, the still bubbling creek, brown meadows and complete solitude made for a rare experience in such a popular and accessible alpine destination. I lounged on a rock for a snack break, soaking in the stillness. Then I was off for the moonscape leading to Panhandle Gap, the highest spot on the Wonderland Trail at 6,800 feet. Aside from meeting two returning day hikers below the Gap, the rest of this day would be in solitude. There were a few icy sections leading to the Gap that necessitated careful footwork, but after that the transit to Indian Bar was delightful in afternoon sun casting shadows on “rock gardens” while the meadows of Banshee glowed pink as the day wore on. Indian Bar was also deserted, reminding me that I had the Wonderland Trail to myself this late in the season. I transited point 5920 on the Cowlitz Divide as it was awash in alpenglow, watching the sun set behind me while the almost full moon rose to my left. Eventually I had to turn on my headlamp before 7 PM but only spent about 2 hours in the dark, descending through old growth forest with light from the moon spotlighting singular patches through the canopy tangle. So engrossed with my surroundings was I that I was surprised to emerge at Box Canyon and my waiting vehicle, almost sorry the day had ended. The hike portion of this day entailed 17.5 miles with 4,800 feet of elevation. Total Stats for the day: 47.5 miles/8,500’ elev.

Transiting the Cowlitz Divide on my Wonderland 3rd section.

I almost skipped finishing the trail this year with the thought that, “Yeah, been there done that.” But once again I was reminded that no matter how many times I visit this old friend, new delights will surely come my way. By self supporting these loops, I also got to enjoy these two modes of travel, reveling in 35 MPH descents and trotting through old growth forest and the moonscape of Panhandle Gap. These last two days involved traveling 79 miles with 13,400’ of elevation gain/loss, all for covering the last 30 miles of trail and 6,000 feet. I wouldn’t change a thing, so now I’m looking forward to #32.

Panhandle Gap.

A reminder that it’s October 22nd on the Wonderland Trail.

The snowless path from Panhandle Gap to Indian Bar: Wonderland Trail

Wonderland Trail Fastpack

fall on the Wonderland near Box Canyon

The weather had finally turned back to what might be considered more typical September Northwest fare, that of clear crisp days and generally ideal conditions. I decided spur of the moment to take advantage of these conditions on some days off to cap off this season with a thru hike of Mt. Rainier's Wonderland Trail. Yes, I know I have spent some time in the Mt. Rainier environs this season, but I haven't actually done a continuous Wonderland hike since 2009 for various reasons. My fitness was peaking, my gear was dialed in, and it didn't take me long to pack for this trip, planning on a max of 3 days with an open itinerary. Now, I've been a good boy and acquired permits for the park when needed this year, but for this trip it really wasn't necessary...I was playing it by ear, so to speak. I planned on perhaps stopping the first night at Mowich Lake campground, which is self registering and car accessible. Wonderland Trail Fastpack photo set

the mountain from Kautz Creek

Day 1, September 29: Longmire to Mowich Lake (35 miles/9500' elevation gain)

I started hiking at 8:15 AM from Longmire heading Clockwise on a trail so familiar by now (I have hiked the Wonderland about 30 times) that I wonder why I even bother packing a map. On this trip I took more documentary photos, meaning more diligence capturing creek crossings like Kautz and Pyramid, to compare to earlier years and as reference for the future. As an example, I reviewed video taken after the floods when I hiked the trail in 2007 and these crossings were completely devoid of any vegetation, yet now have alders growing at a rapid rate. The sky was completely clear and as usual I stopped at the ranger cabin at Indian Henry's Hunting Ground for a break and some chow. With this season having been so far ahead from the beginning (reference my hike on June 9/10) I found that fall colors are fading fast and most of the area looks ready for winter, with brown being the predominent hue. However, vibrant patches of reds and golds could still be found on this hike and I made sure to capture them on camera. Today reminded me how much I love hiking in the fall, despite shorter days and more reliance on night hiking when undertaking a trip of this length and difficulty where my days were expected to be in the vicinity of 17 hours. Luckily my body cooperated over the 5 significant climbs that would chacterize this first day, enabling me to enjoy all aspects of the reasons I get outdoors....physical toil, mental rejuvenation, smells and sounds and sights all rolled into one. I especially enjoyed the section transiting St. Andrews Park, despite temperatures that bordered on hot. I was amazed to see that there was still some water in Aurora Lake at Klapatche Park, although I suspect that it had been repumped by more recent rains and inclement weather preceeding my hike, rather than being left over from the entire season. After a significant break here I continued my 2500 foot drop down to the North Puyallup where it was time for...big surprise...another snack break. I tried to eat about every hour and a half to provide a steady stream of calories for this undertaking. From here I started yet another climb to Silver Forest, a place to gauge my progress based on sunset at this time of year. I determined that I was actually ahead of hikes I did even 20 years ago so was pleasantly pleased how I was holding up to this point. However, before the slight descent to Golden Lakes I had to turn on the lights and enjoyed glimpses of the glow of Tacoma from this side of the mountain. Many times I have stopped at Golden Lakes (25 miles to this point), especially if I'm doing a 4 day hike, but I forged on and committed to the 2500 foot drop to the South and North Mowich Rivers, which I transited (obviously) in the dark. As I passed the Mowich River Camp I noted that this would be my usual stopping point for a 3 day hike, but tonight I continued the grind up to the Mowich Lake camp, another 2300 foot climb and the last for the day. When I arrived at Mowich Lake I laid out my bivy on the concrete pad where the (empty) trash cans were, stashed my food in a food locker, used the vault toilet to clean up and bedded down at 1 AM, with my alarm set for 6.

