Wonderland Trail Hike #31

I make no claims of hiking the Wonderland Trail more than anyone else, but surely I must be close. From my first hike in 1987 to my latest finisher, the Wonderland for me is a chronicle of my ventures into backpacking and the evolution of gear and experience. I’ve missed some years, and other years I’ve transited the Wonderland multiple times…witness 2012, where I hiked it 2.5 times to time lapse every foot of the trail. This year I had a mind to hike the trail in under 48 hours, but was thwarted by increasing fatigue. However, altogether 2018 proved to be one of the most memorable hikes I’ve had over the past 35 years.

Goats encountered as I near Sunrise on the September Wonderland section hike.

Starting at Longmire on September 4th, I embarked on a fastpack attempt to cover the 93 miles in under 48 hours. I had spent some time in the park to this point as I was working on hiking every trail I had yet to set foot on, so felt relatively prepared. My plan was to hike clockwise from Longmire to cover the hardest section first so I could “cruise” the last 30 miles or so. Although I made good time with the numerous ups and downs, I slowed so much on the final climbs approaching Sunrise that I determined that I shouldn’t continue on. To that point I had hiked 57 miles and climbed 16,000 feet, taking a 3 hour nap in the process. However, I determined that there would be no “cruise” of the final 36 miles and 6,000 feet of climb so arranged (via InReach) for my buddy to pick me up at Sunrise. At that time I figured that would be that, as vacations and work would preclude me finishing the trail with decreasing weather windows. But then…..

Through the Looking Glass; Mt. Rainier Reflection turned upside down in Reflection Lake.

The Pacific Northwest enjoyed unseasonably good weather for over a week, and I was home for the end of it, October 21-22. Spur of the moment I decided to finish the trail by self supporting via bike, where I would bike from Longmire to Box Canyon and hike back on day 1, then reposition to Box Canyon on day 2, bike to Fryingpan Creek trail head and hike back. I had already been on the sections between Fryingpan Creek and Sunrise during the summer whilst engaged in other hikes. So on a beautiful Sunday morning I drove to Longmire and started biking at 8:25 AM, covering 18 miles and climbing 2224 feet to stash my bike in the forest at Box Canyon. Once again I called on my vintage Gary Fisher mountain bike vice my newer and considerably more expensive wheels as I was leaving the steed in the trees for essentially two days.

Stevens Canyon Road bike view descending to Box Canyon.

In the past I've described this section of the Wonderland as the least enjoyable, with overgrown brush and road noise from across the canyon. Today was a different day, and I immersed myself in my lonely surroundings. It's not often I'm hiking in this kind of weather but being surrounded by the last gasps of the flora as winter approaches. Peak color was gone, and the golden under story I had enjoyed just a few weeks prior had essentially vanished. However, the last gasp of the forest was intriguing in its own right and was a subtle reminder of the life cycles that affect every living organism. So instead of enduring this part of the trail like I had so many times before, I found myself reveling in this walk in the woods, completely immersed. This is a special feeling...perhaps the core of why I enjoy being outside. Before I knew it I was at Longmire with plenty of time to clean up, eat dinner and still be sound asleep in my truck before 8 PM. I slept until 6 AM...does it get much better? Hiking stats: 14 miles/2646’ elevation. Day totals: 32 miles/4870’ elev.

End of Wonderland second section….back at Longmire.

After sleeping for 10 hours, I drove to Box Canyon and retrieved my bike. Today would be a longer endeavor, so I was glad to start an hour earlier at 7:25 AM. Aside from feeling a bit tired on the long climb to Cayuse Pass, I was satisfied with the enjoyable bike ride, including the 1,000 foot fast descent to the White River entrance to the park. 30 miles and 3,700’ elevation climb later I deposited my bike in the woods and took to ambulation. I had approximately 17 miles of hiking ahead and my start at noon at first had me concerned about schedule, but then I realized I had no schedule….if I could make the Cowlitz Divide before dark then I could enjoy most of the view portion of the day in daylight. With a single layer on top I sometimes felt like I was hiking in the summer, so mild were the conditions. It was only the low angled light and sometimes frozen sections of trail that reminded me of the lateness of the season. Although I passed a few returning day hikers on the ascent, when I arrived at Summerland it was deserted. Sans marmots and flowers, the still bubbling creek, brown meadows and complete solitude made for a rare experience in such a popular and accessible alpine destination. I lounged on a rock for a snack break, soaking in the stillness. Then I was off for the moonscape leading to Panhandle Gap, the highest spot on the Wonderland Trail at 6,800 feet. Aside from meeting two returning day hikers below the Gap, the rest of this day would be in solitude. There were a few icy sections leading to the Gap that necessitated careful footwork, but after that the transit to Indian Bar was delightful in afternoon sun casting shadows on “rock gardens” while the meadows of Banshee glowed pink as the day wore on. Indian Bar was also deserted, reminding me that I had the Wonderland Trail to myself this late in the season. I transited point 5920 on the Cowlitz Divide as it was awash in alpenglow, watching the sun set behind me while the almost full moon rose to my left. Eventually I had to turn on my headlamp before 7 PM but only spent about 2 hours in the dark, descending through old growth forest with light from the moon spotlighting singular patches through the canopy tangle. So engrossed with my surroundings was I that I was surprised to emerge at Box Canyon and my waiting vehicle, almost sorry the day had ended. The hike portion of this day entailed 17.5 miles with 4,800 feet of elevation. Total Stats for the day: 47.5 miles/8,500’ elev.

Transiting the Cowlitz Divide on my Wonderland 3rd section.

I almost skipped finishing the trail this year with the thought that, “Yeah, been there done that.” But once again I was reminded that no matter how many times I visit this old friend, new delights will surely come my way. By self supporting these loops, I also got to enjoy these two modes of travel, reveling in 35 MPH descents and trotting through old growth forest and the moonscape of Panhandle Gap. These last two days involved traveling 79 miles with 13,400’ of elevation gain/loss, all for covering the last 30 miles of trail and 6,000 feet. I wouldn’t change a thing, so now I’m looking forward to #32.

Panhandle Gap.

A reminder that it’s October 22nd on the Wonderland Trail.

The snowless path from Panhandle Gap to Indian Bar: Wonderland Trail

Mt. Rainier All Trails Project

As I celebrate 35 years of wandering Mt. Rainier National Park, in contemplation I realized that I had not actually hiked every trail. With so many years of concentrating on long pushes like 3 day Wonderland Trail hikes or one day circuits of the Northern Loop Trail, I had bypassed spur trails like Natural Bridge or Chenuis Falls. My emphases on hiking long resulted in neglecting single purpose or non connected trails like Shriner Peak, Tolmie Peak, Eagle Peak….the list goes on. So this year I spread out the Green Trails map and the USGS map and made it my mission to set foot on every maintained trail (also dashed lined trails on the Green Trails maps) I had yet to visit. In the process I discovered new delights on every foray.

On the “35 Years in MRNP” pulldown, I have a gallery with a sample photo from nearly every trail (maintained) and dashed line (route, unofficial and unmaintained) trail in the park. There are a few that I had hiked in years past but have no photos. Specifically, Grindstone Trail (Mowich Lake), the Boundary Trail (Carbon River entrance and Mowich Lake road), the Snow Lake Trail (took my son there 20 years ago for an overnight) and Grove of the Patriarchs. It has been many years since I set foot on the Tahoma Creek Trail; despite frequent washouts it is still viable (unmaintained) and is accessed from the West Side Road.

A hiker overlooks Kautz Creek from Mildred Point

Park information lists 270 miles of trails in the confines of Mt. Rainier. If one adds the unmaintained trails and climber trails that lead to areas like Observation Rock, Pyramid Park and the Tatoosh range, to cite just a few, then this total would be much more. Although some of my trips in 2018 have been on familiar terrain, as of this writing I have hiked (and biked) 539 miles and climbed 111,000 feet. Here are some highlights of this season in my quest to set foot on every trail:

Longest single push: 57 miles/16,000’ (with 3 hour rest)

Longest bike day: 89 miles/10,200’

Worst weather day: West Side Road hike and bike with Gobblers Knob and Lake George

Most fun: my daughter and I bivied on Ptarmigan Ridge, climbed Echo/Observation/Hessong/Pleasant/Tolmie peaks and even enjoyed the above mentioned drenching on the worst weather day.

Best newly discovered view: Mildred Point

Most work for the shortest trail segment: biking the Ipsut Creek road and hiking the Northern Loop Trail past Windy Gap to hike the .9 mile Natural Bridge Trail; 27 miles/5200’

“Shame on me that I haven’t been there yet” hike: Tolmie Peak

Easiest trail access: Crystal Mountain Trail…with poor weather, my buddy and I took the gondola up and down instead of doing the planned loop, having lunch and wine whilst watching it snow.