hiker on the Tahoma Creek suspension bridge

Day 2, September 30: Mowich Lake to White River (25 miles/6000' elevation gain)

low angle sun near Skyscraper Pass sets the meadow aglow

As usual I missed my alarm and woke up to already light skies, but managed to get on the trail by 7:30 AM. There were a few cars in the lot and one tent set up in this most inglorious campground. I took physical stock on the trail and was pleased that my legs were cooperating nicely as I started out on the first miles. Mowich Lake was like glass and when I reached Ipsut Pass the sun was blazing on the rock faces and setting the gold bushes aglow. One of the benefits of doing this trail in the fall is one doesn't have to contend with trail disguising overhanging brush, so my descent into the forest proper was accomplished without hidden rock obstacles causing near face plants. The hike through the old growth was back in cool shade and abundant with flowing water and waterfalls, quite pleasant indeed. What's not pleasant is noting how much elevation I was losing, bottoming out at 2400 feet elevation, as I knew a steady 3600 foot grind-climb to Mystic Pass was in my immediate future. I had to remind myself that this trail throws all kinds of obstacles to pleasantness at you...rocks, roots, huge steps up and down, gravel over rock, muddy trail and so on, and this is just part of the agreement. Suck it up and enjoy the surroundings, and that's exactly what I did. This proved to be another warmish day and I welcomed the less heat producing trek down from Mystic Pass, stopping again at Mystic Lake for another break. On this occasion the sun was beating on my face but I didn't mind and enjoyed the gently lapping waves on the miniature beach as I munched away. This season I've been on this section 4 times already but no matter, familiarity is not a detriment to enjoyment. After a quick stop at Granite Creek camp I predicted that I would be able to transit most of the area around Skyscraper Pass when it was still light, and this proved to be. Near Skyscraper Pass the area above treeline absolutely glowed golden in the low angled sunlight for a scene I hadn't witnessed before. Even after 30 times I can always count on pleasant surprises. But as the sun set, my lack of sleep over the past 3 days was catching up with me, manifesting itself with this strange urge to lie down and take a little nap. At this point, before Sunrise, I decided to stop for the evening at White River after only 25 miles and just sleep as long as I needed. It was still rather early for me and I set out my bivy on the side porch of the White River cabin at 10 PM and closed my eyes.

Day 3, October 1: White River to Longmire (33 miles/6100' elevation gain)

one of the best vistas in the park: the area above Indian Bar

The skies were light when I awoke, but that was OK as I finally felt rested. No one was to be seen, the campground was closed and there were only 2 cars in the overnight parking lot. However, the facilities were locked and the water was shut off, so I had to go to the still open vault toilet at the campground entrance for my morning chores. I expected this and still had plenty of water so I cleaned up and headed off for the high country, hitting the trail at 7:30 AM once again. I knew I had a long day ahead of me as I wasn't able to capitalize on my extra mileage on day 1 (for a 3 day trip) due to my short day yesterday. Once I started up the trail I knew my decision was a good one as my body and mind were showing their appreciation for some recovery time. As expected, I ran into some day hikers around Summerland and even Panhandle Gap, but once beyond there I had the trail to myself. Besides, I had pleasant conversation with some and this is all part of the Wonderland experience. It was warm again but I certainly wasn't going to complain, considering the weather my daughter and I contended with in August and the first part of September. I was reminded once again that no lens can capture the grandeur of some of the vistas along the trail, in this case an overlook (above 6000 feet) of the Ohanapecosh valley leading to Indian Bar, hearing the distant whoosh of the cascading myriad waterfalls marking the headwaters of the Ohanapecosh River. An inspiring sight indeed. I noted some further wandering of the river as I neared Indian Bar and took refuge from the sun in the newly shake-clad cool stone shelter there. For some time I had the place to myself until two lads showed up who were doing 59 national parks in 59 weeks, truly a very cool trip. We enjoyed some pleasant banter for awhile but then I was off to finish up another 21 miles for the day. At least the remainder of the trail was benign by Wonderland standards and I made it past Box Canyon still under natural light. Perhaps the one thing I regret about doing Stevens Canyon in the dark is missing the fall colors of the understory, usually fantastic here at this time of year. However, it seems my recompense was Reflection Lake, where a low cloud deck quickly parted to reveal the moon's reflection glistening on the water with both the original and copy surrounded by an orange halo. I enjoyed this in complete solitude despite being right next to the road. After this it was a matter of lasting to the end without my old bod blowing up from the strenuous days behind me, arriving at my vehicle at exactly 1 AM, very satisfied that I could still pull off a 3 day Wonderland hike more than twenty years after I did my first.

If you'd like to read my thoughts on doing this at age 60, go here.

a different reflection on Reflection Lake