In sum, despite hiking, skiing, biking, running and climbing myriad areas of this park in all seasons over the past 35 years, I continue to discover new wonders every time I venture into the vast wonderland of Mt. Rainier National Park. Click here for individual trip reports

Fall colors on the Comet Falls Trail

Overlooking Spray Park (Spray Park Trail) from the Hessong/Pleasant saddle

Fingal's Cave (Staffa, Scotland)

While on vacation I had the good fortune to visit the small island Staffa off the Isle of Mull, which is entirely of volcanic origin. What makes it unique?….the incredible examples of columnar basalt of varying size, from huge vertical columns sporting a layer of non columnar basalt above to smaller examples epitomized in the small islet of Am Buchaille. This cave and area was an inspiration for Mendelssohn's concert overture "The Hebrides" and popularly known as "Fingal's Cave." William Picher provides the music for this short video, playing both organ and trumpet from his album Te Deum (Suite in D Major, IV March).

Nunatak 3D Quilt (15 Degree)

I recently sold my old but still viable Feathered Friends 20 degree mummy bag and other gear as I try to consolidate. I needed a solid 3+ season bag, but have found that when the temps drop I am not a good candidate for quilts. This was driven home in 2016 on a chilly but not below freezing open bivouac at 7,000 feet on Mt. Rainier. My sleep system for that evening was an Enlightened Equipment 30 degree Enigma quilt, a custom Borah Gear bivy bag (Cuben breathable top/Cuben bottom….before the change to Dyneema Composite Fabrics) and a Thermarest Neo-Air XLite pad. I’m a side sleeper, and the traditional quilt design does not seem to be a good fit for me. Every time I shifted position I would pump cold air into my little world, despite using the straps, buckles and cinching up the top. And yes, I was wearing warm head gear (a balaclava and the EE Hoodlum). In the wee hours I had to don my rain shells in an effort to trap more heat. To be clear I was not cold, I just wasn’t warm. There were no indications of freezing temps in the morning.

Alpenglow from our bivy site, Mt. Rainier

Upon looking at various options for a new bag, I turned to Nunatak for the solution. My past dealings with Jan at Nunatak have been outstanding. I have been packing and wearing my Skaha Apex Pullover since last year and it remains one of my favorite pieces. It’s always in my day pack and ski pack. I was also the “prototype” and launch customer for the Akula Half Bag. As Nunatak continues to improve and develop their designs, I sent my Akula back to have the bivy extension added….such a good idea, why didn’t I think of that? He only charged me $40 for this retrofit. And lastly, I have to point out that these products are meticulously constructed.

So I didn’t want a full mummy, and I didn’t want another quilt. I decided on Nunatak’s 3D Quilt, which fills a niche between these two. Like my EE Enigma the 3D has a closed foot box, and the zipper extends low enough for this piece to function as a quilt. However, when the temperature drops I can zip it all the way up, essentially becoming a mummy bag without the hood. It may seem trivial, but one of the best design aspects is the placement of the cinch cords. My Enigma had one on the interior, so when I cinched that puppy up to try to seal in the heat, I had cord dangling around my face the entire time. The 3D puts two cinch cords on the outside, completely eliminating this annoyance from the draft collar. Plus, I don’t have to “uncinch” to get out, I can simply unzip as is.

In typical Nunatak fashion, the pull down menus allow for numerous customization options. Here’s a rundown on my particulars:

2.75" loft (15 degree option)

Inside Length: 74" - Long

Shoulder Width: 62" minimum in quilt mode.

30" minimum with zipper closed.

Footbox Size: 40" diameter foot end

Shell Fabric: Breathable 15d Ripstop, Black.

WP/B Draft Collar and Foot Section (Robic 7D)

Liner Material: Breathable 10D Taffeta, Black.

Differential Cut:

Integrated Neck Draft Collar with Cord Channel

Zipper: #3 YKK Coil. One way. Inside/outside slider pull.

Dual Draft Tubes Along Zipper

900 Fill Power White Goose Down, Hyper-Dry

Nunatak 3D Quilt in the Zpacks Plexamid

I prefer my bags in black to assist in drying, and opted for the WPB foot and collar options. I also chose the 15D for the fabric for just a tad more durability, as this bag will probably be with me for the duration. And performance? My example here is another open bivy at 7,000 feet on Mt. Rainier. Same bivy bag, same XLite. This time I felt a bit cramped in the bivy as this bag is so much puffier. I was letting my daughter use my other Borah bivy, a roomier and more robust eVent custom job. I again wore my EE Hoodlum for head warmth. In the wee hours my daughter had to wear my Nunatak Skaha to stave off the chill in her Feathered Friends 35 degree Rock Wren, along with most of her clothes. My 3D was zipped up all the way and the draft collar was semi tight, I was wearing minimal layers and my head was outside the bivy. I may have had a little trouble sleeping due to the spotlight in my face the whole night (A.K.A The Moon) but certainly not because I was chilly. So toasty with no cold spots! I believe that Nunatak is conservative in their ratings. And despite frost on my bivy, I had no problems with moisture in this challenging environment (open ridge). I have a history of going minimal and light, including sleep systems (and still do), but sometimes I want the comfort of a full, warm system, in this case hanging out with my daughter.

Superb puffiness of the Nunatak 3D 15 degree Quilt

Nunatak 3D quilt in the stuff sack

My package from Nunatak included the specs of this particular bag, right at 30.1 ozs including stuff sack. My total cost was $555 ($530 plus $25 shipping). This kind of quality doesn’t come cheap, but it’s worth every penny. I have yet to use the 3D in winter temps, but I have a synthetic 40 degree EE quilt which I will use as an over bag if needed. I’ve written this in a prior review of the Skaha concerning Nunatak, but I’ll repeat it here: If you want inexpensive look elsewhere. If you want to order extremely high quality, fully customizable pieces with an astounding number of options and choices, and don't mind excellent customer service from the owner and team that make up Nunatak, then spend the dough and take the plunge. Now here's the disclaimer, I paid full price for this product.

One of the cord locks on the outside of the Nunatak 3D Quilt draft collar

Supplied stow bag for the Nunatak 3D Quilt

MRNP: Huckleberry/Grand Park Loop

Like the East Eastern Loop, the Northern Loop Trail, and the Eastern Loop, this journey is another example of shorter trips in Mt. Rainier National Park that can be a day hike or a multiday, with plenty of places to camp along the way. In my case I made this a one day trip starting at Sunrise.

Huckleberry/Grand Park Loop (26 miles/5500')

Proceeding CW, I hiked the short section westward on the Sourdough Ridge trail until the intersection with the Huckleberry Creek trail. From this high point at 6800 feet the trail drops steadily, eventually exiting the park boundary and terminating at FS Road 73. The Huckleberry Creek trail is another classic in this area, starting above treeline passing Huckleberry Basin, then dropping into old growth forest with bubbling creeks and the picturesque Forest Lake, all the while serenaded by the more substantial Huckleberry Creek. The trail is well maintained, soft and mostly rock and root free. Transiting this forest is surely a reminder that untouched forest is a national treasure, giving the hiker an opportunity to soak in the forest smells and refill water bottles from pristine sources.

Huckleberry/Grand Park elev profile

However, to connect this trail to the Lake Eleanor trail, one must walk a few miles on FS 73. When I did this hike on August 23, the weather turned misty but not rainy, making the steady climb up the road pleasant in its own right. After a few miles you come to the parking area for the Lake Eleanor trail, which reenters the National Park almost immediately. Once past Lake Eleanor the climb continues until eventually entering the anomalous flat land, Grand Park. This mesa is the only flattish expanse in the park, where more erodible material around this lava till isolated this unique formation. Although I transited Grand Park between "color" seasons (missing the bloom of spring flowers or the reds and yellows of fall), Grand Park lives up to its name at any time in any weather. It's truly an experience to walk the length of Grand Park on the well established trail, watching Mt. Rainier grow larger in the field of view. You may think that the show is over as you enter the forest again but more wonders await upon entering lower Berkeley Park. Lodi Creek that flows through here is the icing on the cake. Waterfalls, grasses and flowers abound well into late season, nourished by this continuing flow. Water Ouzels can be seen on occasion dipping for food in the pools along the way. In all my travels in this park over 35 years, the creek through Berkeley ranks as one of the most pristine, epitomizing the alpine meadow environment.

A waterfall on Lodi Creek, approaching Berkeley Park

On this late August day I quickly climbed out of the meadows into another ecozone, surrounded by towering walls with gradually disappearing meadows. The occasional marmot whistle echoed as I climbed to the intersection with the Wonderland Trail, now only a bit over 2 miles to go to return to Sunrise and completing the loop. The late afternoon sun at my back cast a long shadow on the trail ahead, while the winds picked up to the point of donning another layer.

Formations climbing out of Berkeley Park

This 26 mile loop entails 5500 feet of climb and descent, transiting some of the coolest areas of the park through varying ecozones, from below 3000 feet to 6800 feet in elevation. Even the walk on FS 73 was pleasant in its own right, regaining a fair amount of elevation yet easy on the legs. In short, just another North West classic hike in one of our treasures so close to civilization.

Lodi Creek nourishes a constant bloom even late season

Pano of the expanse of Grand Park

Skies reflected in Forest Lake (Huckleberry/Grand Park loop)

Mt. Rainier National Park: East Eastern Loop

There is what is known as the Eastern Loop Trail in MRNP, utilizing the Wonderland Trail over Panhandle Gap, the Owyhigh Lakes Trail and the Eastside Trail. This loop takes one through high alpine and lowland old growth, a gem for sure. A complete description can be found here.

Flower cornucopia next to Dewey Lake

With this in mind, one can complete a loop further east, forging out to the PCT and heading north. The PCT pops in and out of the park boundary along the way, but the majority of this hike is within the confines of Mt. Rainier National Park. This East Eastern Loop has stats similar to the Eastern Loop, with 31 miles and 6,600 feet of elevation gain/loss. I completed this loop on July 28th, experiencing heat, bugs, hail and rain, then sun again. IOW, all the makings of a great trip (I parked at the Stevens Canyon entrance). However, in retrospect I would say this loop is probably best done in the fall, before the early snows hit the upper reaches of the PCT. It suits itself perfectly with its wonderful old growth forest trails, with open views along the PCT above 5500 feet. A fall hike with crisp air, no bugs and late season colors seems especially inviting. This is not to say my summer jaunt was without its rewards. Anytime one is out in the mountains one can expect hindrances to outdoors bliss. In my case it was rather warm (for Washington) temperatures and an abundance of skeeters. However, the wild flowers were a bloomin' and the oppressive heat was mitigated by cool breezes. In my case, approaching 20 miles on my feet, the low point was feeling ill as I climbed out of Dewey Lake towards the high point near 5900 feet above Chinook Pass. The heat was taking its toll. Relief came in the form of sudden hail and rain. While the tourists in T-shirts were scattering (this point is close to the parking area at Chinook Pass), I reveled in the cooler temperatures and made a quick recovery. As soon as I turned on the Eastside trail and headed south, I spent the last 11 miles of the loop in solitude.

Silver Falls trail, part of the East Eastern Loop

Although this loop offers plenty of camping choices, most on the PCT portion and Deer Creek camp on the Eastside trail, the terrain is mild enough to make a most excellent day trip if one has the legs. The Laughingwater Creek trail offers a prime example of old growth forest hiking, gaining altitude on a gentle grade, slowly transitioning to the more alpine environment above 5000 feet. The PCT portion offers views towards the mountain and rolling trail interspersed with lakes, bogs or tarns. And although I found the northern portions of the Eastside trail in sometimes poor shape (blowdowns, rutted sections), the southern portion finds one back in old growth forest with splashing creeks, eventually crossing the Ohanapecosh River and listening to its gentle roaring all the way to your waiting vehicle.

DESCRIPTION: From Stevens Canyon entrance (park at the Grove of the Patriarchs area) proceed across the road to the Silver Falls trail towards Ohanapecosh. Take the Laughingwater Creek trail, crossing Highway 123, to intersect the PCT northbound. Once above Dewey Lake, go left on the Naches Loop trail (still signed as the PCT) until reaching Chinook Pass, then go left on the Eastside trail, which will take you back to your waiting vehicle.

3 Lakes, on the Laughingwater Creek trail

Avalanche lilies in bloom along the PCT

Outdated sign; the PCT pops in and out of MRNP heading north

Zion National Park

In the Narrows (Zion)

I like my solitude; going all day with no other person in sight allows for introspection and contemplation. Moments of peace and calm wash over and through me as I take in my surrounding's sights and smells. But you gotta be flexible, and all that solitude yak goes out the window in Zion. A relatively small national park, the canyon is hemmed in by sheer towering walls, cramming the visitors onto the canyon floor where the Virgin River continues its ongoing trenching. In 2017 Zion had 4.5 million visitors (compared to my stomping ground Mt. Rainier National Park, which saw 2 million). When my daughter and I were there for a weekend (July 6-8) sometimes it seemed like there were that many currently on the trails....but probably only hundreds. Now that I've set the lack of solitude tone, I'll say that the compensation comes in spades by the ever present vast visual palette.

One of the Emerald Pools (Zion National Park)

Tromping on any trail, the scenery changed constantly in a most spectacular fashion. The varying colors of the sandstone pop in direct and reflected light. The layers and etchings form lines of symmetry and chaos simultaneously. Whether looking down or craning your neck up to take in the lofty barriers, a craving for solitude is mitigated by this awesomeness of ocular overload, present even when raining. No wonder 4.5 million visitors came here in 2017.

Angel's Landing warning sign

The park seems to handle this well, with regular shuttle service to all the stops on the narrow canyon road, which surely would be unmanageable were cars allowed in. My daughter and I took advantage of these and the free town shuttles to the entrance to make forays into the park both early and late (the last park shuttle is 9:15 PM, town shuttle 10). Originally we were there with permit in hand for the 16 mile top to bottom Narrows hike. But it's monsoon season; afternoon thunderstorms and a "possible" flash flood advisory along with overcast skies at 5:00 AM had us change our plans to the much safer Angel's Landing hike, where only 6 people have plunged to their demise since 2004. Yeah. However, I was surprised to find out later that more deaths (7) have occurred on the seemingly innocuous Emerald Pools trail, which we did on Friday night.

NOTE: 3 days after our visit Zion saw 3 inches of rain in 3 hours, creating flash floods, rock and mud slides and closures of various trails and trail heads, including Highway 9

My daughter on top of Angel's Landing; 1400' feet down on all sides

I'm not a fan of exposed heights, but the start of Angel's Landing skirts a wide fin and doesn't look so bad, especially with chain rails in place. Once around the corner, though, I looked up at the route on a narrow and steep looking fin and thought, "Are you effing kidding me?" However, my daughter gave no hint of retreating and the hundreds of kids, older ones and tourists on route somewhat bolstered my confidence (shame is a powerful motivator); I set off with my daughter in tow to brave the thousand foot drops on either side. With concentration on foot and handwork my queasiness subsided and soon enough (despite the traffic jams) we found ourselves up top on the "plateau". Rain and wind started shortly thereafter, so we departed for the descent, the airiness magnified on the return. By now I was accustomed to the environment and we finished up just when the clouds parted and the sun boosted the temperature towards that day's high of 102 degrees.

We left all the people behind as we continued up the West Rim trail this Saturday, afterwards returning to the park in the evening to cooler temps, refreshing rain and lower elevation hiking. Combined with our Friday evening sojourns and my daughter's earlier Narrows hike, our interest was piqued enough to plan a return visit, adding to the 4 million plus that will clog the trails next year. We're good with that.

Descending "Walter's Wiggles" (Zion)

Powerful stone cutter: the Virgin River

On the West Rim trail

Wonderland Trail Outlook: 2018

The CPC outlook for May-June-July (MJJ) is indicating a warmer and drier than normal 3-month average for the entire state. The temperature outlook is calling for warmer than normal temperatures for the state, with slightly higher chances of above normal temperatures in southwestern WA. For precipitation, there are higher than normal chances of below normal precipitation statewide for May-July.      (Office of the Washington State Climatologist)

Continuous snow in Moraine Park above 5100' (june 6, 2018)

Snow levels above 5000 feet were robust this year, often accumulating when lower elevations were experiencing rain and warmer temperatures. With this in mind I have made forays into Mt. Rainier National Park to scope out conditions these past two weeks and will offer an opinion on Wonderland Trail snow conditions for 2018. First hand observations; once passing the 5000' level, there's lots of snow still in them thar hills.

On May 24th I biked the West Side Road and scoped out Klapatche Park, a backcountry camp that resides at 5500'. I encountered some snow at Round Pass (4000'), which required a short bike push, but this is assuredly melted by now. What I did find, hiking the St. Andrews Creek trail, was the predicted snow line right at 5100'. Clear 'til then, then pretty much continuous snow all the way to the camp. Neither the logs nor the sign was visible next to Aurora Lake, and snow levels in the camp varied from less than a foot to more than 6'. Clad in trail shoes, I encountered no serious post holing, although I did sink consistently above ankle height (no gaiters).

Klapatche Park (5500') and Aurora Lake (May 24, 2018)

Klapatche Park (5500') and Aurora Lake (June 9, 2015)

On June 6th I biked the Ipsut Creek trail and proceeded on the Wonderland to Moraine Park at 5700'. Maintenance is just starting, with the 3 person crew hard at work for this part of the mountain. Luckily, they had established a log to cross the Carbon River so I was able to continue up the trail past the Carbon Glacier terminus. No surprise, I encountered continuous snow just above 5100'. Levels varied but in some cases the depth far exceeded 6'. Once I hit the open meadow below Mystic Pass, the snow thinned considerably and I even had lunch on an exposed knoll and rock. On this trek the snow was consolidated enough to stride mostly on top, with only about 4 post holes on the descent later in the afternoon; again, trail runners with no gaiters. I did have to go feet wet on the return leg at Dick Creek due to the creek wandering around the end of the bridge, but the maintenance crews will probably deal with this before thru hikers start doin' their thing.

Moraine Park, June 6, 2018

Moraine Park, June 9, 2015

2015 was a low snow year and I hiked the west 57 miles on June 9th and 10th, providing the comparison photos above for contrast.

On June 10th I visited Summerland on a "Junuary" weekend, meaning rain, snow, occasional sun breaks and temps in the 40's. Snow started above 4800' and was continuous above the bridge at Fryingpan creek. Although we attempted to follow the summer trail up the switchbacks, steep runouts with lots of snow coverage dictated a descent via what I call the winter route, essentially end running the switchbacks by heading towards the creek right out of Summerland, then paralleling the creek until regaining the bridge. The weather was such that continuing on to Panhandle Gap, all on snow and climbing into cloud, seemed fruitless....needless to say there's still considerable snow coverage to the Gap and beyond.

Fresh snow added more than 4 inches to the already considerable coverage: crossing Fryingpan Creek

Fresh tracks end running the switchbacks, descending from Summerland (5900'), June 10, 2018

EDIT (June 24)   On this beautiful Sunday I biked the length of the West Side Road and hiked to Golden Lakes via the North Puyallup River Trail and the Wonderland. Silver Forest (about 1.5 miles to Golden Lakes) was snow free, but as soon as we entered the woods again there were significant stretches of snow remaining, varying in depth but sometimes over 4 feet. However, at least in this part of the trail, there was no detriment to navigation. The Wonderland thru-hiker couple I ran into had bypassed Klapatche Park, descending to the West Side Road from the South Puyallup River camp and hiking the same route I took to the North Puyallup River Camp, where I ran into them and accompanied them to Golden Lakes. Looks like it will be well into July before snow becomes a minor factor in hiking the trail.

Typical snow levels between Silver Forest and Golden Lakes (6/24/18)

Snow at Golden Lakes Patrol Cabin (6/24/18)

So early season hikers, meaning June and well into July, can expect varying levels of snow in the higher elevations of the trail. Consolidation is well under way, so forget the snow shoes (some may opt to pack some manner of microspikes and even an ice axe); your regular footwear should suffice. However, continued warm weather, as the CPC outlook indicates, will help the melt off considerably, especially if we don't encounter "Junuary." IOW, pretty much a normal year. I'm planning a fastpack of the Wonderland in late August or early September, so please say hi! Happy Hiking!

DISCLAIMER: Always check with the NPS and/or visit the website for current conditions. What works for me may not work for you, so always pack for your comfort level and experience. Lastly, don't hesitate to contact me if you have specific questions about the Wonderland Trail if you think my input may help you.

Snow in forested sections can offer navigation difficulties (Wonderland Trail to Summerland, 4800', June 10, 2018))

Plexamid: Zpacks Newest Solo Single Pole Tent

I just took delivery of the up and coming Zpacks single person/single pole tent. I believe Joe is going to make this available within a matter of weeks so I've started this post, which I will update regularly, for those in the market. This is tent #2, so there may be changes on the retail version. Tent #1 came in at 14.5 ozs/411 grams. This weight includes the tent, lines and stuff sack, but stakes and pole are not included. Although I don't own a gram scale, Joe says mine should be in the same ballpark. EDIT: My latest correspondence with Joe (6/14/18) has led me to make a few corrections in this post, one being the name: Plexamid it is. Also, the latest weight specs are 14.8 ozs in the stuff sack.

Plexamid fully closed overlapping vestibule doors

I own one of the original Duplexs also, and was in the market for a single person tent and have been researching options for about 6 months. I couldn't quite bring myself to buy the SolPlex as I wasn't crazy about the shorter pole in the rear. When I heard the Plexamid was in the works, I contacted Joe about getting a prototype. I paid $449 for this tent, which I believe will be a $100 discount for the upcoming retail version, as $549 seems in line with Zpacks' other offerings. This price, however, is only a guess....it may well be cheaper. EDIT: The Plexamid is now listed on Zpacks site for sale, indeed at $549.

Plexamid: 14.8 ozs incl stuff sack.

Plexamid profile

Initial impressions are good. This tent is light to the point of me considering ditching my usual tarp and bivy combo, which, depending on the selection, weighs about the same or more than the Plexamid. Sit up room seems on par with the Duplex. At 6' I don't come close to touching the sides of the tent. The advantage over a tarp/bivy combo at the same weight: a fully enclosed shelter with a roomy vestibule, bathtub floor and full netting door. My initial pitch (no instructions of course) used a pole from my Duplex at 48 inches; at first I thought perhaps the pole height should be higher because the rear bathtub floor was rather flat and I had the rear of the tent pitched close to the ground, but Joe says 48 inches is what it is designed for and I should tilt the front of the tent to raise the rear end, creating more space between the tent and ground.  I will dial in the setup before taking it out on an overnight.

To create more room, the Plexamid uses a sturdy rectangular patch reinforced with fiberglass rods, creating about a 12 inch spreader at the peak. 

The pole goes in the center, allowing the tent to overhang the netting door, probably allowing the tent to be fully open in non wind driven rain with no incursion. I like this design element, creating just enough head space where I can sit up without encroaching on the roof before it slopes down in the rear. It looks like one should position oneself close to the door, using the adjacent space towards the rear as storage for other items. The overlapping vestibule doors will keep wind driven rain at bay so one doesn't have to scooch towards the rear of the tent. Of course, I am basing this off design elements, not actual usage in poor weather.

Plexamid has good sit up room (I am 6'). Note zipper door is closed.

Me being 6 feet tall, I find the tent provides good head and foot room, plus it's wide enough to put clothing and other items inside the tent. The vestibule looks to be the size of a Duplex, so plenty of room for shoes and pack. My only con so far is the number of stakes it requires....6 for the corners and front/back, plus 4 more tie outs on the sides and ends. The Plexamid comes with line locks on every line with plenty of play to position stakes with some leeway, plus the line is reflective. Years ago I called the Duplex "the best 2 person tent for backpacking." This new offering from Zpacks looks like a solo contender for many of the same reasons. Clearly the crew at Zpacks has taken the best design elements of the Plex and Hexamid tents to create this single pole solo tent; the materials, the vestibule closures, the bathtub floor and netting door....with years of experience manufacturing with Dyneema Composite Fabrics of various weights, Zpacks has built on its expertise to create this natural evolution in its solo tent design. I look forward to using it in my various outings this season and beyond.

12 inch spreader patch (outside) on the Plexamid

Overlapping vestibule hook attachment

Plexamid tie out reinforcements

Plexamid mesh pocket on entry side

Plexamid profile view with vestibule deployed

Plexamid with XLite and 6' stretched out burly model

Well folks, here it is two years later….November 25, 2020….and I have yet to use this tent. In fact, during this time I have yet to use A tent, with the exception of the one provided when my daughter and I did the Inca Trail. All of my hikes have either been one day or I’ve used a bivy bag for the overnights, including the overnights my daughter and I did this year in Sequoia (4 days) and Yosemite (3 days). I purchased this tent preparing for retirement, as surely I would need a light one person tent for a multi day trip….where a bivy setup would not be appropriate. Hasn’t happened yet. By now there must be reviews of the Plexamid on the netherweb by people who have actually used it. As stated in the beginning of this article, I was merely showing what the tent looked like and provided some pics and thoughts on its release. Happy hiking!

Olympic Peninsula Bike Orbit: Apr 22-25

Selfies at Ruby Beach, Day 2

I thought I'd kick off this season with a bike trip, so convinced a buddy of mine to join me on this orbit. The west side of the Peninsula dictated a couple of century days, made longer by the closure of Highway 101, adding 14 miles to day 2, and a reroute for safety on day 3, adding 16 miles. The last day was thankfully short at 47 miles, as I was suffering from a static crash on day 3 when starting out clipped in; I slid on some gravel in the turn and took the brunt of the fall on my left side and knee. I was also dealing with saddle sores, a first for me. Luckily Lars was a strong rider with a positive attitude, making this trip a pleasure for both of us.

Salsa Cutthroat in hotel room

Our bikes were packed for lodging overnights, carrying not only the clothes and accoutrements for hotels but more extensive repair and medical kits; the west side is far from any kind of easy assistance. These more weighty steeds of course had an impact on our climbing and overall speed, but we still managed over 350 miles to make the 1:30 ferry on day 4. We totally lucked out on the weather with a high pressure system sitting over the PNW, providing clear skies and unseasonably warm weather. Although there were areas of lovely scenery and tranquil riding, so much of the transit dealt with varying road shoulders and speeding trucks, RVs and other vehicles that we cannot really recommend this ride due to the road hazards, at least not in our iteration. Please enjoy the video chronicle of this interesting outing below, and be safe out there!

STATS: Day 1 - 75 miles/4000'//Day 2: 112 miles/5600'//Day 3: 118 miles/3500'//Day 4: 47 miles/2300'

TOTAL: 353 miles/15,400'